M-718 or M-715 What is it ?

[HatAttacks]

RE: should I change my plugs and wires and distributor

EastCoastKaiser, Thanks for the manual you have been a big help

HatAttacks

 

[HatAttacks]

RE: should I change my plugs and wires and distributor

I was still having issue trying to get 12v to the coil so I ran the + wire from the coil to the + terminal on the battery and still no luck I could not get 12v to coil. I added a second battery to give me 24v. Don’t know if this was a bad thing to do, but all my lights worked the horn that I never had working before But when I try to start the jeep I got some sparks from the ground wire and now all I get is a click noise when I try and start the jeep. I still have all the lights working and horn but it won’t crank over. I try hooking up just the 12v and I got spark from the + terminal. And it just clicks and did not turn over. Sound like the clicking is coming from the round Battery gauge on the dash panel.
So what did I mess up now?

HatAttacks

 

[HatAttacks]

Alive

I got the jeep going. I put in 6 new plugs new 12v coil and points and replaced a few wires that did not look to good. Started right up after 5 years and it idle real nice never had to step on the gas. I was shocked. I can not believe how well the jeep runs. I'm thinking the coil was bad. because I did try starting the jeep with the new plugs and points and I could not get it started. Just have to get the breaks working I added some break fluid and pump them and got a little break but I think I have to bleed them I was able to drive the jeep in the yard but had now clue on how to shift t-case levers Just have to fix a few lights and I'm on the road. Thanks every one for the help
HatAttacks

 

[Boatcarpenter]

RE: Alive

Great news HatAttacks. This is a great place for help. Enjoy.
BC

 

[EastCoastKaiser]

RE: Alive

Glad to see you got it running. If an M715 is set-up right you never need gas to start it. Just give it some choke when its cold and hit the switch. They flood real easy if you try pumping the gas before starting. If its been sitting 5 years then you probably want to replace all the brake fluid. Brake fluid loves to soak up moisture. As for the transfer case, to run in 2wd just make sure both levers are up against the dashboard. Unless they are bent or damaged, you must shift into 4wd before making a shift from high to low. Not that the xfer case won't do it but they interlock the shifters to prevent you from damaging the drivetrain. With 5.87:1 gears you don't need low gear much.

 

[HatAttacks]

RE: Alive

The break cylinder was empty. So I had to add brake fluid, I don’t think any brake fluid was in the lines because the brake pedal went to the floor. I’m thinking that once I bleed the breaks with fresh fluid I should be ok? I’m also going to drain the transfer case. Also should I be using any special fluids? Break, transfer antifreeze also what should I use for oil. Any suggestion on color, I was going to use a primer for now to clean up the jeep. Was thinking about Red and black? What is the name of the military green color that should be on it?

 

[Opie]

RE: Alive

Semi gloss olive drab is the name (and the simple answer) for an Army paint scheme. For the time period of your truck, the color would be known by the Federal Standard color number 24087. Check out the Paint and Bodywork section of the forum for which paint to obtain and where to get it. http://steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewforum&f=46

 

[67Beast]

Yep, 24087 OD Green is the proper color for M715's. It will give you a truck that looks like this.

If you decide to put markings on it let me know as I have been making them for 715's here http://www.i2k.com/~schwarzd/

 

[EastCoastKaiser]

24087 is the way to go.
Dave's decals are a great deal. Got a set for myself. Good quality and much less costly then the alternatives.

 

[patch]

Hat man, glad you got it working. Now you gotta ditch those running boards and squirt some OD on it. I am in Wells almost every day,what road do you live on? Shoot me a PM sometime, I'd like to stop in and see the truck one of these days....JK

 

[HatAttacks]

Update, post from M715 ZONE

The next day I go to start the jeep and it ran very ruff. When I step on the gas it sounds like it was jumping and I had to hold down the gas to keep it running. I put a new gas filter in and put 7 gallons of fresh gas and gas cleaner and no luck. I turn the idle up and it stayed running, when I step on the gas the engine would shake. When I let go of the gas it would back fire. I also noticed the oil gauge was at 30 then drop to 0 but when I step on the gas the pressure went back up to around 30 and I have a ticking sound. Then I checked the distributor points and it looked like the time may be off? anyone know what the issue is.

 

[HatAttacks]

checked the points and set the gap .20 I did not see that much of a different with the way the jeep runs. It doesn’t back fire as bad as it did. I had to turn the idle up on the carburetor so the jeep would stay running. Still having the same issue when I step on the gas the jeep will shake. Once I have the engine revved up it doesn’t shake as much. I do have some smoke that comes out of the tail pie looks as it could be blue. I was thinking that maybe it is a carburetor issue with the gas mixture. I was thinking of having the carburetor rebuilt. Anyone feel this should be the next step. Or having any suggestion one what may be the problem

 

[HatAttacks]

Well how should I start? Mechanic NOT was going to check the plugs today like suggested, but I decided to see what would happen if I let the jeep run for awhile. So I started up the jeep went into the house and about 20 minutes later the jeep shut off. I went out side and noticed the inside of the cab was full of white smoke. On no my new found love is on fire. So I open the door to see what was burning but could not see. The smoked cleared and I could not see any place that a fire could have started. So I pop the hood and I noticed. After I installed the new 12v coil I had ran a new positive wire from the coil to the key switch. Like a dumb ass, I left the wire lying on the exhaust manifold witch burn the plastic coating on the wire. So I went back into the jeep took of the dash and guess what I found. The wires attached to the gauges on the dash melted together. So if I’m correct the coil wire heated up and caused the wires to catch on fire. I don’t know at this time how much more damage that may have occurred. Now I have a new project ahead of me. I was so close to getting the jeep on the road and once again another issue. Oh ya anyone think the coil may have burned out?

 

[Boatcarpenter]

Sounds to me as though you had a massive short circuit when the insulation melted off the 12volt hot wire lying on the manifold.

 

[EastCoastKaiser]

Sorry to hear the bad news. Prior to the short circuit it sounds like your carb was way too rich. If you scroll down a couple posts you'll see one titled "hard starting M715" . I had the same problem. Wasn't getting any gas at first so I needed starter fluid to fire it up and once it was running it was too rich and would pop and back fire thru the carb. Then again, maybe the wire starting shorting right away, but I think it wouldn't get hot enough fast enough, but if it did then you could have had your coil dropping out wich would make it appear to be running rich since your getting gas but not sufficient spark. I'd square away the wiring then go back to the carb. I'd be a bit concerned about the 0psi and knock. Even when just barely running you should be able to pull enough rpm to get plenty of pressure. Better check the external oil line on the back of the motor by the firewall. When you do get it fired back up get a mechanical gauge on it right away. Don't want to run it with no pressure for any length of time. Those overhead valves will death rattle.

 

[ida34]

You mentioned blue smoke out the tailpipe.

Blue smoke is oil burning
White smoke is coolant burning (leading head gasket or such into the combustion chamber)
Black smoke is a rich condition.

 

[HatAttacks]

I checked out my wire issue and I only burned 3 wires. I replaced them and the jeep started right up. I let it run for a few seconds and I was still getting the issue with the back fire and I also noticed that when I steped on the gas the frist few seconds I hear a sucking sound (air) and can feel it on the gas pedeal then it stops and I get gas. So im going to do what was suggested and checked out the carb.

On the oil pressure issue is it normal for the oil gauge to drop to 0 and go up when the gas is steped on. Or should be at a set pressure?

I will do another check on the color of the smoke

its all about the weather now. Rain Rain go away

HatAttacks

 

[EastCoastKaiser]

You should never get 0psi. It may take a second or two to slowly come up to pressure. It will also vary with rpm. It will vary even more as the temp goes up and the oil thins out. My motor is anything but fresh and it gets no less than 25psi at idle, normally 30-35psi. When cold at higher rpm it gets upwards of 40psi.

 

[IAN_M715]

RE: should I change my plugs and wires and distributor

i haven't been on in a long time. good to see you are making progress with yours. the fire dept who had mine did serious electrical flip on my truck. i'll be working on that over the winter.

 

[gwalker]

Actually the larger style mechanical flasher t/s were used through the entire production. Later in the service of the vehicle it was an option to update the t/s with the newer transistorized flasher design, which was developed as a standard for all military vehicle applications.There were only 2 designs for air cleaners; the early type a slightly modified civilian one which proved impractical, the 2nd design was introduced along with the addition of a governor after serial#28680-715 an 13577-725.As well as needing a better air cleaner it was determined after many early engine failures(You will find many more depot rebuild tags on non governor engines) the the cost cutting measure of not using a governor wasnt a good choice and one was added to production at the same serial numbers which was in later1968. As well the air cleaner an gov. were packaged in a kit for installation in the feild as an update for the early trucks, however for some reason few were ever done. Those kits are still aviable through memphis equipt.