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Yup, yours is set to 416
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Low power output Light on
- Thread starter mwilk1
- Start date
This may get a tad long winded.... This morning while i was checking output voltage one time the low voltage light came on... I shut it off restarted and it worked just fine again minus high voltage on the L legs. I moved the voltage connection plate. now it says 120/208 but im back to low voltage light on and 56 ish volts on L1 and L3. Is it possible that this low voltage is intermittent and caused by a faulty ignition S1 switch or panel light (on/off) switch?
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What was the voltage at the 120 volt outlet?
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With the set running see what the DC voltage is across VR terminals 1 & 3.
With the set running see what the DC voltage is across the VR wires going to M7 & K15. It ought to be about 24 volts
With the set running see what the DC voltage is across the VR wires going to M7 & K15. It ought to be about 24 volts
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The voltages you posted look about right.
In post #14 you had 120 volts at the outlet with the replacement VR installed with the reconnection plate in the 416 position.
After moving the reconnection plate now you only have 88 volts at the outlet?
Got me scratching my head on this one!
In post #14 you had 120 volts at the outlet with the replacement VR installed with the reconnection plate in the 416 position.
After moving the reconnection plate now you only have 88 volts at the outlet?
Got me scratching my head on this one!
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I know it's a bit tedious but if it were me, I'd switch the plate back to 416 and see if the outlet voltage goes back to 120 volts.
was going to do that... Had tree guys here all day couldnt do that or clean out rat nest inside of gen. Also want to look at bottom left lug of the config board. Seems who ever tightend them used so serious torque. Might have damaged the wire on the back side while trying to get it loose.
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You wrote:
yes i had proper voltage in the 416 config. 120 at outlet ran fan while finishing up. Set hz to 60 with meter at 120vac with meter.
No mater what configuration, you will ALWAYS get 120 VAC out of the 120 volt outlets if the set is wired right.
was going to do that... Had tree guys here all day couldn't do that or clean out rat nest inside of gen. Also want to look at bottom left lug of the config board. Seems who ever tightend them used so serious torque. Might have damaged the wire on the back side while trying to get it loose.
The rats nest could be part of the problem. Also, its a very common problem, that when someone moves the TB1 and of changes parts, the wires get damaged or miss wired on the TB1.I would remove the TB1 and then hook it back up IAW the schematic. That way you KNOW its right.
yes i had proper voltage in the 416 config. 120 at outlet ran fan while finishing up. Set hz to 60 with meter at 120vac with meter.
No mater what configuration, you will ALWAYS get 120 VAC out of the 120 volt outlets if the set is wired right.
was going to do that... Had tree guys here all day couldn't do that or clean out rat nest inside of gen. Also want to look at bottom left lug of the config board. Seems who ever tightend them used so serious torque. Might have damaged the wire on the back side while trying to get it loose.
The rats nest could be part of the problem. Also, its a very common problem, that when someone moves the TB1 and of changes parts, the wires get damaged or miss wired on the TB1.I would remove the TB1 and then hook it back up IAW the schematic. That way you KNOW its right.
On bottom left pin or peg 1 in the 240 position i have 155v on pin 7 right above it i have 77v.
On bottom left pin in 120 position i have 77v and 77v on pin 7 right above it.
In both cases my voltage at outlet is only 77v. Low voltage light is on and wont reset.
When i first move the board pin 1 was over tightened lug turned in backing plate. Had to get a backup wrench to get it loose. When i checked it tonight the lug turned in board but connections to wires was tight and clean. I pulled it all loose tightened lug to board reattached wires now every thing there is in decent shape. So no that wasnt part of the problem..
edit 3 for tonight..... The check out sheet says it has 2 bad GFI's in it. Looking through the parts list in one of the pdf files someone posted here i only found 1. That being said heaving some back round in residential electricity the gfi should not affect the output of the generator just the outlet on front. Yea dont laugh... i can chase that electrical problem in your car down fairly quickly and be right 99% of the time. 4 years in the navy chasing trons taught me that. i just dont know anything about these. As usual thanks for all the help so far. Mike
On bottom left pin in 120 position i have 77v and 77v on pin 7 right above it.
In both cases my voltage at outlet is only 77v. Low voltage light is on and wont reset.
When i first move the board pin 1 was over tightened lug turned in backing plate. Had to get a backup wrench to get it loose. When i checked it tonight the lug turned in board but connections to wires was tight and clean. I pulled it all loose tightened lug to board reattached wires now every thing there is in decent shape. So no that wasnt part of the problem..
edit 3 for tonight..... The check out sheet says it has 2 bad GFI's in it. Looking through the parts list in one of the pdf files someone posted here i only found 1. That being said heaving some back round in residential electricity the gfi should not affect the output of the generator just the outlet on front. Yea dont laugh... i can chase that electrical problem in your car down fairly quickly and be right 99% of the time. 4 years in the navy chasing trons taught me that. i just dont know anything about these. As usual thanks for all the help so far. Mike
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The GFI is only for the 120 volt outlet.
kinda what i figured.
ok so i cleaned up the rats nest. the wires directly under it are unharmed. other wires have insulation chewed off but the wires are intact. I put liquid tape on them for now. wondering if i should fine the right wire and replace them but have to source the wire first.
Started it up checked voltages and of course today it decides to work. Moved wires around while running and everything stays proper voltages.
Started it up checked voltages and of course today it decides to work. Moved wires around while running and everything stays proper voltages.
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2Pbfeet
Well-known member
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The wire is TGGT (Teflon/glass/glass/teflon, aka tape/glass/glass/tape) high temperature wire, rated 250-300C (480-575F), typically white or tan like this;
High Temp SPEC 42040
cabletechsupport.southwire.com
You can find it also by looking for UL 5180 wire. The smaller gauges were available here locally, and on the big commerce sites. The heavy gauge wires (10+ga) was a bit harder for me to find.
Amazon.com : tggt high temperature wire
www.amazon.com
Note that these wires have different ampacities and temperature ratings compared to typical home wiring, so using non-TGGT wires run a significant risk of overheating (fire).
All the best,
2Pbfeet
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What you may also do, is see if someone has parted out a MEP-813A (400 hertz model), and would send you/ sell you the wire harness. Start a "Parts Wanted" thread. Most people think of the as junk after they loot out the engine and a few other parts. They forget that the wire harness is ALMOST the same.
Spot check / fail.... about 1600/4pm i did a spot check... Low volatge light on 77vac at outlet and Term 1 on TBI. Learned the big white wires go from the tbi not to it. All the black wires go TO IT. Volt meter on control Panel shows 120vac while running 200vac while in crank mode. I need to check what voltage is on the back side of TBI on the black wires. I expect 77vac. Im thinking maybe what ever "excites" the generator isnt working right. I hate to think the generator is bad but if that was the case why would i have 200vac while holding S1 i crank position.
Will check out the parts side here about the harness. Thanks.
Will check out the parts side here about the harness. Thanks.
seems im a newbe and being so cant post a classified add.