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Jumping a "Deuce"

nattieleather

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The last one is the old style slave cable only in very good condition. That is how they are supose to look with the cap on it. Keeps the pins clean. But over time they get broken off and that is why we see so many like the one pictured above it.
 

emr

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Those old style bi pin shelter cables work just fine as a long jumper cable, and that last pic is the holy grail of jumpers, the correct one.I have one of each and i will die with them!!! Randy
 

emr

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Oh, i could use one end cap only.not the whole end, for the old style shelter cable, so i would buy one if U or somebody has one laying around ? Randy
 

Barrman

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I will try to remember a picture tonight. The slave cable I got from Sermis had an individual wire for positive and negative. One of them was cut apart about the middle of the 25' length.

I cut off the frayed ends and installed welding lead connectors to splice the wire back together. I didn't count, but I imagine I cut 15-20 individual strands of very fine braided wire inside the the cable. I only lost about a foot of total length with the fix.

Has anybody pulled a 2 pin slave recepticle apart and replaced bad wires right at the back of the plug? If so, how did you get it apart?

Thanks.
 

Swede

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with the size of those cables you could go to a 100' and not worry about voltage drop.
voltage drop is usaually started at 50'. but like I stated the guage of that wire no need to worry about voltage drop.

I would like to have a set of slaves for my 1028 CUCV... lol
 

cranetruck

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For size 2 cable you will drop 2 volts with a 500 amp draw at 50 ft.....I think I did it right. That's with perfect connections. I suppose that's not much to worry about, but it all adds up. BTW the slave cable connectors are only rated at 245 amps, so on a cold winter day, it is important to keep oil at low viscosity, cables short and batteries in fully charged condition.
For the complete circuit there is actually 100 ft of cable, stick a voltmeter on the starter solenoid and run a test if you have the cables and the time.
 

acetomatoco

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I believe the slave receptical is on the RIGHT side of the cab on Deuces. Over the battery box. It was a standalone option (MWO) or part of a winterization kit. Many deuces have a blank plate over the area where it mounts and the punchouts in the cab floor have not been removed. Be sure to grommet the holes when you put you kit in....There is a nice slaving article in the PS mag reprints which appear in the header of these forums from time to time...archives..
 

Barrman

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Giddings, Texas
Here is the picture I promised. Welding lead connector used to fix a cut wire. Also in the picture is the frayed strands that I cut off to make the connectors fit. I had both sides of the cut in one pile, so I still didn't count the number of strands. But, you can tell there is a lot of small wires inside a slave cable.
 

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Lax

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Upstate New York
Can anyone give me any advise on how to jump start my Duce with one battery charger (12V) and or two cars. Also 12V. I have been charging the Duce batteries for two days with no luck. The charger tells me the batteries are 100% charged but when I try to start it the engine turns over about two or three times and then the batteries die. I have tried charging while connected but separately, I have tried charging them together and I have even disconnected the pigtail and charged them. Same thing 100% but no start. I even went and bought a new 12V charger today with the same results. This is Pi*sing me off now! I left the lights on after driving it this week. Once I get it fired up I should be all set because the charging system if fine but... Any advise??
 

emr

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Can anyone give me any advise on how to jump start my Duce with one battery charger (12V) and or two cars. Also 12V. I have been charging the Duce batteries for two days with no luck. The charger tells me the batteries are 100% charged but when I try to start it the engine turns over about two or three times and then the batteries die. I have tried charging while connected but separately, I have tried charging them together and I have even disconnected the pigtail and charged them. Same thing 100% but no start. I even went and bought a new 12V charger today with the same results. This is Pi*sing me off now! I left the lights on after driving it this week. Once I get it fired up I should be all set because the charging system if fine but... Any advise??
sounds like a bad cell in one of the batts, they show charged but do not have enough to turn her over they would have a surface charge., may also be another problem, there are so many posts on this, but here it goes, If u have a deuce U have 2 batts , there for if U pull up 2 cars and have 2 sets of jumpers U can jump 2 batterys, simply put one cars bat to one bat and the other to the other, u can put a 12 volt charger on each batt in the truck at the same time with them connected, it is perfectly normal to do this and ok, If U have a few 2 amp chargers U can actually put more than one batt charger on ea. batt as long as they the voltage of the chargers do not go over 12 volts on ea. batt, this will turn them into a faster charger, it all really is that simple, It is easy to think to much into this stuff, Oh a batt that either has a bad cell or deeply sulphated can charge up and show charged but not be charged, it has what is called a surface charge and under load disipates fast , U must check voltage even a load tester can give a false reading on a batt with a bad cell, on of the tell tale signs of a bad batt deply sulphated is it takes a charge very fast, but it is not a deep charge and is worth less, Test batts 24 hours after sitting for the best reading using a hydrometer or anything else for that matter, or in a rush, put a load on it by trying to start then test, But remember it is just a thing not the trucks fault it just needs to be thought thru,
 
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sandcobra164

Well-known member
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Leesburg, GA
It's probably cold and the batteries may have met their end. To charge them, you're doing correct by removing the dogbone. As far as using 2 twelve volt sources. I'm not sure but curious. I know that if you hook up an accessory wire to just 1 batteries' positive and negative terminal, then you can have a 12 volt hook up without a converter. I don't know how that would work in opposite. I'd probably try having both batteries charged and just hooking up a car to one battery and see what happens.
 

emr

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landing , new jersey
If U have a car there , take the batt out and one at a time replace the deuce batts and U will then find out if one is bad trial and error, this way U do not need a tester u are using a batt that starts a car as the tester, U do not need to remove the middle leg to charge em, even if u only use one batt on one the charge will filter over to the other Charging a batt is like filling a pool, to prove this drive your truck and think about the alt , there is only one and it is charging both, like i said do not make it complicated, as long as u do not put more than 12 volts into a batt u are doing it right. less water takes longer, like a longer jump cable sure there is some drop, Just be patient it will do the job, And u can hook a 12 volt off either batt, but there are consequences, if one batt draws down the other will want to stay the same voltage, when batts are not fully charged they sulphate and there life is shortened,, It is 100 % human error on almost all batt failure. not maintaning them in a clean and fully charged state shortens there life, If i were to take 12 volts from a batt I would take it from the batt that is taking the charge from the alt, and even then pull them and clean them and charge them individually every 4 to 6 months and rotate them.
 
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