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LD Continental Multifuel Motor Questions

Recovry4x4

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3 ways to address the delayed oil pressure issue.
1) Prelube. Has a storage tank and pump you can activate to prelube the oil system prior to start up. Works best!
2) Remote oil filter (mounted correctly). This elminates oil drain back into the crank case thus improving instant oil pressure on start up. Requires much fab work.
3) Spin on adapters. These allow you to use anti drain back filters. Oil can still drain forward but not nearly as much as the factory setup. Makes changing oil a breeze and does a good job of decreasing the oil pressureless time.
 

jimk

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My LD was weak even with a lot of available fuel (smoke). Adding a used "D" turbo was easy and cost about $300*. The change was dramatic with a large power increase and no smoke. A pyrometer showed high EGT at 16psi+ at 2600rpm (note - the highest EGT occur at the lower part of the operation range because the air acts as coolant (lowers egt) and there is less boost at lower rpm). My IP fuel screw was turned down 2-1/2 turns for 12psi at 2500rpm (13psi at 2600). There was a slight power drop but it was still very strong. 12psi is about the same as the factory LDS spec, which is 18-20" Hg at 2400rpm (or ~ 9-10 psi ). The additional 200 rpm above 2400rpm will create anther couple psi boost. The LDS HP rating is 170-185hp at 2600rpm.

The Factory spec. did have the LDT (turbo) rating only a few HP more than the LD but I think many ended up a bit higher. The intention was to only clean up some smoke so a very low boost was needed for the 140hp rating. Perhaps 4-6psi.

There is a lot of info in the LDS 465-1 Troubleshooting Manual. It can be downloaded here.

Steel Soldiers :: Military Vehicles Supersite

p.s. I should point out that my engine's enviroment is towing a very heavy load. If you have a recreational rig running light you might be able to take a bit more (15psi?). The 22:1 compression ratio and lack of an intercooler are issues that need attention if anything higher than this to be considered.

I have also put together an accummulator pre-lube system. It dumps a gallon of oil into the filters. This is still not enough to create main line pressure. There are pics posted here somewhere (key word Moroso accumulator?). I think modern oil offers good protection for cold starts and wear issues might be confined to the engine that has been sitting a very long time.
 
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mcmullag

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uses

Is that vehicle used to take folks out on the snow and ice to look at polar bears?

For prelube, is that trick worth it to use where you pull out the 'stop'
thingy and crank for about 10 seconds to get some oil up in the engine,
then push the stop thingy in and crank and fire it up. Anybody think that
helps the engine life, long term?
:?
 

Max

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Great responses. Thanks. Sorry, that is all I have for photos for now until I get the rig transferred back to my location. Still sitting on my tractor trailer up north-need to get a DOT permit and pilot car to move it. Will post some field photos once I get it rolling-want to do some maintenance/upgrades done on it before venturing too far; and I do intend to go far. It's just my huntin' rig-back is set up with a queen bed, two bunk beds, a propane heater, dual stainless sink; basically a mobile cabin. Rolly oscillates and articulates; hydraulic rams-good for climbing mountains and swamp extractions. I just like the big rigs. My buddy has a green Rollagon with a two-stoke deisel-looking forward to getting them both together-that is going to be epic!
 

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OPCOM

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Here is the rig the motor is in; commonly known as a Rollagon. So, do the spin on adapter oil modifications provide immediate oil pressure upon starting? I'm new to this site and appreciate all the responses and assistance.
The only kind of oil filter that will give you 'fast" pressure (3-7 seconds) is an anti-drainback type. Even these do slowly seep/drain back much of the oil after a while especially when they are getting old, so a week or month later they are empty and what's the point?

The only way to have pressure right away is to use a prelube system. That is what I did. The accumulator is a good way also if you can build it.
 
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OPCOM

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Would also appreciate any additional comments on the turbocharger....I'm surprised that it doesn't boost the horsepower any more than that....several people who have done the additon have told me that the horsepower improvement is dramatic.....thanks again......
In many true cases duiscussed here, it just has not made any real difference. This bears out the data in the TMs (Technical Manuals) although the above post with 16PSI boost may be an exception. At 9PSI, which is prety normal and not turned up much, it won't make a big difference. The kind used is intended just to clean up the exhaust and it does a decent job of reducing the black smoke. The injector timing is different with turbo and without. The best way to get every amount of power from the engine besides clean filkters etc. is to use an EGT and adjust the fuel up, then drive using the EGT when it is necessary to make power. Beware that engine is a really old design and ought not be over-revved or abused or it will end up doing something bad.

Check your head gaskets for which type you have. The old kind has tabs that stick out on the exh manifold side of the engine. you can see or feel these if you check closely. If you got the old kind, treat it gently as they have been known to let go. Pics of both kinds here: Untitled Normal Page

There is a lot of info in the Deuce Modification and Hot-Rodding section which will tell you a lot about what the limits are. If you read all the posts on that and search for the posts on other topics, you will know that engine pretty well. Post up some more stuf on that rig!!
 
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