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LMTV Air Conditioner

Third From Texas

Well-known member
2,710
6,349
113
Location
Corpus Christi Texas
Very similar. And not that far off from the $1550 shipped I paid for the correct cab unit. They have gone up this year and as we get closer to summer..... it's a supply and demand thing. That RedDot unit may be $600 cheaper than current asking price for the military unit but the supply likely outstrips the demand. That's kinda my point - yeah it might cost a *bit* more but for correct fitment it's negligible when you consider the additional labor in moving existing holes in the cab, adapting wiring, etc. And throw in that I would like it to have the stock appearance...... no brainer for me.

Rgr all.

As you said once, we all have variations of time and money. I'm retired on a fixed income, but have plenty of time.
 

Mavcaster

Well-known member
201
422
63
Location
Maryland
@m-35tom I gather the site you have linked is your own so you'll probably be able to point me in the right direction. I would really like to get the ball rolling on adding a unit to my 1088 while I am in the process of squaring away the cab but just can't do it all at once. A $300 difference for a 8000 BTU gain seems like a no brainer but would like to get y'alls take on pros/cons between gen1/gen2.
 

Mavcaster

Well-known member
201
422
63
Location
Maryland
I’m in Florida and I installed a Gen 1, and after trying everything to get it to cool better I gave up and ripped out just the Gen 1 unit and put a Gen 2 unit in and now in here Florida it’s makes it so cold I wish it had a lower than low fan setting.
That’s excellent feedback thanks for that. I’m on the east coast and frequent Georgia where I am from which gets very hot so good to know!
 

SunValley

New member
3
1
3
Location
Harrisonville NJ
We have installed a couple of the A/C units in to LMTV's. This will require the condensor unit, the A/C compressor, some custom made lines, brackets to mount the compressor and the front crank pulley to run the belt for the compressor. We had to custom make the brackets and the front pulley. If anyone is interested, I can probably make another set, not sure on the cost though.
I’ll take one!
 

WassawBound

Member
42
79
18
Location
St Augustine, FL
I'm having to dig into a system installed by a previous owner. Is it safe to assume these relays live inside the evaporator box? I have the gen two unit.

It appears the last guys did a poor job on the install. Naked wires rubbing metal edges in the firewall. I have put gauges on it and it should have enough gas to click on. I can hot wire the compressor and it runs and cools from 87 to 64deg, 61 deg after adding a can. If I short the high pressure switch the compressor clicks on. My switch is binary although my system has electric fans. I'm considering changing to a trinary switch. I believe thats the proper switch for an electric fan setup.

When hooked up my high pressure gauge hardly moves at all. I think I'm dealing with a clogged expansion valve. I heard it's common for systems with expansion valves to move slower though. So maybe I'm not being patient. The low pressure gauge will move much faster that the high side.

So far I've dug up to the TXV. It's located below the brake knobs. I'm just doing a little each day. It's hot as hell here in FL.
 

Attachments

GeneralDisorder

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,584
4,336
113
Location
Portland, OR
I went with a more common trinary switch threaded into an adapter w/shrader on the drier. The stock military system has seperate fan switch and high pressure switch. I don't think the original systems had low pressure switches. The new systems in the A1P2's have intelligent monitoring boxes that monitor system pressure and temperature.
 

WassawBound

Member
42
79
18
Location
St Augustine, FL
I went with a more common trinary switch threaded into an adapter w/shrader on the drier. The stock military system has seperate fan switch and high pressure switch. I don't think the original systems had low pressure switches. The new systems in the A1P2's have intelligent monitoring boxes that monitor system pressure and temperature.
From that Trinary vs Binary video, I gather both types measure high and low pressure. One just has a input from the relay to also control the fan via temp or override switch. In my truck the fan stays on all the time. It's loud mounted on the cab like that. I'm tempted to move it. Sometimes I turn the AC off just so I don't have to listen to it. 1. I may move the condenser down by the radiator like it should be. 2. I may try the trinary switch to see if it gives me a break from listening to it. 3. Do both.

While I have the system evacuated it's the time to get things done. Our alternators are a weak point. So why put that constant fan burden on it if I don't have to?

I ford water way less often than I use my AC. Lol
 

WassawBound

Member
42
79
18
Location
St Augustine, FL
I went with a more common trinary switch threaded into an adapter w/shrader on the drier. The stock military system has seperate fan switch and high pressure switch. I don't think the original systems had low pressure switches. The new systems in the A1P2's have intelligent monitoring boxes that monitor system pressure and temperature.
I still haven't figures out why my switch has tripped. If I jumper it the compressor runs. It has plenty of pressure. Now I'm wondering if higher pressure is built up in the dryer but not at my gauges (can that happen) or if the switch has failed. Do these switches need a reset in some way? So many questions.

My local shop won't touch the truck. I've concluded I can probably throw parts at it cheaper than time at the big boy shop.
 

WassawBound

Member
42
79
18
Location
St Augustine, FL
From that Trinary vs Binary video, I gather both types measure high and low pressure. One just has a input from the relay to also control the fan via temp or override switch. In my truck the fan stays on all the time. It's loud mounted on the cab like that. I'm tempted to move it. Sometimes I turn the AC off just so I don't have to listen to it. 1. I may move the condenser down by the radiator like it should be. 2. I may try the trinary switch to see if it gives me a break from listening to it. 3. Do both.

While I have the system evacuated it's the time to get things done. Our alternators are a weak point. So why put that constant fan burden on it if I don't have to?

I ford water way less often than I use my AC. Lol
I went with a more common trinary switch threaded into an adapter w/shrader on the drier. The stock military system has seperate fan switch and high pressure switch. I don't think the original systems had low pressure switches. The new systems in the A1P2's have intelligent monitoring boxes that monitor system pressure and temperature.
I reviewed the diagram. I guess you're right it only says "high" pressure switch. I don't see low pressure mentioned. Do they think you should assume that's a binary switch with both high and low pressure protection? It's hard to know if this engineer had thier coffee that day. Ha ha.
 
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