Laundry list for the m1009

[Tinstar]

If you don’t drive it often, I would keep tank topped off.
A full tank will have almost zero condensation buildup.
The more airspace in tank, the more water buildup.

SeaFoam also removes water from fuel system.

 

[Gramps]

I'll top up the tank Sunday when its out for a drive. Also DJones will be meeting up with me to take a look at it and hopefully give me some advice since he's had more experience with these vehicles. Excited to meet another member.

 

[Keith_J]

If you don’t drive it often, I would keep tank topped off.
A full tank will have almost zero condensation buildup.
The more airspace in tank, the more water buildup.

SeaFoam also removes water from fuel system.

Good point about keeping the tank topped off. Nothing "removes" water from fuel, the only thing possible is emulsifying the water and protecting from corrosion. With most ultra low sulfur diesel, a small percentage of biodiesel is added to replace lost lubricity. The problem here is biodiesel is far more reactive and holds more water. When it gets damp, it gets cloudy instead of the water dropping out to the bottom. Gone is the sludge issue with minor contamination BUT fatty acid methyl ester (biodiesel) becomes very easy to oxidize when damp. Then it forms varnish which has become a serious problem in the past 10 years.

I have yet to try SeaFoam on this type of varnish. I know Diesel Mechanic in a Bottle works very well in dissolving this deposit.

 

[Gramps]

Met up with DJones yesterday. Great guy really excited for the Haspin rally now. Tank is topped up now. When it's getting close to empty I might pull it and give it a good cleaning I can't even imagine the gunk in the bottom after 30 years. I'm going to setup a long-term study with different adatives in fuel to see what effects they have. I'm sure it's been done before but always cool to see in person.
Confirmed my trailer is a 101, started to clean it out and organize all of my parts, will be posting a lot of items for sale as I have no use for most of it.

 

[Gramps]

Guess brakes aren't fixed yet. Took it for a drive yesterday, it now pulls to the right when braking. Had this problem before master cylinder replacement, But went away for a few days after. I'm fairly confident its not a pinched or clogged line with how easy brake bleed was. I'll get it in the air this weekend and see whats going on.

 

[porkysplace]

Guess brakes aren't fixed yet. Took it for a drive yesterday, it now pulls to the right when braking. Had this problem before master cylinder replacement, But went away for a few days after. I'm fairly confident its not a pinched or clogged line with how easy brake bleed was. I'll get it in the air this weekend and see whats going on.

I would check for a caliper hanging up or a warped rotor for the pulling issue.

 

[Gramps]

Probably gunk built up all around caliper and in the slidepins. Doesn't feel like a warped rotor although not ruling it out. Forgot to mention when slowly down right before stopping there is a crunch kind of sound. Difficult to explain the noise I'll see if I can record it.

 

[porkysplace]

Probably gunk built up all around caliper and in the slidepins. Doesn't feel like a warped rotor although not ruling it out. Forgot to mention when slowly down right before stopping there is a crunch kind of sound. Difficult to explain the noise I'll see if I can record it.

Are the front hubs locked in ?
If the caliper is hanging up it usually eats up the inside pad , that may be the sound your hearing.

 

[Gramps]

Are the front hubs locked in ?
If the caliper is hanging up it usually eats up the inside pad , that may be the sound your hearing.

Hubs are not locked, Was able to get it in the air last night, there was an incredible amount of gunk in drivers side caliper. I should have taken pictures, scraped as much as I could out and hit it with brakleen. Turns out rotor is also a little warped not to bad though still driveable. In March I'm taking a weekend off to do a ton of work I'll replace it then.

 

[Gramps]

Alright haven't updated in a while so here we go. Brakes are doing much better it stops in a straight line, just a little vibration from the warped rotor. It is skipping second gear and going straight into third, not sure if its a vacuum issue or a shift solenoid. I can put it in first and bump it up a gear as I take off, Not wanting that to be a long term solution though. If there wasn't more important issues I'd take on the nv4500 swap.
Drove it for the whole weekend, ran great Friday and Saturday, Sunday not so much. Went out to start it and in a effort to not annoy my neighbors I was trying to start it quietly, Should have just gone for it because after running for a few seconds it would not start at all. Tried retarding the injector pump but that didn't help. Killed the battery and at that point I said forget it and used the Towbaru as it's now called to get it back to the farm.
I'll pull the batteries and charge them, It will probably start fine.

 

[Gramps]

Can I use a normal 30mm deep socket for the injectors or do I need the OTC 5060?

 

[cucvrus]

30 mm socket will work. Just pull evenly. I have a 30 mm Snap On nozzle socket. But I have used a standard 30 mm deep.

 

[Tinstar]

Went out to start it and in a effort to not annoy my neighbors I was trying to start it quietly

How does one start a CUCV quietly?

 

[Tinstar]

Can I use a normal 30mm deep socket for the injectors or do I need the OTC 5060?

Buy the Snap-On Injector socket if you can find it.
I bought a brand new one on eBay.

Works perfect and will not damage threads, etc.

 

[Gramps]

How does one start a CUCV quietly?

Lol it doesn't have mufflers currently so I was not giving it much throttle. It started and ran for about 15 seconds then cut out. If I'd have gassed it like normal it would have ran fine. Fairly certain it's a combination of the cold start solenoid not working and junky injectors.

 

[acthomp781]

I had a similar issue with my M1009 brakes of a "crunching" sound the last few feet when coming to a stop. I removed the calipers and found a mouse skull between the rotor and backing plate, on one side, that was not the source of the sound, just a funny thing to find. I eventually replaced the rotors and hubs and installed new pads, and the sound went away.

 

[Gramps]

Pulled the batteries yesterday to charge them. Voltage reading was 12.41v, Quite a bit higher reading than expected. While I was pulling them noticed the cold start retarder was hanging next to the injection pump, Would explain my no start issue. Won't be able to get anything done till Sunday, Praying for decent weather.
In late March I'm getting quite a bit done:
Transmission Rebuild
Timing Chain and sprockets
Upper and lower ball-joints both sides
Front brakes
Oil change
Differential Fluid
Rear Window crank
Wiring and mounting PA/inverter into center console
Gauge lights
Sanding rust patches out, repainting
Injectors (possibly)

Bunch of buddies coming over to help, Going to be a great actually making some headway on the truck.

 

[Gramps]

Well put the batteries back in and it's still refusing to start, checked glowplugs and compression all coming up fine. Narrowed it down to a fuel issue I think its a clogged filter. Picked up one today popping it in tomorrow. If that doesn't fix it I have no idea, not a kinked line. Might be pulling the fuel tank see how much gunk is in it.

 

[Gramps]

Finally got it to run. However I discovered that I'm going to be replacing the engine. Cracked block right in between cylinder 6 and 8. Looking at putting a 454 in it, anyone have advice for doing a swap? Helped with one before but this will be the first one I've personally done.

Questions I have:
Are the engine mounts and bell housing the same?
Can I use the same radiator?
Will the accessories carry over to the 454? I'd like to keep the alternator and hydro-boost.
Planning on pulling trans for rebuild at the same time. Is it easier pull engine and trans together or seperate first?
Can I use same fuel tank and lines after flushing or will gas ruin the lines?

 

[cucvrus]

Questions I have:
Are the engine mounts and bell housing the same?
Can I use the same radiator?
Will the accessories carry over to the 454? I'd like to keep the alternator and hydro-boost.
Planning on pulling trans for rebuild at the same time. Is it easier pull engine and trans together or seperate first?
Can I use same fuel tank and lines after flushing or will gas ruin the lines?

Not 100% sure but I would say yes to engine mounts. If not the frame and perches are drilled for the correct mounts.

Yes to the radiator. The oil cooler may be useless if the 454 does not have an auxiliary oil cooler.


The brackets from the 6.2 that hold the alternators will not fit on the 454. The hydro boost will work with the correct power steering pump brackets for the 454.

The transmission will work it will need a 454 torque converter and the transmission vacuum shifting will need programed for a gas engine.

I would pull the engine first and then the transmission. That is a long/heavy assembly and will require a lot of height on the cherry picker. That's me.

The fuel tank flushed out will work and everything should be thoroughly checked for leaks. Of course you will not need the fuel return line. That may be used for emissions. Maybe.

I done these changes on many Oldsmobile diesel engines back in the day when the Goodwrench 350 diesel was a ticking time bomb.

And none of my information is carved in stone or absolutely 100% accurate. But I see many CUCV's with gas engines and I have converted one back to diesel for a guy that bought one incomplete with a 350 gas engine in it. Do your research. If it were me it would be worth the $1,000 or less for a replacement 6.2 diesel. Rebuild the one you have. How did you find the cracks in the block? Another block is possible also. Do as you wish. Good Luck.