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Joined the club with an 18,000lb paperweight this week.

snowtrac nome

snowtrac nome

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If your system sucks in air within a few hours after shutting down the engine the leak is in the suction side of the injectors if you find it sucks air over night the leak is in the return hose. I know this sounds stupid but I got the info from a bus mechanic while trying to find my leak I had replaced everything in my suction side , than replaced the return line it fixed it.
 
themeec

themeec

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Boise, ID
Lines appear to be in great shape, so we're good there. Got some professional help from a Cat mechanic, and he noticed right away the primer assembly wasn't working properly (nothing like experience, whoulda thunk), so looks that's the source of the fuel bottleneck in the system.

However, after monkeying with the fuses on my end, checking to make sure nothings blown and voltage is all good, it seems that the start button won't crank the engine anymore.

This begs the question: Since the fuse panel was the last thing I touched, I'm guessing it's something there. Is there a trick to reseating the fuses, or something I might have toggled on/off on accident while digging around in there?
 
coachgeo

coachgeo

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themeec said:
...However, after monkeying with the fuses on my end, checking to make sure nothings blown and voltage is all good, it seems that the start button won't crank the engine anymore.

This begs the question: Since the fuse panel was the last thing I touched, I'm guessing it's something there. Is there a trick to reseating the fuses, or something I might have toggled on/off on accident while digging around in there?
Click to expand...
if you pushed the start defeat/inhibit button.... then it wont start till you turn off the power switch for a second or two... before turning it back on. This cancels the defeat/inhibit switch.
 
themeec

themeec

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coachgeo said:
if you pushed the start defeat/inhibit button.... then it wont start till you turn off the power switch for a second or two... before turning it back on. This cancels the defeat/inhibit switch.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I hit it and flicked the master power a few times to see if it was resetting properly. I left the master power off for quite a while, and it still didn't flicker when I tried to start it again. Is there a test to ensure the inhibit switch is operating correctly?
 
themeec

themeec

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Went back out to the yard today to double-check for any loose breakers/fuses. Nothing too unusual, the covers came off of some of them when trying to pull them out, but they appeared to be good. Tried cycling the master power/start inhibit to see if I could hear any issues. Seemed to click on/off normally.
IMG_2637.jpgIMG_2639.jpg

Now, correct me if I'm wrong, but the Start Inhibit is only supposed to prevent the motor from starting ... not disabling the starter entirely, right?

For another dumb question, this thing doesn't need any air to start either, correct? I only ask because the thing is completely out of air from sitting by now. In addition to that, a misread of the diagram in the TM, initially inspired me to remove this component when hunting for the fuel solenoid. Unsure what it does, so perhaps an improper reinstall might have affected something?
IMG_2623.jpg

Just pointing out everything I can, since I find it incredibly suspicious that the starter suddenly won't turn after all this.
 
Asymair95

Asymair95

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Tucson, AZ
Start inhibit just prevents the fuel s/o valve from opening

no air is required to start

you need to change all the relays out with new, as well as replace cb’s with standard auto fuses
 
themeec

themeec

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Boise, ID
Asymair95 said:
Start inhibit just prevents the fuel s/o valve from opening
no air is required to start
you need to change all the relays out with new, as well as replace cb’s with standard auto fuses
Click to expand...
Figured as much on the inhib and air issue. Thanks for the confirmation.

Makes sense on swapping out all the old relays. Got a link to the kind of auto fuse I should be looking for, or any old 24 volt (or 12 as required) will do?
 
themeec

themeec

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Boise, ID
So, overdue for an update here. Did a bit more digging, but work at my job was starting to pick up, so decided that since I'd pinpointed most of the trouble spots, I'd turn it over to the pros, since time was scarce on my end. A spa day to the diesel shop down the road yielded quick results. Corroded starter solenoid, a few bits of rubbery diesel gunk that escaped my cleaning efforts, and she was in order right away.

InkedIMG_2642_LI.jpg

Had them give the air system a thorough inspection, which something I planned on doing anyway for safety's sake, and everything came out aces. Plates, title, registration, and insurance all handled shortly after easy as you please (hell yeah Idaho), and everything's in order.

IMG_2655.JPG

... and with that, gents ... I got the disease. Even my dog approves.

IMG_20191214_164902.jpg
 
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themeec

themeec

Active member
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Location
Boise, ID
Been enjoying taking it out in the desert lately, just stretching its legs, and working the kinks out. Water temp gauge was spazzing out briefly, but fixed the wiring and it seems to be behaving now.

IMG_2680.JPG

Just been working through the small improvements for now. By the way, if anyone happens to have:
- Window crank knob
- Tan LED front turn signal
For sale ... let me know, I'm buying!

On a side note, ideas on how to install the rear plate without a bunch of drilling would be nice. Been trying to think of a nice, clean way to get that on there.
 
m1010plowboy

m1010plowboy

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Edmonton, Canada
Funny looking sand! It looks like home.
That is such a nice truck. I got to play with one that had right hand drive and the owner took it across the continent. They seem to run forever with a little maintenance. You're in for some adventures. We'll be opening up a little museum about 3 hours north of the border in Alsask Saskatchewan. We're on an old American/Canadian Military base so come up and get some pics at the dome.
 
themeec

themeec

Active member
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Location
Boise, ID
Been taking it out every, to every other weekend to try and root out any issues that weren't obvious on immediate inspection, and everything has been holding tight. Only gripe is the right cotter pin to the cab cradle likes to walk out if you get too frisky, so looking into some remedies for that, but otherwise been great so far. (... and if anyone has a window crank knob I could still use that!)
 

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MrMikey4026

MrMikey4026

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Location
Eatonville Washington
themeec said:
Been taking it out every, to every other weekend to try and root out any issues that weren't obvious on immediate inspection, and everything has been holding tight. Only gripe is the right cotter pin to the cab cradle likes to walk out if you get too frisky, so looking into some remedies for that, but otherwise been great so far. (... and if anyone has a window crank knob I could still use that!)
Click to expand...
I used window cranks for a 2005 Sterling Supercargo (SC8000), from Freightliner. Cost about 13$ each.
 
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