Keeping a M1009 alive

[CUCV VZ]

Did not have much time as I would have liked this weekend to dedicate towards the truck, but I was able to fix the IP leak with re-wrenching them down. Saw on the youtubes a helpful tip for the IP lines, notching the closed side with just enough room to slide the hardline through. this was tremendously helpful for saving time & gave me extra teeth to grab the line nuts.

While I was under the hood I pulled a few glow plugs and they have definitely swelled a bit. It was weird as some were noticeably larger than others, I chalked it up to the rust build up varying on the connector tabs. One plastic wire connectors cracked and shattered while removing unfortunately and that is where I decided I'll stop. The current set of glow plugs were from Diesel Rx. But I will try the AC Delco ones next.

 

[CUCV VZ]

Try taking the low coolant sensor out of the radiator and clean it. Also clean the wire connection. You will most likely have to remove the front battery to get to the sensor. It solved my idiot light flashing problem.

Found the problem, grounding wire of some sort was fried again. I tried fixing it when I changed out the blinker bulb. I will eventually upload a photo of the mess.

 

[CUCV VZ]

New line arrived curtesy of @nyoffroad, all hooked up. 3 cranks later and low on the batteries. Got out the old battery charger letting it sit for a couple of hours and came back to completely drained batteries. Going to take the 31s to someone who has a shop charger and hope I can get a quick fill.

I do enjoy buying my own tools and equipment, however I only have the truck for storage at the moment. I will be happy the day I get my own garage.

 

[nyoffroad]

I was hoping to come in here today and see that it was up and running, might have a bad cell in a battery or justa bad connection. Could be like I did had the charger on a car in my driveway and when I was cleaning up that night I dutifully unplugged everything, including the extension cord going to the charger!

 

[CUCV VZ]

I was hoping to come in here today and see that it was up and running, might have a bad cell in a battery or justa bad connection. Could be like I did had the charger on a car in my driveway and when I was cleaning up that night I dutifully unplugged everything, including the extension cord going to the charger!

I got my batteries back and have no classes tomorrow, so I am shooting at having it running by noon hopefully.

 

[CUCV VZ]

Is there a good way to tell if a starter has been fried? The thing just absolutely drains the piss outta my batteries in order for it to run at high speeds . I have to constantly keep the charger on the truck.

Also is there a proper order the lines are to be bled? She'll run for a solid 2 - 3 min while I am bleeding but as soon as I get to the next line to crack open It'll sputter out. I haven’t seen anything like this on youtube just confused as to why mine keeps dying.

 

[CUCV VZ]

Sorry for the delay in progress, life happened - lost a family member and school is moving into finals.

Whenever the truck dies out air will hit the fuel filter box before the injectors is this typical of trapped air in the lines?

I have also noticed that the fuel tank no longer has a pressurized exchange when the cap is removed, do the tanks need to be pressurized?

I can bleed the lines over and over and start the blazer as many times as I want but it keeps getting choked out. Has anyone had this problem before?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

[CUCV VZ]

Hopefully will have some time Sunday to spend with the blazer

 

[CARC686]

If you're getting good fuel flow, a little air in the lines is a nonissue, but if you continue to have air in the lines, you'll have to track down the point of ingress. To determine if you're pulling air into the fuel system, the first thing to do is replace the return hose on the injection pump with a piece of clear tubing so you can see if you've got air bubbles in the line. Because the lift pump sucks fuel out of the tank instead of pushing it, the leak will not be obvious. If I were you, I would use compressed air to pressurize the fuel tank. That ought to make any leaks in the system begin to drip so you can find them. Many people install an electric fuel pump at the tank to achieve the same thing, but it's not necessary.

The bad news is that when I had your symptoms, my injection pump was failing. I hope that's not your issue, but if it is, there are plenty of rebuilders people here will vouch for.

 

[CUCV VZ]

I have replaced the fuel sender unit hoping it was just a bad seal on the tank or rusted connection. No luck. However, the fuel gauge is now reading correct to what is in the tank.

Next thing I checked is if it was a fuel line alongside the frame rail. I removed the rubber supply line from the mechanical fuel pump on the block and circumvented the tank with an external 5 gal jerrycan and fuel line. Once again after bleeding and starting, air emerged in the return line.

I bought a replacement mechanical pump seeing as this maybe the failure point. It is hard to detect any leak based off of residue/wetness as half my frame and block is caked in oil, trans fluid and the diesel from bleeding the fuel lines. I suspect this to be the component as the ground shows a different story, with a larger puddle under this side of the block.

After waiting to get the part shipped in, I immediately rounded the nut on the hard line connecting from the pump up to the block. Every single thing I touch has been seized by 40 years. Anyone have a PN for this hardline?

Lot of hurry up and wait for parts. I am getting afraid of even looking at bolts at this point.