Its finally here!

[Lostchain]

So this is worth some serious cash?
If I sell it do I have to split it with Bill Sands, aka Mr Globe Trekker?

Did that one actually come with a winch truck? It doesn't look like a Skookum model 62 which is what I have heard other people say is what would have come with a winch truck.

As to how much it is worth, I have no idea, however if you do want to sell please let me know what you are asking.

 

[MrMikey4026]

As far as I know, yes. It came with the winch when I bought it. For the right price I would sell it, comes with a truck also.

 

[coachgeo]

So this is worth some serious cash?
If I sell it do I have to split it with Bill Sands, aka Mr Globe Trekker?

or pass the unexpected good fortune on forward at a reasonable or awesome price

 

[Third From Texas]

My hunt only revealed part numbers, but not diagrams or anything? Maybe I looked in the wrong place? My interest in the accessories is just to know (for example) what an official winch truck snatch block looks like, so even if some website fudges the NSN of their product, I would know if it’s the correct one. I would like to get the period correct accessories to try to keep the truck as original as possible.

The basic kit is just a red box that contains the (folding) emergency roadside triangle, a lug wrench, and a gladhand hose with a tire chuck on one end. That's the most intact kit that I've ever gotten on an M1078, but there could be more to it.

The winch trucks gets a few other goodies, extra shackles, a Skookum 62 (not what is pictured above in the thread but the link below), etc.. Skookums are expensive but worth it if you have a 20,000# winch.

Skookum 62 Snatch Block - 1918000 for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Skookum 62 Snatch Block - 1918000 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[Green Mountain Boys]

The basic kit is just a red box that contains the (folding) emergency roadside triangle, a lug wrench, and a gladhand hose with a tire chuck on one end. That's the most intact kit that I've ever gotten on an M1078, but there could be more to it.

The winch trucks gets a few other goodies, extra shackles, a Skookum 62 (not what is pictured above in the thread but the link below), etc.. Skookums are expensive but worth it if you have a 20,000# winch.

Skookum 62 Snatch Block - 1918000 for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Skookum 62 Snatch Block - 1918000 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

My truck is a 1998 M1078 winch truck and unlike most of the trucks that show up at auction it was in exceptionally good condition. The truck appeared to be largely unused at all. The truck had the folding emergency triangles still in the original packaging, the lug wrench, the air hose, a hydraulic bottle jack (new and unused), a shiny new fire extinguisher mounted on the right seat but sadly I did not get a Skookum 62. I cannot remember if there was anything else, it has been a while. The winch on the truck appeared to have never been used at all. The cable was perfectly rolled on the drum and heavily coated with old grease. No signs of wear anywhere or even scratched paint on the fairlead. There were plenty of shackles too. I cannot remember how many. I did buy a heavy duty Crosby block to keep on the truck. I have a pretty good assortment of rigging gear in my shop when needed.

 

[Third From Texas]

My truck is a 1998 M1078 winch truck and unlike most of the trucks that show up at auction it was in exceptionally good condition. The truck appeared to be largely unused at all. The truck had the folding emergency triangles still in the original packaging, the lug wrench, the air hose, a hydraulic bottle jack (new and unused), a shiny new fire extinguisher mounted on the right seat but sadly I did not get a Skookum 62. I cannot remember if there was anything else, it has been a while. The winch on the truck appeared to have never been used at all. The cable was perfectly rolled on the drum and heavily coated with old grease. No signs of wear anywhere or even scratched paint on the fairlead. There were plenty of shackles too. I cannot remember how many. I did buy a heavy duty Crosby block to keep on the truck. I have a pretty good assortment of rigging gear in my shop when needed.

Ah, I forgot about the bottle jack.

I upgraded mine to a 20 ton HF pneumatic (overkill). I'm lazy like that.

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[Lostchain]

My truck is a 1998 M1078 winch truck and unlike most of the trucks that show up at auction it was in exceptionally good condition. The truck appeared to be largely unused at all. The truck had the folding emergency triangles still in the original packaging, the lug wrench, the air hose, a hydraulic bottle jack (new and unused), a shiny new fire extinguisher mounted on the right seat but sadly I did not get a Skookum 62. I cannot remember if there was anything else, it has been a while. The winch on the truck appeared to have never been used at all. The cable was perfectly rolled on the drum and heavily coated with old grease. No signs of wear anywhere or even scratched paint on the fairlead. There were plenty of shackles too. I cannot remember how many. I did buy a heavy duty Crosby block to keep on the truck. I have a pretty good assortment of rigging gear in my shop when needed.

Skookum 960210 70 ton double snatch block 3/4" wire rope W/clevis NEW | eBay

70 TON MILITARY WRECKER.

www.ebay.com

Check out this double snatch block. So here is a question, since the 7th layer pull of my SRW is only like 6k, what if i went from the winch to this guy, then back to another snatch block on the drivers side shackle, then back to this double snatch and finally to my passenger side shackle.

would that pretty much drag me out of anything?

 

[Green Mountain Boys]

Skookum 960210 70 ton double snatch block 3/4" wire rope W/clevis NEW | eBay

70 TON MILITARY WRECKER.

www.ebay.com

Check out this double snatch block. So here is a question, since the 7th layer pull of my SRW is only like 6k, what if i went from the winch to this guy, then back to another snatch block on the drivers side shackle, then back to this double snatch and finally to my passenger side shackle.

would that pretty much drag me out of anything?

There is a whole lot of science behind proper rigging gear and technique. There are whole books written on the subject. I have had a career in the rigging field. Most of the work I have done required unknown load weight so estimating loads, friction and safety factors were key to not having surprises. Early in my career, my best friend was killed in a rigging accident on his job site. His nickname was Mr. Safety. Safety means learning and following all the rules even when inconvenient. Here are a few of my tips.

1. Try to have your sheave(s) the same size as your cable or rope. Proper sheave size reduces wear and damage to your cable or rope. The item you liked to is 3/4". Is your cable 3/4"? If you use a 7/16" cable in this 3/4" sheave and pull hard, you will flatten the cable in the sheave and cause extra wear to your cable and premature failure.
2. If you are using 2 double sheave pulleys I like to have 1 pulley have a tail hook. This pulley is attached to the load being moved.
https://buckinghammfg.com/products/...6VQvLSi0m7CnC4wyu4zP34_IlB6LuhNhoCYu0QAvD_BwE
3. Keep all of your lines as parallel as possible to maximize mechanical advantage.
4. If you plan to use double pulleys make sure you have enough cable. You will need at least 4 times as much.
5. Always minimize bend radius. Cables and ropes do not like sharp bends. Large diameter sheaves will reduce damage to your cable or rope. If you tie a knot in a rope choose knots with minimum bend radius. Example, clove hitch instead of bowline knot. Make sure the knot is appropriate for the use. You cannot use a clove hitch in all applications.
6. I always do what I can to first minimize friction for the most efficient pull.
7. Learn the difference between force multiplication and force redirect. This is often misunderstood and this can cause a lot of headaches.
8. Make sure you know the working load limit (WLL) of all the components and do not exceed the lowest component in your system. You should just forget about the breaking strength. I try to never even get that number into my head. Most quality manufacturers will engrave WLL on the product.
9. When using your winch, it is always a good idea to use as much cable as possible to avoid pulling hard on a full drum of cable. As you pointed out, the full drum is least efficient. If I cannot find an anchor point far enough away I will sometimes use a double sheave pulley just to get more cable of the winch drum while I am pulling.
10. If you are buying cable for your winch consider swaged or double swaged cable. It is well worth the extra cost.

There are quite a few instructional videos on YOUTUBE that are very good.

The self recovery winch on the LMTV is easily capable dragging the truck across flat, dry pavement in a double line configuration. In your scenario, I would suggest finding an anchor point farther away so you are not pulling on the 7th layer of cable. If that is not possible, use pulleys as force multipliers and/or redirects to use more cable for a more efficient pull. If you are trying to pull out your stuck truck you have a 4 to 1 system as you described. So 4 times 6,000lbs is 24,000 lbs minus friction and inefficiency of the system.
Will it get you out? Maybe
Is there a better way of doing it? Yes

 

[Mullaney]

There is a whole lot of science behind proper rigging gear and technique. There are whole books written on the subject. I have had a career in the rigging field. Most of the work I have done required unknown load weight so estimating loads, friction and safety factors were key to not having surprises. Early in my career, my best friend was killed in a rigging accident on his job site. His nickname was Mr. Safety. Safety means learning and following all the rules even when inconvenient. Here are a few of my tips.

1. Try to have your sheave(s) the same size as your cable or rope. Proper sheave size reduces wear and damage to your cable or rope. The item you liked to is 3/4". Is your cable 3/4"? If you use a 7/16" cable in this 3/4" sheave and pull hard, you will flatten the cable in the sheave and cause extra wear to your cable and premature failure.
2. If you are using 2 double sheave pulleys I like to have 1 pulley have a tail hook. This pulley is attached to the load being moved.
https://buckinghammfg.com/products/...6VQvLSi0m7CnC4wyu4zP34_IlB6LuhNhoCYu0QAvD_BwE
3. Keep all of your lines as parallel as possible to maximize mechanical advantage.
4. If you plan to use double pulleys make sure you have enough cable. You will need at least 4 times as much.
5. Always minimize bend radius. Cables and ropes do not like sharp bends. Large diameter sheaves will reduce damage to your cable or rope. If you tie a knot in a rope choose knots with minimum bend radius. Example, clove hitch instead of bowline knot. Make sure the knot is appropriate for the use. You cannot use a clove hitch in all applications.
6. I always do what I can to first minimize friction for the most efficient pull.
7. Learn the difference between force multiplication and force redirect. This is often misunderstood and this can cause a lot of headaches.
8. Make sure you know the working load limit (WLL) of all the components and do not exceed the lowest component in your system. You should just forget about the breaking strength. I try to never even get that number into my head. Most quality manufacturers will engrave WLL on the product.
9. When using your winch, it is always a good idea to use as much cable as possible to avoid pulling hard on a full drum of cable. As you pointed out, the full drum is least efficient. If I cannot find an anchor point far enough away I will sometimes use a double sheave pulley just to get more cable of the winch drum while I am pulling.
10. If you are buying cable for your winch consider swaged or double swaged cable. It is well worth the extra cost.

There are quite a few instructional videos on YOUTUBE that are very good.

The self recovery winch on the LMTV is easily capable dragging the truck across flat, dry pavement in a double line configuration. In your scenario, I would suggest finding an anchor point farther away so you are not pulling on the 7th layer of cable. If that is not possible, use pulleys as force multipliers and/or redirects to use more cable for a more efficient pull. If you are trying to pull out your stuck truck you have a 4 to 1 system as you described. So 4 times 6,000lbs is 24,000 lbs minus friction and inefficiency of the system.
Will it get you out? Maybe
Is there a better way of doing it? Yes

.
An awful lot of truth in your post above @Green Mountain Boys !

 

[Lostchain]

There is a whole lot of science behind proper rigging gear and technique. There are whole books written on the subject. I have had a career in the rigging field. Most of the work I have done required unknown load weight so estimating loads, friction and safety factors were key to not having surprises. Early in my career, my best friend was killed in a rigging accident on his job site. His nickname was Mr. Safety. Safety means learning and following all the rules even when inconvenient. Here are a few of my tips.

This LMTV is the first vehicle with a winch I have ever owned, so I have a lot to learn. I really appreciate all the tips and information you shared, thanks for taking the time to post that. On the subject of safety, Do you think it would make sense to add a remote control to the SRW winch when using it for things like recovering other vehicles, or dragging loads? It seems like sitting in the drivers seat puts you right in the firing line if something breaks and snaps back at the truck.

 

[Green Mountain Boys]

This LMTV is the first vehicle with a winch I have ever owned, so I have a lot to learn. I really appreciate all the tips and information you shared, thanks for taking the time to post that. On the subject of safety, Do you think it would make sense to add a remote control to the SRW winch when using it for things like recovering other vehicles, or dragging loads? It seems like sitting in the drivers seat puts you right in the firing line if something breaks and snaps back at the truck.

If you have a failure that injures you while sitting in the drivers seat then you have made quite a few mistakes before you began the pull. A remote is not the answer. Prevent the accident before it happens.

If your equipment is in good condition and all of your components are within working load limits then you will not break things and bad things will not happen. The working load limit of rigging gear factors in a safety margin relative to breaking strength. If you are concerned about breaking a cable or gear you should STOP and redesign the system correctly. You can also put a heavy tarp, blanket, or jackets on top of the cables for added safety. If something breaks, the fabric absorbs the impact and not your windshield, or worse, your head. I have rigged or supervised the rigging of tens of thousands of different lifts or pulls. I cannot ever remember having a rigging equipment failure. Certainly not one of any importance. I say that not to brag or boast, but to show how using the proper gear, inspecting the gear, and taking care of your gear will pay you back in the form of not damaging equipment or people.

Working load limit is written on most quality equipment. If you do not know the WLL and the item is steel it should be 25% of breaking strength. If it is aluminum it should have WLL imprinted in the metal. If it does not then you should not use it at all. Too much risk. If you are using rope, WLL is no more than 10% of breaking strength. Knots tied in rope with sharp bends like a bowline knot will reduce a rope's breaking strength by up to 50%. Natural fiber rope is not common anymore but NEVER use natural fiber rope for anything other than decoration! Inspect your gear. If you do not know how to inspect rope there are videos on youtube.com. Find one posted by someone who uses rope like their life depends on it like a technical rock climber or equivalent. For cable inspection the TM has all that spelled out for you. Any gear that fails inspection gets destroyed so no one can ever use it.

I would suggest, since this is your first winch, you set up and practice rigging and pulling situations. You will learn a whole lot by practicing.

 

[Mullaney]

This LMTV is the first vehicle with a winch I have ever owned, so I have a lot to learn. I really appreciate all the tips and information you shared, thanks for taking the time to post that. On the subject of safety, Do you think it would make sense to add a remote control to the SRW winch when using it for things like recovering other vehicles, or dragging loads? It seems like sitting in the drivers seat puts you right in the firing line if something breaks and snaps back at the truck.

.
There are things better than a remote. There are blankets made for winching that "tame the cable" if it snaps. Not having extra chunks of metal flying through the air when the cable heads in your direction. Maintaining and be willing to dump your rusty looking cable for new cable is smart. Properly swaged cable is better than something secured with crosby clamps too.

Have to remember too that you are fairly high in the air above the winch. That helps too. That creaking and groaning sound is trying to tell you something too if you pay attention to it.

When a cable snaps, it almost makes a whistling sound as if flys through the air. Remember that the blankets has only one goal and that is to help drive it to the ground faster.