LMTV power increase

[Pointman0853]

Thanks Snowtrac.

I looked up Blaylock Turbos and just had a pleasant conversation with Jim Blaylock, the owner. I gave him my engine number (3116) and he promised to follow up with additional information on their proprietary technology, the 'switch blade' turbo. This is a boost limiting device built into a larger Garret housing that allows the turbo to create sufficient
off-the-line power, but then gives additional boost at higher RPM's after a smaller housing turbo runs out of wind. Interesting concept and videos can be viewed on their FB page at Blaylock Turbos.
I will report back here as to what he prescribes for my 3116 application.

Pointman

 

[snowtrac nome]

good he was out of the office the day I called and I never got a call back.

 

[simp5782]

Will bump this with another trick that does help. You can crimp the wastegate line and just zip tie is closed. Or you can take your wastegate off the truck. Cut the rod in half and cut some of it off. Take a die and put threads on the cut wastegate rod on both sides and add thread a turnbuckle onto both of them so it is about even with the original rod length. This will allow to you to turn the turn buckle to get a better setting on shortening to keep it shut until you want it to open

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[Third From Texas]

Will bump this with another trick that does help. You can crimp the wastegate line and just zip tie is closed. Or you can take your wastegate off the truck. Cut the rod in half and cut some of it off. Take a die and put threads on the cut wastegate rod on both sides and add thread a turnbuckle onto both of them so it is about even with the original rod length. This will allow to you to turn the turn buckle to get a better setting on shortening to keep it shut until you want it to open

That's an interesting concept, but I know just enough about turbos to be dangerous.

So in essence, you be running the turbo at max boost at all times?

The Road Warrior in me likes this idea...

[FONT=&quot]"I live, I die! I live again!
[/FONT]
"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JHJnE4H0idQ

 

[simp5782]

It retulates the amount of flow at maximum boost. Allowing bleedoff once its reached. Well let's just keep that all in the motor or with the adjustable wastegate rod you can make it have more pressure to force the wastegate open than the stock setting. We used this old trick on the 7.3 idi diesels when they first came out with a turbo in 93. Give it a little motivation to get some more boost pressure. A lot of folks on the bigger cat motors just plug the line off or zip tie it shut.

 

[Ned81]

I did just this on mine. No change to the governor parts, but we did take the android valve out of the equation. Turbo change and fuel pressure/timing was all that was needed. And it is SO worth it. Huge difference!

I k no ow this is an old thread but I’m having a power issue and want to take the android valve out. Do you remember how that is done? I can not find any info


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[Ronmar]

You say you have a power issue, have you confirmed the basics first like baseline fuel pressure and boost pressure, or if the aneroid is actually working before hacking it out? You could have weak primary fuel, weak turbo or leaking boost somewhere, and the aneroid is just fine...

They describe a basic test of the aneroid in the top end alignment procedure, as you basically need to add some compressed Air to its sample port on the governor in order to allow the governor to move to the full rack position... there are some utube vids of top end alignment that show this step...

Diesel isnt a great lubricant and dumping too much to quickly into the cylinders, washes cylinders and increases wear, not to mention diluting lube oil. Diesel in crankcase is how crankcase explosions happen...