Aernan
Member
- 510
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- 18
- Location
- San Jose/California
That MHC is killer. I think I got to get one now.
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Tell me more about this wheel balancing using airsoft bbsOr just check your drive shafts. My truck started random shaking, found the rear shaft has .02 movement. Probably more but too lazy to set my indicators up for a more precise test when I already know it’s bad. Wheel balancing can be done with airsoft pellets in the wheels. I found with the rim locks in that there is no way for them to get into the ctis.
Not much to it. You open up the tire, and put a bunch of airsoft pellets or ball bearings in. I think the number thrown around is 1oz of pellets for every 13lb of tire, which means if you use airsoft pellets you need a lot of them (1/2 gallon?).Tell me more about this wheel balancing using airsoft bbs
Mine was exactly that, frozen and broke. What I did was hit it with a hammer to break it free, and then I used a large/thick screwdriver to reach in the hole and pry against the head of the screw in order to rotate the clutch housing until the bolts lined up with the holes. It worked way better than I expected it to.Got the air clutch replaced. The holes were not lined up with the bolts on the old one, so bodged up an air supply and it came loose after I hit it with a hammer a few times, thankfully. Wonder how you get one of those off if the clutch is busted and won't release.
Yeah, that 4th nut is not ideal, but I've removed it and reinstalled it several times and it's not that bad. There is a path up from below and behind that you can reach in with a wrench, and install it in 1/8 turns.That fourth stud/nut deal that bolts it into the water pump is a hateful thing. I got it by taking the water pump off but I wonder how people get to it with everything still on/in the truck.
Sometimes it is best to accidently swap LOCTITE for lipstick!!I carry loctite around like women carry tubes of lipstick in their purses.
The thing I am trying to grok here is how the suggestion to use a pair of shorter bolts would work like he was suggesting. Since it has to go through.
You have the exact pattern of symptoms, including cracking the water pump housing, as the military studies and other posters (including myself). You ultimately won't know until you get the driveshafts checked, or break more stuff, but the logic favors you having the same vibration problems, not a different one. Those are just odds, so it isn't impossible, though.So earlier on this thread there was a big debate about my failures, people talking about bolts coming loose, vibrations, all that. I examined the old water pump closely and it failed by cracking on the front cover plate (A $40 part). This is more evidence towards my original theory that the pump was damaged after the engine over-heated due to dropping the belt.
My "cover" is what cracked. We're talking about the same thing. I replaced the cover (which I have been calling housing to differentiate between it and non-waterpump parts like hoses and fittings), and then broke a bunch more stuff after that.The housing didn't crack. The cover cracked.
The military studies answered that question in depth, with pictures, when theirs cracked exactly like that after something like 80 miles into their test.And you think this static part cracked because it was shook? I'm scratching my head at that one. Why that and not the oil pan, valve cover gasket, or innumerable other static parts also bolted to the same engine.
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