Light Bulb Numbers List for CUCV's

[jplace1011]

OK, done with the relamp and reassembling my dash. However, I thought it a good idea to test before completing the reassembly task.

So now I have a quick question. All lights are bright lights (pics to follow) but when waiting for the glow plugs (Wait Light flashing), I just noticed that my GEN 1 (a regular 168 lamp) and my GEN 2 (a regular 194 lamp) are not lighting up before the engine is turned over. IIRC, they are supposed to be lite before engine fire, correct? Now, I have not yet connected up my voltmeter, could that have something to do with it?

@ssdvc that’s so cool that Johnny is not too far from you! His truck is very cool and I like that he’s a USMc veteran driving it.

Since you need to hook up the Voltmeter anyways try that and see what happens. After I took my dash apart and put it back together, my Gen 2 wouldn’t light. I ended up having to put a few dabs of silicone and on the socket to hold it in place for a proper connection. The sockets and the connections in the rear dash get worn out. That really Big Plug by the speedometer back is something to make sure is plugged in all the way as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ezgn]

@ssdvc that’s so cool that Johnny is not too far from you! His truck is very cool and I like that he’s a USMc veteran driving it.

Since you need to hook up the Voltmeter anyways try that and see what happens. After I took my dash apart and put it back together, my Gen 2 wouldn’t light. I ended up having to put a few dabs of silicone and on the socket to hold it in place for a proper connection. The sockets and the connections in the rear dash get worn out. That really Big Plug by the speedometer back is something to make sure is plugged in all the way as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If the truck temperature is already warmed up those lights stay off.

 

[ezgn]

Get them working now. The voltmeter has nothing to do with it. It seems you have a loose / poor connection at the back of the printed circuit board or a loose corroded socket. Check everything and make everything work before reassembling the cluster. That is why I like to let the housing installed and unload the gauges out thru the front and reassemble in reverse. Make sure everything works. Old vehicles require a lot of patience and attention. I remember my 1968 SS396 Chevelle. The bulbs were all just on sockets and the harness and I removed the cluster to put speakers in the dash. Biggest nightmare. I was 16 at the time. Live and learn, Good Luck. Clean your contacts with a pencil eraser and slightly bend the prongs of the socket outward. Make sure the contacts on the socket are going on top of the printed circuit board and not slipping under the circuit board. Take Care.

My brother had a 1969 chevelle SS 396. If I remember correctly, it had a manual 3 speed. That was a great car and fun to drive.

 

[jplace1011]

My brother had a 1969 chevelle SS 396. If I remember correctly, it had a manual 3 speed. That was a great car and fun to drive.

If you end up needing any new sockets, I ordered some from Napa:

Instrument Panel Light Socket
Part # ECH LS6501


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ssdvc]

RGR Rick, thanks. I took apart everything over the past two weeks, down to the bare plastic housing. Cleaned everything, including all the contacts, checked all the bulb holder ears and made sure I have the proper bulbs where needed. Everything did work before I took her apart, and works now, except now the GEN 1&2 lights don't come on when the key is on. Truck does fire up as normal, so I recheck everything...........again.

 

[ssdvc]

Is there a polarity to the GEN 1&2 bulb sockets and could that be the cause?

 

[jplace1011]

Is there a polarity to the GEN 1&2 bulb sockets and could that be the cause?

Yes, check the polarity. Really good idea. It will only take a few seconds to try that. I had that issue with more than one LED bulb.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ssdvc]

OK, rotated the GEN 1 and 2 bulbs, no joy, still dark on start up. I have now removed all LED lamps and replaced with incandescent 168's for any indicator circuit, except for the actual gauge lighting. Still no joy for GEN 1 and 2. I also noticed that the indication for oil, temp, low coolant, etc, aren't lighting during startup either.

I checked the actual circuit board and all seems well. All connections, including the wiring harness to the actual board, are clean and tight. What I am missing?



I did find the 30 amp lighting fuse to be slightly melted, but not blown. Everything was still working, but I replaced the fuse none the less. What could be the cause there?

 

[ssdvc]

OK, I did a continuity check on the circuit board, all good. Hooked it all back up again. I have general lighting and the glow plug light works, but that's it. She fires up fine, but no vital indicator lamps are lighting. Additionally, I noticed that my fuel gauge, which worked before I disassembled everything, now reads at the 1500 position. What gives?

 

[jplace1011]

OK, I did a continuity check on the circuit board, all good. Hooked it all back up again. I have general lighting and the glow plug light works, but that's it. She fires up fine, but no vital indicator lamps are lighting. Additionally, I noticed that my fuel gauge, which worked before I disassembled everything, now reads at the 1500 position. What gives?

@cucvrus any ideas?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ezgn]

OK, I did a continuity check on the circuit board, all good. Hooked it all back up again. I have general lighting and the glow plug light works, but that's it. She fires up fine, but no vital indicator lamps are lighting. Additionally, I noticed that my fuel gauge, which worked before I disassembled everything, now reads at the 1500 position. What gives?

I feel your frustration. Maybe double check al your bulb sockets. Make sure all your sockets are making a good connection when screwed down. Double check all your bulbs even if new. New bulb sockets are cheap, maybe new ones would be worth a try.

 

[ssdvc]

I have gone over the whole instrument cluster. Connection clean, and tight, everything on the circuit board have continuity, all bulb sockets seated correctly, and all bulbs tested (SAT). I replaced one 30 amp fuse (not blown, but slightly melted as noted above.

The issue is affecting the vital indications only (fuel gauge, oil, water temp, GEN 1 & 2, etc). However, general lighting, BRAKE light, and glow plug WAIT light are all working properly. I am thinking that there is some sort of fusible link that may have popped, or maybe even another fuse somewhere, but I can't tell by the wiring diagram. Not only that, but all these things worked BEFORE I removed the cluster.

HELP !

 

[antennaclimber]

I was looking at the schematics last night to see what could be the problem to your situation.

I would start with checking all of the fuses and the fusible links at the 12v power diamond on the firewall.

Check each part with a volt ohm meter to ensure that it is good. Sometime parts that look and appear to be good are not.

 

[DarkSeas]

Have you checked your ground connections? A lot of times I've seen electrical gremlins it could be traced back to a ground issue.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?120289-CUCV-Electrical-Ground-Locations

 

[jplace1011]

Have you checked your ground connections? A lot of times I've seen electrical gremlins it could be traced back to a ground issue.

@ssdvc Just one last idea. I know you’ve checked things.

Just for the heck of it, with the key in the On position (not running just buzzing and the dash lighting up stage), very, very slowly turn each bulb. I had to do that to get my Gen 2 bulb to light it up. It only lights in one tiny spot. I kept it there and put a few drops of silicone to keep it locked there.

And keep in mind I had to do this even with a brand new circuit board and a new socket. I suspect it has something to do with the plastic bezel and the connection. Because the plastic is old, brittle and tweaked for all I don’t know.

I may be wrong and it still may not work, but it won’t take long to try it.

If you still want to try new sockets

Instrument Panel Light Socket
NAPA Part # ECH LS6501



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ssdvc]

Thanks Dark Seas, all grounds were checked, cleaned and SAT before hand.

Thanks JP, I'll give your suggestion a shot. I am will to try anything. More to follow.

 

[ssdvc]

I am going to continue working on this bulb thing today. Question. Why do one or two of the LED bulbs glow (very faintly) when they are supposed to be off? Is this a sign of a polarity issue? It doesn't do it with incandescent bulbs.

 

[ssdvc]

@ssdvc Just one last idea. I know you’ve checked things.

Just for the heck of it, with the key in the On position (not running just buzzing and the dash lighting up stage), very, very slowly turn each bulb. I had to do that to get my Gen 2 bulb to light it up. It only lights in one tiny spot. I kept it there and put a few drops of silicone to keep it locked there.

And keep in mind I had to do this even with a brand new circuit board and a new socket. I suspect it has something to do with the plastic bezel and the connection. Because the plastic is old, brittle and tweaked for all I don’t know.

I may be wrong and it still may not work, but it won’t take long to try it.

If you still want to try new sockets

Instrument Panel Light Socket
NAPA Part # ECH LS6501



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

JP, your suggestion was a good one. Apparently, due to the thicker bases of the LED bulbs, when putting the incandescents back in, the clamping force was a little weak. Took out the offending sockets and did some slight manipulation of the socket metal and BAM !, let there be light. And now, for some reason, the fuel gauge is now working too. All is now well on the instrument cluster front. On to other issues!

Thanks to all for the help and suggestions. Damn, this site is great !

 

[jplace1011]

JP, your suggestion was a good one. Apparently, due to the thicker bases of the LED bulbs, when putting the incandescents back in, the clamping force was a little weak. Took out the offending sockets and did some slight manipulation of the socket metal and BAM !, let there be light. And now, for some reason, the fuel gauge is now working too. All is now well on the instrument cluster front. On to other issues!

Thanks to all for the help and suggestions. Damn, this site is great !

@ssdvc That’s great man! What a relief!! It’s incredible how just one slight thing can cause something to work or not work. Enjoy the victory! Yea this Forum is awesome and worth every dollar!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[weaponoffreedom]

@ssdvc I’m late to the party, But this was a very informative and helpful video. Worth watching.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I suppose it does not create an issue with charging?