Lift kit for M1009

[Horsepowerparts]

We built a lot of M1009 with a 4" Lift Kit.
Front Springs and rear Blocks.
All are harder on the Front Springs than stock.
We do not have vibrations when we lift a M1009.
"Play in steering" is not good.
But these are other parts you must change.
Yes you must have a sway bar.

Regards
Steve

 

[Rustyshackelford]

No, never drop or lower the transfer case. You also don’t need a sway bar.

 

[richingalveston]

a lot of times the steering problem is in the steering shaft flex joint or rag joint as it is often referred to. it can be replaced with new and last for a while or most who do off road mods get a shaft with u-joints and not the rag joint.

http://www.borgeson.com/xcart/product.php?productid=1449&cat=34&page=1

the steering box can be worn out also but most of the time the shaft removes a lot of the play.

Lowering the case is not the best solution but it should not break anything. Try some axle shims they are cheep and it would be better to rotate your pinion angle a couple of degrees than drop the t case. you would still need the longer drive shaft.

 

[nathus]

No, never drop or lower the transfer case. You also don’t need a sway bar.

please can you explain why you won't suggest

 

[nathus]

a lot of times the steering problem is in the steering shaft flex joint or rag joint as it is often referred to. it can be replaced with new and last for a while or most who do off road mods get a shaft with u-joints and not the rag joint.

http://www.borgeson.com/xcart/product.php?productid=1449&cat=34&page=1

the steering box can be worn out also but most of the time the shaft removes a lot of the play.

Lowering the case is not the best solution but it should not break anything. Try some axle shims they are cheep and it would be better to rotate your pinion angle a couple of degrees than drop the t case. you would still need the longer drive shaft.

Again,

Thanks a lot !
My back block are "angled" already. With this I mean that they aren't flat and horizontal they do what a degree shim would do on a flat one.

I'm also thinking about a kind of mix solution. Lower the t-case about half an inch and leghten a litlle my standard driveshaft.
Like I said before, om not driving off road but I want to keep the reliabilty of this truck as close as possible from the original one.

The steering is very enoying ; if something was broken or worn. It was there already before the lift. And till I put it in place it was fine enough for me to drive with.
But since the lift kit, it's not nice anymore.

Does somebody tried a dual steering stabilizer ?

 

[Ilikemtb999]

Why spend the money to half assed lengthen your driveshaft? Just make it the correct length with the T-case in the stock location.

 

[nathus]

Why spend the money to half assed lengthen your driveshaft? Just make it the correct length with the T-case in the stock location.

Because making the driveshaft longer, doesn't reduce the angles. It does but it's minimal.
Lower the T-case 1 inch and it reduces the angles for 3-4 degrees.

 

[Ilikemtb999]

If the angles match then they’ll be fine. Literally thousands of trucks are on the road with a 4” lift (or so the internet would have you believe). I have no idea why you’ve had such a difficult time considering you bought a kit. Ridiculous.

 

[richingalveston]

as stated as long as angles match and the joints don't bind you should not have driveshaft vibrations.

If the angle is two steep at the t-case the slip yoke can bind slightly and cause some vibrations when the suspension is being worked. noticed more at slow speeds. This gets worse as the slip yoke wears out and gets more play.

since your axle is already shimmed your left with dropping the t-case if you keep the u-joint at the t-case

CV joint and slip shaft are the next option.

4 inch lift is really the limit to u-joints on these vehicles especially the 1009. The longer 1008 drivetrain is a little more forgiving.
At 4 inches you have to play with all the variables to get it to work. And yes there are lots of lift kits out there but most manufacturers don't care about your driveshaft problems. sounds like you will have to drop the case slightly to get a comfortable ride.

I am a fan of the ord shackle flip because it addresses the driveshaft angle and corrects it in the best way possible in my opinion

My 5 inch lift is pushing the limits of my cv joint shaft. I still had to clearance the u-joint at the axle

 

[nathus]

Hi all,

I brought my rear driveshaft to a guy whi will extend it.
He told me that the u joint at the t case side ; is not replacable nor removeable.
It’s like « metled » does anybody has seen this already on a m1009 ????

 

[richingalveston]

find another shop. all the joints can be replaced.

 

[Ilikemtb999]

If it’s original you just heat it up until the plastic melts out and then press/hammer it out. Otherwise if it’s been replaced there will be clips on the inside that need to be removed.

 

[richingalveston]

if the shop/guy cannot remove a factory u-joint, ask him what machine he is going to use to balance the shaft after he lengthens it. as posted you have to heat them.

I would suggest finding a real driveshaft shop....... sorry is see you are not in the states so a shop may not be an option.

just know the shaft has to be balanced once altered.

Rich

 

[nathus]

Hi,

Thanks to both of you !
Indeed and unfortunatly we don't have real driveshafts shops here.
The shop where I brought this is a shop for semi trucks , but he told me also that he had to balance it. So I guess he will do it like it has to be done.

He told me that the front u-joint (one the rear driveshaft) was probably an original, and was supposing that this old system was not made to be replaced.
I tried also to replace it when I replaced the rear one, but on the front I could'nt find any clip...

If I heat it to take it out, will I be able to put any Moog u -joint with clips in it ?

 

[nathus]

But both of you are 100 % sure that it can be replaced ?

At that time there was no other system that was not supposed to be replaced on these trucks ?

 

[richingalveston]

100% sure the joint can be replaced. the original joints were installed with a plastic pins

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CR1qqLo6XKA

see video

replacements have clips

 

[nathus]

100% sure the joint can be replaced. the original joints were installed with a plastic pins

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CR1qqLo6XKA

see video

replacements have clips

Thank you for the video !

I'll have a look on mine because i'm not sure that I have the small plastics stuts like his on the side.
But it look the right way.
He is not showing which type of u - joint he uses to replace the orignal ones. With metal clips on the cup or same design as the one he took out ?

Regards

 

[richingalveston]

replacements have metal clips at the ends of the cups to hold them in.
I don't have the part numbers for the new ones. someone else here that has done a recent replacement may be able to help with part numbers.

 

[nathus]

Thanks a lot !

 

[nathus]

Hi Guys,

I got my rear driveshaft back ; I'll put it back on monday, I realy hope this will solve the vibrations issues.
I choose to do a combination of two methods. I'll lower 0.5 inch my t-case and made my driveshaft a little longer... Let's cross the fingers now.

I had to remove the yoke on rear differential ; is there somthing particular to know when you put it back ?
Does anybody knows which torque it needs ?

Already thanks
Nathan