• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Just got my first MV!

Blaines2399

Member
26
71
13
Location
Kansas City MO
How well do the windows mate up with it?
Not that great if close the door with the windows up already. If I close the windows while the door is shut the seal in the corners are much better. I figured that was to be expected. I'm just gonna put some additional weather stripping to block the gaps
 

Superthermal

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
307
844
93
Location
Utah, Murray, United States
Not that great if close the door with the windows up already. If I close the windows while the door is shut the seal in the corners are much better. I figured that was to be expected. I'm just gonna put some additional weather stripping to block the gaps
The hard top on my M813 like yours doesn't fit all that good either. Rolling up the windows to seal? Nope they don't seal so well. So what, lol. Not a deal breaker at all for me. The only way I could consider this "seal" to bet better would be to spend a serious amount of time to make a frame for the door that the window rolls up into and that frame then seals to the top.

Rig is awesome! Keep posting on your progress.
 

Blaines2399

Member
26
71
13
Location
Kansas City MO
The hard top on my M813 like yours doesn't fit all that good either. Rolling up the windows to seal? Nope they don't seal so well. So what, lol. Not a deal breaker at all for me. The only way I could consider this "seal" to bet better would be to spend a serious amount of time to make a frame for the door that the window rolls up into and that frame then seals to the top.

Rig is awesome! Keep posting on your progress.
Yup I'm not too worried about it. I'm gonna use some seam sealer to get it all sealed up. I was thinking about making what you described for the windows but I'm not sure when I'll get to it. I'm just happy to have a hard top!

The winch operation on the truck is definitely interesting. Impossible to push the clutch lever on the winch back to the disengaged position when you're pulling something I figured out. And I'm not so sure my brake for my drum is working either as it still rotates when I rotate it by hand.
 

Superthermal

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
307
844
93
Location
Utah, Murray, United States
Yup I'm not too worried about it. I'm gonna use some seam sealer to get it all sealed up. I was thinking about making what you described for the windows but I'm not sure when I'll get to it. I'm just happy to have a hard top!

The winch operation on the truck is definitely interesting. Impossible to push the clutch lever on the winch back to the disengaged position when you're pulling something I figured out. And I'm not so sure my brake for my drum is working either as it still rotates when I rotate it by hand.
I am still short on funds to get my winch set up finished. Still need the driveshaft, linkages, cable, cable chain loop, and frame extensions. I'll ask my friend who has a lot of winch experience with these on your thoughts of the operation as a brake is very important when using a winch. I was not aware that there was no brake function, but... the PTO is amazing to be able to pull all day and not have to worry about batteries melting. All my electric WARN winches I have used had an excellent brake. If these units don't have anything like it I may consider selling my winch with the level wind and PTO and start hunting for a 18K Warn electric or 20K or 30K hydraulic.
 

Blaines2399

Member
26
71
13
Location
Kansas City MO
Maybe I'm confused as to what the brake should do as I have no winch experience. The winch when unwinding does brake itself if I pull the cable out too fast it seems. What I meant is when the winch is not in use I've accidentally stepped on the drum and spun it which I thought the brake would prevent?

Also my winch was added on to my truck hence it being red so I have no data plates sadly.

Here's some pictures of what I've accomplished over the past few weeks. I installed the artic boot kits, painted my air box black, got the black mirrors installed, and installed the emergency engine stop (mine was missing)

Edit- I also painted the exhaust stack black
 

Attachments

US6x4

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,233
2,242
113
Location
Wenatchee, WA
To keep the drum from freely spinning the drum lock knob on the driver side has to engaged. It has a pin that protrudes into one of many slots in the drum side flange.

The brake holds the load when the clutch is depressed and cuts out the PTO power.

20240428_084500.jpg
 

US6x4

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,233
2,242
113
Location
Wenatchee, WA
I would suggest reading up on the winch functionality in TM-9-2320-260-10 found in the TM download section - it's good reading!

And check with Eastern Surplus or TNJ Murray for the missing data plates.


20240428_085919.jpg
 

msgjd

Well-known member
1,079
3,312
113
Location
upstate ny
Everyone has covered things well however I will point out a couple things you should NOT do with your truck , that is :

1: With any air pressure in the system, DON'T let the truck roll Backwards with tranny in Neutral nor any Forward gear
2: With any air pressure in the system , DON'T let the truck roll Forwards with tranny in Reverse

Severe driveline binding and transfer case damage can occur, especially if the above happens on hard surfaces .. Here in the forums you should get familiar with how your xfer case sprag unit works and the need to keep the sprag in mind every time you operate or tow the truck ;)
 
Last edited:

US6x4

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,233
2,242
113
Location
Wenatchee, WA
Another thing about these trucks: be mindful of the order in which you turn off the truck when it's running. Turn off the engine switch first and then after the engine has stopped rotating shut off the battery switch.

If you shut off the battery switch first with the engine running it can fry the alternator's voltage regulator.
 

Blaines2399

Member
26
71
13
Location
Kansas City MO
Thanks for all the helpful advice! I'll be sure to keep the rolling back in the wrong gear in mind.

I didnt get too much done on the truck this week, due to the rain I didn't get to do the winch brake tests. Anyhow I changed all three differential fluids, transfer case, and transmission fluids. That was a lot of used oil and pumping manually sucked.

I got all the wheels painted black and cleaned the grime off the tires and got them tire shined black as well. I also got all the door weather stripping off and the rust sanded down and painted. Probably am not going to reuse the metal tabs and screws to hold down the new weather stripping as most of them all falling apart. I'll just use adhesive. I also installed big Mike's brake reservoir too.
 

Attachments

Blaines2399

Member
26
71
13
Location
Kansas City MO
I seem to have developed a high idle after driving the truck for a extended period of time (30+ minutes). It will idle at about 1k to 1.5k and I have to put it in gear and let it down with the clutch to keep it down. Any ideas at what to look at?
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks