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Thank you Sir. I will indeed consider that after I get the P400 up and running!
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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Kinda got carried away..... M1028 rebuild
- Thread starter Sharecropper
- Start date
gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Lookin sharp! Can wait to hear it fire up.
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I think that chevy civi diesel trucks/Suburbans had factory heat and sound insulation on the firewalls. Not sure if its still available or not. Just thinking.
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Here's an update. Taking my time and enjoying it immensely.
Installed a new IP driven gear. I could have purchased a used gear off Ebay, but because the P400 drive gear is new, I wanted to use a new driven gear so that the wear patterns on both gears would mature together. I sourced new M8-1.25 x 25mm flange bolts from McMaster and torqued all three to 30 foot-pounds, which is 10 pounds more than the TM specifies. Used blue Loctite on the threads and red Permatex 81950 Ultra-Slick Engine Assembly Lube on the gear teeth. Turned the engine over a few times with a pull handle and 24mm socket on the harmonic balancer to spread the pre-lube evenly on all teeth. It's surprising how easy the engine turns by hand. Probably the easist I have ever experienced. To index the timing of the driven gear correctly, the engine must be turned until the timing dot on the drive gear is at 12:00, then the driven gear should be meshed onto the drive gear at 6:00 with the two dots aligned. Failure to do this will result in the engine refusing to crank, period.
Next I will mount the new FlowKooler hi-volume water pump and oil filler tube. Here are a couple photos of my progress so far -
Installed a new IP driven gear. I could have purchased a used gear off Ebay, but because the P400 drive gear is new, I wanted to use a new driven gear so that the wear patterns on both gears would mature together. I sourced new M8-1.25 x 25mm flange bolts from McMaster and torqued all three to 30 foot-pounds, which is 10 pounds more than the TM specifies. Used blue Loctite on the threads and red Permatex 81950 Ultra-Slick Engine Assembly Lube on the gear teeth. Turned the engine over a few times with a pull handle and 24mm socket on the harmonic balancer to spread the pre-lube evenly on all teeth. It's surprising how easy the engine turns by hand. Probably the easist I have ever experienced. To index the timing of the driven gear correctly, the engine must be turned until the timing dot on the drive gear is at 12:00, then the driven gear should be meshed onto the drive gear at 6:00 with the two dots aligned. Failure to do this will result in the engine refusing to crank, period.
Next I will mount the new FlowKooler hi-volume water pump and oil filler tube. Here are a couple photos of my progress so far -
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Did your intake bolts arrive?
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Hard to believe. USPS Priority box arrived here a short while ago and it was destroyed with nothing in it!
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Mike ,
Give me a call. I have more, I will ship out some more in the morning . I would like to get those pics to file a claim. I insured them.
Give me a call. I have more, I will ship out some more in the morning . I would like to get those pics to file a claim. I insured them.
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OK here is an update - I received the FlowKooler high-volume clockwise-rotation water pump and Fel-Pro gaskets. Before assembling, however, I media-blasted the water pump backing plate and treated it with Etch-Prep. I then laid the backing plate down with the FlowKooler in position, and penciled the outline of the water pump onto the backing plate. I then taped off the area which will be behind the water pump, and painted the backing plate with Rustoleum High Temperature Engine black paint. I did not want to paint the area behind the water pump because I wanted my gaskets and gasket sealer to adhere directly metal-to-metal. After the paint had dried I removed the tape and assembled the FlowKooler to the backing plate with the M8 bolts from behind. I then applied gasket sealer and the larger Fel-Pro gasket to the perimeter of the backing plate and installed the entire assembly to the engine. All M8 bolts were torqued to 20 foot pounds and the M10 studs were torqued to 35 foot pounds per the TM. Here are a few photos -
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richingalveston
Well-known member
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If you have time to elaborate on the oil filter mod you are installing then please share. I have the valve cover with oil cap opening and I will have the motor out so it may be something I should consider.
if it is in this post somewhere then please point it out. I have been through it (been here since the beginning).
Thanks
Rich
if it is in this post somewhere then please point it out. I have been through it (been here since the beginning).
Thanks
Rich
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Rich - I fully intend to photo-document everything I do to my P400, including the Spinner centrifugal filter install. Regarding that, I am now in the process of engineering and fabricating a mock-up model bracket for the Spinner to mount on. The Spinner CF spins the oil at 6000 RPM via normal oil pressure, and this centrifugal force sends all contaminants in the oil outwards to accumulate on the outer wall of the spinning vessel. The oil circulating in the center of the vessel is clean and without contaminants, and then drains back into the engine through the PCV opening in the valve cover. Regular round paper oil filters used on automobile engines today will filter contaminants in size down to around 20 micron, however as these filters accumulate the contaminants 20 micron and larger, they become even less effective. The Spinner centrifugal filter will remove contaminants in size down to less than 1 micron, which is the size of a germ's body. The "black" in used motor oil is contaminants, mainly microscopic carbon particles from piston ring blow-by. The Spinner centrifugal filter will remove these carbon contaminants non-stop during every minute that the engine is running.
When my P400 arrived, the valve cover with the PCV opening was on the passenger side, however there was no way to make the spinner work on that side with the air cleaner intake and 6.2 PCV valve in the way. Over on the driver's side, however, there was plenty of room, so I swapped valve covers so that the P400 PCV opening would be on the driver's side. In engineering the bracket for the spinner to mount on, I am designing a 1/4" steel plate with an attachment point from at least one intake bolt and down to 2 valve cover bolts. I will post photos of this bracket when I get it finished. To power the Spinner, I plan to feed it via a AN hose and fitting from the front of the passenger head port, where a turbo would normally get it's oil supply. Because I do not plan to turbo, this port will be ideal because it is downstream from the cam bearings in the oil galley. If I were planning to turbo, I would probably obtain the Spinner oil feed from the large oil port above the paper filter on the driver's side.
Stay tuned, it's beginning to get fun.
When my P400 arrived, the valve cover with the PCV opening was on the passenger side, however there was no way to make the spinner work on that side with the air cleaner intake and 6.2 PCV valve in the way. Over on the driver's side, however, there was plenty of room, so I swapped valve covers so that the P400 PCV opening would be on the driver's side. In engineering the bracket for the spinner to mount on, I am designing a 1/4" steel plate with an attachment point from at least one intake bolt and down to 2 valve cover bolts. I will post photos of this bracket when I get it finished. To power the Spinner, I plan to feed it via a AN hose and fitting from the front of the passenger head port, where a turbo would normally get it's oil supply. Because I do not plan to turbo, this port will be ideal because it is downstream from the cam bearings in the oil galley. If I were planning to turbo, I would probably obtain the Spinner oil feed from the large oil port above the paper filter on the driver's side.
Stay tuned, it's beginning to get fun.
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Yes I studied that kit in depth before embarking on my effort to fabricate a custom bracket. The casting in that kit is unique to the Duramax and will not work on the front of a 6.2/6.5. I wish that it would, because it would certainly make it easier to add the Spinner to my system. I’m almost finished with the engineering for a custom bracket for any 6.2/6.5 and when I get finished I will post the plans on SS for anyone who wants them.
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While waiting on my metal fabricator to produce the Spinner bracket, I became uncomfortable with the ability of my engine stand to hold the weight of the P400 as I continued to add parts. So I jumped into my shop and designed/built a laminated beam cradle for the engine to sit in during dress-up. By getting the engine off the stand and into the cradle, I can now go ahead and mount the 700R4 transmission.
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Update - got my NOS flex plate cleaned and installed. GM part number 14077158. Found it on Ebay for $50 with free shipping. Would rather have this original US-made part than the cheap Chinese stuff available. It had slight surface rust on the gears but quick work with a fine wire wheel brought it back to as-new condition. A light coat of WD40 will keep it rust-free until everything is finished.
I was a little surprised that the flex plate bolt holes on the rear of the crank were not metric, as everything else on the engine is metric. But the threads are SAE 7/16"-20 fine thread. I looked on Summit and there were several suppliers of these bolts, but all bolts offered were only 5/8" long. I measured the depth of the threaded holes on the end of the crank and all were 1-1/8" deep, so I ordered 1" long Grade 8 flange bolts from McMaster, part #92316A341. Used blue Loctitie and torqued all 6 bolts to 65 foot pounds per TM. Now I am looking for a new HMMWV 24-volt starter.
I was a little surprised that the flex plate bolt holes on the rear of the crank were not metric, as everything else on the engine is metric. But the threads are SAE 7/16"-20 fine thread. I looked on Summit and there were several suppliers of these bolts, but all bolts offered were only 5/8" long. I measured the depth of the threaded holes on the end of the crank and all were 1-1/8" deep, so I ordered 1" long Grade 8 flange bolts from McMaster, part #92316A341. Used blue Loctitie and torqued all 6 bolts to 65 foot pounds per TM. Now I am looking for a new HMMWV 24-volt starter.
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Measure the thickness of you bolt head. I know flange bolts can be pretty thick. The OEM bolts are very thin. This is so they can clear the torque converter. If the ones you have are too tall, the converter will hit them before the hub enters the crankshaft bore. This would also keep the bell housing from mating all the way too the block.
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Ken - thanks for the heads-up. I will measure them tomorrow and report back.
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Mike,
I just went out to the garage and measured one. It is .215 thick. So 1/32 less than a 1/4 inch.
I just went out to the garage and measured one. It is .215 thick. So 1/32 less than a 1/4 inch.
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Ken - GOOD CATCH! You are correct, the flange bolt heads are too high to clear the torque converter. Whew, that was close! I owe you a cowboy steak!
I'm ordering the correct flex plate bolts now from Summit.
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Just ordered the correct flexplate bolts from Summit - ARP #200-2906. 7/16"-20 fine thread with .725 threads under the head.
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Glad I could help. That's what SS is all about.