gimpyrobb
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Well, uh, alot of the led lights I buy from Peterbuilt are 12 & 24v compatible. Might want to check. I have run the oval stop/tail/turn lights on the M725 for years.
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Lighting upgrades
- Thread starter kurtkds
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drgreg
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Of course component costs, manufacturing costs and supply & demand factors have nothing to do with selling it for more.
I will stick with my original post and return to the regularly scheduled programming.
Verkstad
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Nice headlamps !
Being from the cold country first thing to my mind.
Would LED headlights emit enough heat to keep themselves melted free of ice & snow ??
Jakob
Being from the cold country first thing to my mind.
Would LED headlights emit enough heat to keep themselves melted free of ice & snow ??
Jakob
They offer a 24v version as well.
jeep-Jeep
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when I got my 5 ton from GL all the lights were smashed and I asked one of my MV buddies about the led lights ?
He said they were to much $ and would look funny on a 800 series truck .
So I got new standard lights from rapco and asked him if they were American?
He said they were exactly the ones he sold to the government for $70 and they were mine for $39 each so I said send them .
well they are Chinese knockoffs and now I am back to square one thinking about new LED lights
He said they were to much $ and would look funny on a 800 series truck .
So I got new standard lights from rapco and asked him if they were American?
He said they were exactly the ones he sold to the government for $70 and they were mine for $39 each so I said send them .
well they are Chinese knockoffs and now I am back to square one thinking about new LED lights
DoctorCheney223
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That's what I figured but I just wanted to be 100% before purchasing anything. I really don't plan on using the vehicle at night but it would look much nicer going down the Las Vegas Strip with those lights
thanks,
Ron
wsucougarx
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Just picked up a set off of ebay including the housings....brand new. They are truck lite's 07379. Probably going to turn around and sell them. Anyone interested?
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russ81
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Are they the same diameter as the M35 head lamps, and how much do you want for them? PM me.
PsycoBob
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LED headlamps are expensive for several reasons. I'll ignore the advantages and disadvantages of supply- not needing a huge stack of filiment bulbs on hand... and not having a single spare LED lamp when one dies.
Single LED's can't (yet) match the brightness of a 50w+ halogen, so you need to gang them up.
Halogen's don't mind running at 300+ degrees, led's die at 150 or so. Makes for a pretty major design problem, between running the led's at a fraction of their rated power and not having room for a huge heatsink in a traditional 7" headlamp housing. Efficiency drops pretty sharply at higher temperatures, too.
Electronics are needed to keep the LED headlamps safe- a marker light can just use a resistor set to control current thru the LED's, but they only draw a few watts. That headlamp is probably 30w or higher. A switching power supply can have 90% efficiency or greater, reducing heat problems in the headlamp, but increasing cost.
Multiple LED's mean multiple reflectors/lenses, increasing design complexity. Making a light that'll reliably pass DOT with that many light sources is rather hard. Making a halogen bulb from well-known spec is laughably easy in comparison. (interesting note: I've never heard of the US DOT ever actually inspecting a headlamp design prior to it getting stuck in a production vehicle. The industry seems to be mostly self-regulating on this one.)
High-flux LED's are pretty rare. only 2-3 manufacturers of 5w+ LED's, and they aren't cheap. I've got several flashlights with 15w monsters in them, and the led's are nearly $30 each. Electronics to run a LED at 4amps are pretty pricy, too. If those LED's are each run on an independent driver in case of burnout, that means 10x 24v-3.8v drivers, each running at several amps on the low side. Peak current in the driver can be higher than 20a. High-temp parts and derating for the lack of cooling in that housing means expensive parts. If you want a 12v/24v light, it means even more expensive parts. If the lights are on during cranking, they will need to survive both high-voltage spikes from the starter windings and trying to run at very low voltages- increasing current draw on the 12v/24v side of the driver.
The more I learn about the challenges engineers face, the more I respect them. My car's ecu has to survive 160 degrees, and run everything at 7v during cranking.
Single LED's can't (yet) match the brightness of a 50w+ halogen, so you need to gang them up.
Halogen's don't mind running at 300+ degrees, led's die at 150 or so. Makes for a pretty major design problem, between running the led's at a fraction of their rated power and not having room for a huge heatsink in a traditional 7" headlamp housing. Efficiency drops pretty sharply at higher temperatures, too.
Electronics are needed to keep the LED headlamps safe- a marker light can just use a resistor set to control current thru the LED's, but they only draw a few watts. That headlamp is probably 30w or higher. A switching power supply can have 90% efficiency or greater, reducing heat problems in the headlamp, but increasing cost.
Multiple LED's mean multiple reflectors/lenses, increasing design complexity. Making a light that'll reliably pass DOT with that many light sources is rather hard. Making a halogen bulb from well-known spec is laughably easy in comparison. (interesting note: I've never heard of the US DOT ever actually inspecting a headlamp design prior to it getting stuck in a production vehicle. The industry seems to be mostly self-regulating on this one.)
High-flux LED's are pretty rare. only 2-3 manufacturers of 5w+ LED's, and they aren't cheap. I've got several flashlights with 15w monsters in them, and the led's are nearly $30 each. Electronics to run a LED at 4amps are pretty pricy, too. If those LED's are each run on an independent driver in case of burnout, that means 10x 24v-3.8v drivers, each running at several amps on the low side. Peak current in the driver can be higher than 20a. High-temp parts and derating for the lack of cooling in that housing means expensive parts. If you want a 12v/24v light, it means even more expensive parts. If the lights are on during cranking, they will need to survive both high-voltage spikes from the starter windings and trying to run at very low voltages- increasing current draw on the 12v/24v side of the driver.
The more I learn about the challenges engineers face, the more I respect them. My car's ecu has to survive 160 degrees, and run everything at 7v during cranking.
Maverick1701
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looks sharp!
bryan70546
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I wonder how he has the park lights (turn signals fronts) on and the driving lights on at the same time are am i missing something.
Somemedic
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Gotta have LED's..?
I see them on my engine at station 4, rated for 10,000 or 100,000 or whatever hrs and Ive noticed that a ton of them are burnt out. the truck theyre on is a 2006 with low miles and low hours. They shouldnt be out yet by any means but theyve gone bad and need to be replaced. As far as those loony prices you can buy trailer LEDs, taillights, replacement 1127's that go right into the incandecent socket, for just a little more than the older standbys at auto zone or a truck stop. Look cool? sure do. I'd love to replace the lights in my truck and take some of the load off of my alt but I dont feel the reliability is there yet. Surely not for that price.
FWIW my buddy who does fleet maintainence for several fire depts went to a truck stop shop counter to get some parts and noticed a large box on a pallet full of bad LEDs. I guess trucklite has some LED's guarenteed for life and the box was for my buddy to replace various LED's on some of the trucks he services. There wasnt a specific color but the bulbs werent all that old.
I see them on my engine at station 4, rated for 10,000 or 100,000 or whatever hrs and Ive noticed that a ton of them are burnt out. the truck theyre on is a 2006 with low miles and low hours. They shouldnt be out yet by any means but theyve gone bad and need to be replaced. As far as those loony prices you can buy trailer LEDs, taillights, replacement 1127's that go right into the incandecent socket, for just a little more than the older standbys at auto zone or a truck stop. Look cool? sure do. I'd love to replace the lights in my truck and take some of the load off of my alt but I dont feel the reliability is there yet. Surely not for that price.
FWIW my buddy who does fleet maintainence for several fire depts went to a truck stop shop counter to get some parts and noticed a large box on a pallet full of bad LEDs. I guess trucklite has some LED's guarenteed for life and the box was for my buddy to replace various LED's on some of the trucks he services. There wasnt a specific color but the bulbs werent all that old.
Hammer
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Yeah, like mentioned above, they work great IF they are made to work within their designed parameters.
Think about it, you are putting out how much light from how SMALL of a source? It may be a very low wattage, but with that small of a form factor, the heat has to go somewhere.
Seems that most of the lights out there do not really take this into account very well.
Now, my kick butt Streamlight LED flashlight gets used at least every day, had it over a year, and works great, every time. And it is brighter then most other flashlights, even some bigger $ ones.
LEDs will come into their own, but they need more time to figure it out. Especially how to mass manufacture them and keep the costs down.
I personally LOVE the idea of LEDs for trailer lights. Very little additional load on the truck, and a lot brighter.
Btw, look at the super bright LED lights used on cop cars. They see lots of hours of use, and are intensely bright! The cost is exponential, but I bet they have all the proper design as well.
Think about it, you are putting out how much light from how SMALL of a source? It may be a very low wattage, but with that small of a form factor, the heat has to go somewhere.
Seems that most of the lights out there do not really take this into account very well.
Now, my kick butt Streamlight LED flashlight gets used at least every day, had it over a year, and works great, every time. And it is brighter then most other flashlights, even some bigger $ ones.
LEDs will come into their own, but they need more time to figure it out. Especially how to mass manufacture them and keep the costs down.
I personally LOVE the idea of LEDs for trailer lights. Very little additional load on the truck, and a lot brighter.
Btw, look at the super bright LED lights used on cop cars. They see lots of hours of use, and are intensely bright! The cost is exponential, but I bet they have all the proper design as well.
kurtkds
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No they wouldn't. There is no heat being generated by the LEDs themselves.
I have the winterization cover for my deuce and it has the lexan covers over the headlight area so even when I had the standard bulbs, the snow would build up on the lexan covers instead of the lights.
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kurtkds
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That is an optical illusion.. LOL
I had the hazards on and I timed the picture to capture them when the were lit up.
bryan70546
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i wish we could run the park lamps and driving lights at the same time. I just put a set of led rears from a hummer on my deuce and love them got them new of ebay for cheap .it was your pics that got me wanting them now i just need the fronts and the black out light.
wsucougarx
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Just listed a set of these truck lite LED's in the classifieds if anyone is interested.
engineer233
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What is the Truck-Lite p/n for those headlights?
kurtkds
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Westex
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Has anybody purchased a Trilliant LED Work Lamp in 24V (manufacturer or distributor is Grote Industries), and given it a whirl. I've read it is as brilliant as sunlight without the 'arc' glare of an HID.