Aernan
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Is it possible to get custom shafts with that joint?
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LMTV Alternator Disaster, engine now catastophic
- Thread starter aleigh
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DOUBLE ALT
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The minor change of the battery cable makes it a lot easier to maintain. The current way it is wired is more difficult. Several have converted and they are having no problems. They now have 2 volt gauges to see that the charging of the 12 volt and the charge of the 24 is working. Someone in the Military got a real sales job done to them.
17.5 Million cars sold in the US in 2016. None with reverse polarity. None with load control. If all that extra expensive electrical parts are so good, why is it giving so much trouble? Just saying.
KISS Keep It Simple Stupid.
17.5 Million cars sold in the US in 2016. None with reverse polarity. None with load control. If all that extra expensive electrical parts are so good, why is it giving so much trouble? Just saying.
KISS Keep It Simple Stupid.
aleigh
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I don't think it's fair to compare 17.5 million cars sold with 1 battery to a tactical truck that had a lot of program design requirements that cars do not. There's nothing wrong with the battery setup. There's something wrong with the alternator bolts backing out and something wrong with the alternators only sometimes having bushings to somewhat isolate from the mount.
I have not actually gone and measured but I would not be surprised of the long bolt was just the wrong size. Has someone done this? It almost seems like double alt was suggesting this was the case.
Like they went metric but someone drilled a SAE hole. Or the bolts are not shouldered properly and the mount is resting on threads in a way it shouldn't. Just a hunch. We saw this same thing in Jeeps with track bar mounts on the JK. The track bar mounting bolt between the track bar and the front axle, the holes in the bushing and axle were 9/16th but someone came along and ran 14mm bolts through and wacked on a bunch of torque. For bonus points the shear surfaces are resting on threads. Works for awhile until predictably you bang it down enough roads and the hole rounds out.
Whatever SAE bolt we fit in there seemed to fit better than the old bolt, anecdotally. Like we had to lightly tap it in.
I have not actually gone and measured but I would not be surprised of the long bolt was just the wrong size. Has someone done this? It almost seems like double alt was suggesting this was the case.
Like they went metric but someone drilled a SAE hole. Or the bolts are not shouldered properly and the mount is resting on threads in a way it shouldn't. Just a hunch. We saw this same thing in Jeeps with track bar mounts on the JK. The track bar mounting bolt between the track bar and the front axle, the holes in the bushing and axle were 9/16th but someone came along and ran 14mm bolts through and wacked on a bunch of torque. For bonus points the shear surfaces are resting on threads. Works for awhile until predictably you bang it down enough roads and the hole rounds out.
Whatever SAE bolt we fit in there seemed to fit better than the old bolt, anecdotally. Like we had to lightly tap it in.
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I just watching all this go by, being from a time in the past.
Just thinkin of a Deuce which was designed with these
to get it right with what was known, by people dedicated to that last little
thousandths or tenths.
LMTV was designed beginning late 80's, with all the people and puters
workin to judge what would be a new truck the new people could drive.
Just thinkin of a Deuce which was designed with these
to get it right with what was known, by people dedicated to that last little
thousandths or tenths.
LMTV was designed beginning late 80's, with all the people and puters
workin to judge what would be a new truck the new people could drive.
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The niehoff alternators are used in the majority of military vehicles with good results. The reverse polarity box protects against incompetent battery installers. That function is irrelevant of the alternator used. Civilian owners can choose to eliminate this function, the military will not. A lot if the lmtvs have 20 plus years of hard military service. Components like alternators will fail eventually. The military knows this and chooses to get rid of that trucks rather than dump a ton of money into them. If the dual alt functioned like the niehoff and was an easy direct replacement it would be an easier sell.
coachgeo
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Yes. Basically any driveline shop that has done shafts for Big Rigs, yet as well has someone on staff that has done some dabbling in High Angle Drivelines for offroaders. Think exploring shops in that direction will net you a better price than going opposite direction and starting by looking for an Offroad driveline shop with lots of experience in high angle drivelines .... that has dabbled with some big rig shafts. Would bet either should be able to build you a good shaft with RZeppa.
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Yes, though you'll have to replace the yokes on the transfer case and axles, I think.
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Which bushing are you talking about? The large steel "roll pin" / split sleeve bushing in the rear bottom ear of the alternator? That's the only bushing in any mounting holes on the alternator or brackets on mine. If you were missing it, you would have big problems. It not only makes the hole smaller so that the alternator doesn't move around radially, but it also slides in the ear of the alternator so that the long bolt tightens down axially to clamp the front bottom alternator ear tight against the curved cast bracket.
Aernan
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Aernan
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Technically yes, however I don't know how hard it is to change. I haven't messed with these axles, but when I rebuilt the rear 1-ton Chevy axle the nut on the yoke was very difficult to get off (it's like a 1" nut on the back of the pinion, and it's torqued to an incredibly high value, and there is no good way to hold it still). I also don't know what other things that might affect (e.g. does the pinion have a crush washer in it that would affect gear alignment or need to be replaced by taking apart the axle/gears?).
There is also the question of whether an off the shelf yoke (is it still called a yoke at that point?) for that style of u-joint is available, or do we have to have one custom made? The military testing reports don't elaborate about where it came from, how it was made, what parts were used, etc.
This has kind of been a topic in the back of my head for a while. Ironically I haven't had a lot of time to research it because this year I spent so much time replacing the engine.
Aernan
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Well when Aesomeness get around to more research on this please do share it. I'm not looking forward to getting my drive shafts rebalanced or rebuilt every 15k miles.
I did notice that my truck has 16k on the odo and it's starting to play up like one of the previous posters.
I did notice that my truck has 16k on the odo and it's starting to play up like one of the previous posters.
aleigh
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So just an update but as soon as I limped it into my friends place and then made it up to Bellingham, I was done - made the seahawks game and then came down with a whipper of a cold/flu/whatever. I've been down all week, and haven't even seen the truck. Couldn't get out of bed for the first few days. I am still feeling poorly but I am going to try to get down today to get started on it, hopefully at least get the rad out to see what can be done about it. Have the new water pump from Erik's. I wish I had known I was going to be sick when I ordered it overnight shipping!
aleigh
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Just as predicted, one of the blades threw a chunk into the rad. Another blade has a little tear in it. Kind of looks like it just hit some FOD but wow talk about bad luck. Got a garden hose in the radiator and it streams right out of the hole.
wandering neurons
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Thought: A nearly foot long bolt came out of the alternator toward the front of the motor. What's the possibility that it got flung into the spinning fan, damaging (then breaking) the blades?
All of this would explain the missing bolts on my alternator when I picked up my M1081, as well as the three holding the compressor and power steering pump. Reinstalled all, but will check, recheck, and think about safety wiring. And get drive shafts (and head) examined. I did check, I've got the stamp for the upgraded shafts too.
aleigh
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When the bolt came out, it was the old fan. I had the alt repaired, then the new fan was put on. Then drove the truck more and had this failure the next day (and hundreds of miles) later.
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Guess I should diagnose my new found vibration at medium speed. I think it’s from a tire, but while I’m at it I may as well test both drive shafts, check the alt, check the fan clutch while I mount the a/c drive pully. Glad you made it to the game in the next few weeks if you need any bushings made for your alt I should have my lathe up and running if I can ever find an affordable d1-6 4 jaw chuck.
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Grizzly G9827 - 10" 4-Jaw Independent Chuck D1-6
180 bucks at
http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-...827?utm_campaign=zPage&utm_source=grizzly.com
Shars, or which lathe? and this is good to see.
http://www.tools-n-gizmos.com/specs/Lathe_Spindle_Mount.html
180 bucks at
http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-...827?utm_campaign=zPage&utm_source=grizzly.com
Shars, or which lathe? and this is good to see.
http://www.tools-n-gizmos.com/specs/Lathe_Spindle_Mount.html
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Maybe the old bolt was wedged somewhere and came loose.
aleigh
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So in terms of getting the radiator out (it's an assembly with the charge cooler), 160 lbs, I realized that... I have the LMHC crane. Turns out if you put that in the front corner pocket of the bed and remove the air intake stack it swings nice over the engine. I don't know if the weights work out but it almost looks like it could pull its own engine. Either way the rad came out super easy.
It also turns out that the upper bolts for the alternator mount are integral with the water pump, so my water pump replaces them, which means I can get back to the stock bolt sizes (since they were screwed up when they snapped off and the mechanic drilled them out and tapped a larger size). So there's that I guess. The engine is real easy to work on when the rad is out and you can just stand in the hole.
Something clearly hit the fan, to look at the blades. At least I'm satisfied that is what happened.
It also turns out that the upper bolts for the alternator mount are integral with the water pump, so my water pump replaces them, which means I can get back to the stock bolt sizes (since they were screwed up when they snapped off and the mechanic drilled them out and tapped a larger size). So there's that I guess. The engine is real easy to work on when the rad is out and you can just stand in the hole.
Something clearly hit the fan, to look at the blades. At least I'm satisfied that is what happened.