Losing fuel prime many things done already, still won't run unless bled

[dependable]

Not only do you want a J code pump, but the actual model number for your truck. There is some interchangeability, but there are several different model applications for a DB2 IP in the 6.2. Not sure what original CUCV pump was, but I believe the DB2 4544 is what I put in one of mine, and it seems fine.

There are some differences in fuel volume and timing, manual vs auto transmission, etc. A good injector shop should be aware of this though, so if they know what truck it is going in , should be OK.

I tried to link to chart of DB2 pump numbers linked to older thread here, but seems it does not work anymore. I'm sure it is out there somewhere though.

 

[drewzee87t]

I think the 4544 is what supercedes most of the CUCV IP's. I think that's what they will build it to, but I will have a call with them in the new year to be sure. We were talking part numbers and the rep from DC was talking supercedes numbers also, so I am pretty sure it I had this https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/list-of-stanadyne-db2-pumps.110581/ I might have made a better choice. Maybe not. I did call to make sure before ordering. At any rate, it should be nice for winter tomorrow, I think I might yank that pump and get ready for the new one

The link for awesome thread from scoutdoors1000

List of Stanadyne DB2 pumps

Sorry if this is viewed as a double post (I posted the list in my M1009 suddenly died thread) but I think this information might be helpful to people with injection pump issues. Below is a list of Stanadyne DB2829 pumps which can be helpful. In general think of GM having 2 pumps a year. One is...

www.steelsoldiers.com

Best info I have found so far....wish I knew then what I know now. Thanks all

 

[Sharecropper]

The original CUCV 6.2 OEM pump is Stanadyne DB28294267. GM part #14077179. John Hucksdorf at Hucksdorf Diesel can supply this pump completely rebuilt to OEM specs and flow tested.

I haven’t read this whole thread so I will ask the question - have you checked the rubber fuel supply hose that attaches to the pump inlet under the intake? If your hose is original, it’s probably dry rotted. I’ve known this hose to be deteriorated just enough to not leak fuel, but enough to suck air. Just a thought.
Hope this helps.

 

[drewzee87t]

...still waiting on the new pump......

/me checks calendar again

 

[drewzee87t]

Okay folks....

Thanks again for everyone's help esp CUCVRus. The new pump arrived last Saturday and work/weather prevented work until today. The pump is in and it is running great. I haven't put the intake back yet as still checking for leaks and stuff.

Diesel Performance treated me great with this situation, since they could have really been dicks being that I ordered the wrong pump model, but they were champs about it. I sent them my original pump off the truck, which they rebuilt and sent back, including the serial tag off the old pump. The new pump is a 4544. Had a couple of phone calls with them to get it straightened out and it did take a couple weeks, but they were super about it. I just need to send them back the 4502 they originally sent me and we are all square.

Again, I have seen some bashing on these guys (DPC in Memphis) on the webs, and here. Not my experience at all with them, they were super and it looks like I am all fixed up.

I would recommend people just take the time to remove your original pump and send it in, regardless who the builder is, that way you can't make mistakes like getting the wrong pump....

Thanks again

drew

 

[cucvrus]

Glad to hear that you have the vehicle up and running. I agree with the post. Always someone out there complaining that their ice cream was too cold. But in the long run when the whole story comes to the surface the installer also played a part in the fail of the service. Like you said ordering the wrong part or just not getting the correct information to the supplier. I had brand new injection pumps fail. I think brand new and stored 20 years played a part in that. So I used the last 2 brand new ones I had as cores and sent them to DCP Memphis for rebuild along with an explanation. Never had a problem. 6.9. 7.3, 5.7, 6.2. along with some Kumotsu , and a Kawasaki loader. All pumps returned and installed with no or minor issues. That's the way it is here. Have a Great Day. Be safe.

 

[Thomas_G]

I replaced my injection pump, installed spin on filter set up and a 4 psi electric pump inline. Mine did same. The shaft seals where bad. Now it starts up right away. I also put new alternators And battery cables.

 

[drewzee87t]

Yeah, well I am back. I can't get this pump to stop leaking. It appears to be leaking from the 5/16 hard pipes. I put these buggers on as tight as I could on the bench. Now it's mounted and I am on there with crow's feet and all kinda swivel and stuff and a breaker bar. Every one of them suckers is tight as hell. And it's leaking.

Appears to be out of the bottom lines, specifically the one that would be about 6:30 in the attached pic (Pic is a different pump that's conveniently on my bench). After tightening these things over and over until I am afraid of breaking something, it still leaks. It actually looks like the leak is coming from the housing itself where or right near the sawtooth ring is, I guess that's the housing and the low pressure fuel pump (yellow highlight). Is it possible for this to leak or should I keep trying to tighten that line more? I am about to lose it with this little project. Runs good, starts right up and leaks.

Any ideas? Thanks

 

[cucvrus]

Do you have the pump back out? Not sure. I never had one leak. A leak can be hard to find. It may just be pooling at that low area and coming from higher up. Hard to tell from afar. Good Luck. Remain Calm.

 

[dependable]

The outputs at the bottom can be a pain. If they are all really tight, it is possible one is cross threaded, which would suck. But it is a tight spot, and if you have crowsfoots that are a little bulky on the sides, maybe they are part of the problem. Quality crows foot wrenches and good quality rachet extensions help a lot.

You may have to go back in there to see what line it is leaking out of, been there and know how frustrating that is. But is also a normal part of mechanicing, ok to get frustrated, but try not to give up.

 

[drewzee87t]

Thanks. I am not giving up by any means but this thing has stretched my patience. I am "in there" as I have the intake removed, pump installed and running. I can see what's going on with a mirror. I have used a trouble light as well as using a high power flashlight.

I am going to keep seeing if I can find any slack in any of these lines but they are on really tight. I am using a 5/16 crows foot line wrench on a 3/8 with a swivel and a normal long extension on a short swivel ratchet 3/8. I can get on every one of these lines and have several times. I am lining up the wrench and then using a persuader pipe on the ratchet so I got about 2 feet of leverage on this. I am laying on my stomach over the engine with my legs in the sky while performing this maneuver

I just don't want to have to send another pump back and do this again. Twice enough. It's just this leak and I can zip up the intake and enjoy.

Thanks guys

 

[cucvrus]

OK. Quick thought. Is it possible the center feed line is leaking? Just a thought. Wanted to reach out. Good Luck.

 

[drewzee87t]

it was one of the bottom lines, the one at the 6:30 position. I went through all of them again and that one still had some turn left. All checked out and leak free. Sorry for the panic attack !!

Thanks!

 

[drewzee87t]

And I am back.... the leak continues....

Last episode I tightened one remaining line and the leaking stopped. I ran the truck for about an hour, no leaks. Ran it for a 1/2 hour later that night. No leaks. I replaced the intake and zipped everything up a couple days later when weather permitted. I started the truck and it's leaking, same place.

Intake removed again, looking for the leak. It just kind of weeps in there. Every line on this is brutally tight. I looked up the specs and it says 60 ft-lb for the lines at the IP. These are wayyyyy tighter than that. I can't get any more budge out of any of these lines and pushed so hard on the last one that the crows foot is stuck on there and I can't get it off.

I do NOT think this is leaking at the lines. I cannot get in there very well but as best as I can tell with mirror and flashlight, checking while it's running without an intake (seems rather unsafe to me, but I was able to see). It doesn't behave like a line leak, and if it was on the lower lines, it would be dripping from the line, not the pump head. I even saw a video on youtube showing someone chasing a leak on a 6.5 and where there is a line leak it is obvious and it drips off the line, not the pump head. It appears to be leaking from where the transfer pump end cap is screwed onto the hydraulic head of the pump. Is it possible to get a leak here (e.g. bad rebuild?). Is there any way to test whether the pump itself is leaking internally or if it's a line? I can't do a video, hold a mirror and a flashlight while dangling over a running engine. I have highlighted where it looks to be weeping out below:



It looks like either way I need to pull this thing again, if only to get my wrench back. I am at a complete loss here. Please help.

Thanks

 

[cucvrus]

Conduct:
SteelSoldiers.Com is designed to be a family-friendly and clean website. The forum discussions can be lively and informative without degrading into vulgarity. As a registered SteelSoldiers.Com member, it is your responsibility to make sure that you.

Too tight can also create issues. It can compromise the fitting and the seat/seal of the lines. At this point I would remove the lines and closely inspect the seats of the pump and the lines. Hard telling what has gone wrong here. Carefully and as clean as possible is all I can recommend. And contacting Diesel Care is another option. But time is ticking by and these issues can get frustrating. They need to be addressed and helping with support from afar is about all I and others can do. Good Luck and Be Safe.

 

[drewzee87t]

Sorry, I have edited and didn't mean to offend.

I am leaning towards pressure testing through the returns into the tank to better observe where the leak is from. I will call DCP prior to testing to validate that. If that test is valid and passes, then I am onto hunt for new fuel tubes. I was reading that they really should only be used once per installed equipment as the seal at the fitting is unique to the fitting it is originally sealed to .

I was hoping someone would chime in with a bullet proof test that can prove whether it is the pump or the lines, as it is so far impossible to trace. I did get my crows foot back off there

Looks like I am on my own here. Thanks again.

 

[dependable]

I was reading that they really should only be used once per installed equipment as the seal at the fitting is unique to the fitting it is originally sealed to .

Are you referring to injector lines? It is OK to re use them if installing new IP or injectors, I have always done so with no problems. If you damaged them by over torquing as suggested in post 55, it might be another story.

I also recommend disassemble & inspect line ends & seats for any sign of distortion, at this point it is not so bad, you have the manifold off and have not fastened down the lines yet.

As to chasing source of leaks, perhaps spray down with brake-clean or similar to really get area dry, then watch carefully with good light. Even get helper to start it so you don't miss anything.

 

[dougco1]

Most likely you have a cracked injection line or two at the flare nut end from over manipulating, over tightening, or from good old vibration.

They are known for cracking at the nut. I replaced all of mine on the 1009 when I got it several years ago. I had 4 cracked ones when I pulled it apart and decided to replace them with all new ones.

A good shop can pressure test the lines for you so your not spending a small fortune on all new lines.

 

[cucvrus]

Any updates? Waiting for a resolution.

 

[drewzee87t]

Hey,

I was out of town for a week and weather and stuff. I had the afternoon today and decent weather. The leaks are not from the lines. I inspected running and off. I also wrapped lines in paper towel to try to isolate a line. None of the lines are leaking. The pump is leaking between the pump head and the transfer pump, as I suspected.

I tested with engine off and 8psi air into the return to pressurize the fuel inlet to the transfer pump. Drip, drip, drip.

Since there is at least one line damaged by me, I pulled the whole thing out, removed lines. Most of them are in bad shape, I will post pics tomorrow. I had figured I had a line or two bad, so I had found some used lines that were reasonably priced and picked up a set. They came in on Tuesday.

With no lines on the pump, I hooked up the fuel inlet and set the pump in the V of the engine, and put the air into the returns again, and drip drip drip. At least one bad seal in there. I am going to ask them to take it back and look it over. It shouldn't be leaking on the high or low pressure side. Shouldn't be leaking at all. GM manual has a leak test for right after rebuild, before putting on the test bench. Submerse pump in oil, block return, and put 20PSI into the fuel inlet. Look for bubbles. I just did this same test essentially and it fails.

Has anyone tried using the lines that are available new for a 6.5 with the long injectors successfully? I should probably just spring for new lines, but these ones say they "require some tweaking" to fit. Not sure if that's another nightmare waiting for me.