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Low power output Light on

mwilk1

New member
24
8
3
Location
texas
Sorry new here. I just purchased an Libby mep804a from auction. It shows up it quits raining and i get to play with it. I found a soggy check out sheet inside. It states missing a few parts rust in places Low power light on and has 2 bad Ground circuit interrupters. When i put batteries on it i fired it up it showed 400v a/c on gauge. Any time i have started it after says 400v while cranking but after that it shows like 25v while running and 400v while cranking only. Currently i am checking and fixing rat chewed wires but so far none of them seem to be no more then insulation chewed off. Still looking at those however. I read in other posts how to check VR and will do that soon. Yes so far all my parts say Libby on them. When i flip the A/C interrupt switch nothing visibly changes. The light does not come on nothing on gauges changes. Checking voltage and convenience plug it shows 14v AC. Flipping the battle short switch does nothing.

I have also noticed may have nothing to do with it but when i select preheat the engine cranks and runs.
I did find and download the Ts manual someone posted. Thanks for that it may help.
 

Ray70

Well-known member
2,595
5,912
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Location
West greenwich/RI
Sounds like you probably have an issue with the voltage regulator or it's components. Also sounds like you already know not to mix suppliers when replacing the VR components. As a side note, @kloppk makes his own replacement VR kits which are a great improvement over the OEM. If you end up needing to replace yours I'd suggest you check into his kit.
 

mwilk1

New member
24
8
3
Location
texas
I dont know.... i dont recall seeing one but wasnt looking for it. spent todays lunch break trying to get it off of its m200A1 trailer. Some very rusted bolts. Thought about a hot wrench.
 

mwilk1

New member
24
8
3
Location
texas
Good thing we have thousands in tools. A long rachet worked just fine. about bent the back up wrench but it came loose. As to the question about the fuse its not there. At least not next to it. I did not get a chance to look at anything else today. Tomorrow is scheduled to get it off the military trailer down to a more everyday trailer so i can bring it home. Getting it off the lower trailer will be easy compared. Then i can actually reach something to check it. LOL
 

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mwilk1

New member
24
8
3
Location
texas
Ok if i read my directions right.... Step H i get -10vdc. On J i get 280vac. ON L I get 3.2k ohms and in 50hz i get 2.5ohms to 10.5k ohms. So i need to find this Kloppk guy and buy a VR.
 

mwilk1

New member
24
8
3
Location
texas
Big hands fat fingers.... Little labels.... Works great! Seems to have fixed the crank in warm up in S1 switch also. On the original potentionmeter do we leave it or cut it out?
 

mwilk1

New member
24
8
3
Location
texas
ok continuing on... Installed VR at convenience outlet with cheap meter i have at home it had 120vac. Accross L1 and L3 that meter overloads at 200vac. Brought good meter from work between l1 and l3 i have 380vac between Low and any L i have 230vac. Thats wrong. Between low and any leg i should have 120vac. What am i missing? What should i check next?
 

kloppk

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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3,526
113
Location
Pepperell, Massachusetts
As I recall 208 and 416 is marked on the base and the plate has an arrow on it pointing to either 208 or 416.
The plate gets moved up or down to change the AC output voltage. Need to remove the nuts securing the plate to reposition it.
 

mwilk1

New member
24
8
3
Location
texas
O I C
walked out and looked arrow its at 208-416 tried to take pic but takes forever to email pic to myself
 
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