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Loud Bang Coming From the Rear (of my M1009)

ssdvc

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LOL!! OK, when I take a sharp curve or make a turn onto another road or into a driveway, I get a fairly loud bang coming from the rear area of my M1009. Doesn't matter which way I turn, left or right. I jacked it up and checked underneath to see if anything was broken or loose or out of place, but it all looked good. No play in the shafts either.

I put her in neutral and rotated each tire in both directions. It took about an inch before the tire would turn the driveshaft, but it was the same for each side. I did notice when I turned a wheel on one side the other side remained stationary. I am no master mechanic, but I thought when you turned one in one direction, the opposite wheel would turn in the other?? I am wrong?

Anyway, any guesses as to what could be causing the noise?
 

LT67

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Bowdon, GA
LOL!! OK, when I take a sharp curve or make a turn onto another road or into a driveway, I get a fairly loud bang coming from the rear area of my M1009. Doesn't matter which way I turn, left or right. I jacked it up and checked underneath to see if anything was broken or loose or out of place, but it all looked good. No play in the shafts either.

I put her in neutral and rotated each tire in both directions. It took about an inch before the tire would turn the driveshaft, but it was the same for each side. I did notice when I turned a wheel on one side the other side remained stationary. I am no master mechanic, but I thought when you turned one in one direction, the opposite wheel would turn in the other?? I am wrong?

Anyway, any guesses as to what could be causing the noise?
Your M1009 should have the infamous G80 "gov bomb" locker in the rear. It should NOT make any noise.

The G80 does not operate like a full time Detroit locker. It only locks both axles when more throttle is applied. Otherwise it operates like an open diff.
 

cucvrus

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They still use that same design rear differential in new GM trucks. They have held up well for many years. I am think SSDVC you have to remove the rear differential cover and inspect the oil and magnet inside for me to give you an educated guess. Also the front outer axle U joints. Check them with the front axle elevated and see if the are turning free and steering freely. Do you see rust and debris at the trunnion caps of the U joints. Check them all very closely. Good Luck. If it is a differential issue I still have 1 new M1009 rear differential in the crate.
 

ssdvc

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All, thanks for the responses. I will try and pull the cover this weekend and take some pictures.

Rick, if it is something serious, I may drive the 6 hours to you for some maintenance and repair. Don't trust anyone else. I just hope that rear didn't grenade itself. I have too much going on for that.

Hey, glad you're up and running again !
 

cucvrus

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Changing a complete rear is a fairly simple job. You will need 4 new U bolts and 8 nuts. But I have reused the U bolts and nuts in the past. Never had any issues. Good Luck. I look forward to your update. Feeling stronger everyday. Thank you.
 

ssdvc

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CT
Waiting for the report.
LOL!!! I haven't gotten to it yet. I just finished fixing my Case 6018 bucket loader (dead after her winters nap, turned out to be the starting circuit). Weather was good today, but normal work got in the way. Tomorrow is some minor back surgery, but I should be able to move well enough to get under the truck this weekend......if the weather holds out. I am trying.
 

ssdvc

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Location
CT
OK, doc said I couldn't do anything strenuous for two weeks and to keep a cold pack on my back for a few days . So I used an impact driver to remove the bolts and was laying on the cold floor. Conditions met !

Popped IMG_2369.JPGIMG_2366.JPGIMG_2369.JPGIMG_2366.JPG
 

ssdvc

Well-known member
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639
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Location
CT
So, the above was what I found. I am guessing this is No Bueno. Rick, can you PM me your email (I think I have it somewhere, but it's been a while). I need to negotiate a replacement for this mess and figure out the logistics of getting it up here.

One question for all the smart people. I think I know the answer, but I have to ask. How driveable is she in this condition?
 

LT67

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Bowdon, GA

ehuppert

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Upstate NY
In my opinion, not drivable! If it chunks up more pieces and locks up rear whilst driving........ Says the old man! Forty years ago I would have said drive on!
 

cucvrus

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Jonestown Pennsylvania
Lets clean it up real good and get new oil in it. You can drive it here. I will check with a friend of mine that rebuilds rears. I have a few M1009 rears for parts and if the spider gears are bad in yours I think we could get this fixed up. I done it before. It worked for many years. I don't think I am splitting atoms here. It is just gears and clean replacement gears will work much better. The magnet done it's job. At this point not a lot of excitement. I would pull the axles and replace the seals and check the outer axle axle bearings. But looks doable. Remain Calm all is Well. Parts are parts.
 

ssdvc

Well-known member
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93
Location
CT
OK, got the rear cleaned out and ready to bolt the cover back on an fill her up.

Two questions:
1. Do I need to use a paper gasket, paper and RTV, paper and Gasket Shellac, etc.
2. Which RTV do I use?
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I would clean the cover plate surface and the axle really good and use a paper gasket and the Permatex Right Stuff. I would fill it full and we can go from there. the axles will need pulled out and everything looked at. I will get a look at my parts rear and see if I have the 4 inner gears. Do you see any chipping on the ring and pinion gears? Let me know. If that is the case I so not have the tools to set the gears up. The small spider gears are not an issue if I have them. I am confident in my having them. The new crate axle is always an option. Check it out closely. Good Luck.
 

ssdvc

Well-known member
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Location
CT
RGR on the cover reinstall Rick, thanks. I don't see any chips on the ring or pinion, but I don't know about any cracks, so I can't be sure.
 
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