• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

M-series flasher relay - civvy conversion how-to

firewarrior

New member
10
2
3
Location
Midland,Tx
I know this post is 2 yrs old, but I want to say thanks for doing this...I just upgraded mine using your instructions and everything looks and works perfectly!!
 

clinto

Moderator, wonderful human being & practicing Deuc
Staff member
Administrator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
12,596
1,132
113
Location
Athens, Ga.
I know this post is 2 yrs old, but I want to say thanks for doing this...I just upgraded mine using your instructions and everything looks and works perfectly!!
Thanks. I am still running on the original EG22 relay I installed at the time of doing this. I have inspected it a couple times and one time, there was some condensation in the plastic housing. I removed the cap that I had installed and put a downward facing pipe on it so it could breath. Haven't checked it since I did that. Having it open means if I ford water up to the box, the box will fill up with water, so this is a temporary solution I don't care for. Still deciding what to do.
 

fcreamer88

New member
5
0
0
Location
Abilene Texas
OK, I set out to do this repair and low and behold, my flasher is different. My cannon connector is molded into the box. I was able to remove most of the sealant puddy around the connector but all i was left with was 3 pins that came out the back of the connector. Any idea of a part # for just the cannon connector? I have my napa guy searching but haven't heard anything just yet.
 

jasonjc

Well-known member
5,326
289
83
Location
Gravette Ar.
OK, I set out to do this repair and low and behold, my flasher is different. My cannon connector is molded into the box. I was able to remove most of the sealant puddy around the connector but all i was left with was 3 pins that came out the back of the connector. Any idea of a part # for just the cannon connector? I have my napa guy searching but haven't heard anything just yet.
I have the same plug I just soldered the wire to the pins.


Also used the EG23 flasher with 3 pins. I thought one was a ground but its not. X is power in and L is load out to the light. Don't know what the "P" is for. I also put a fuse in the box.

Thanks for the idea Clinto!
 

just me

Member
322
10
18
Location
phoenix,az
The "P", I think, is for a separate Pilot indicator lamp. Me being lazy, and having not seen thus post, I just used a clip to mount the flasher to the glovebox side where the original failure box was. I removed the cannon connector and soldered connectors to the wires. Reversible, but requires soldering. I don't Ford, so wet isn't an issue.
 
Last edited:

fcreamer88

New member
5
0
0
Location
Abilene Texas
This problem has plagued me! I did the conversion, popped the headlight and no flash, replaced the flasher and now all I have is constant power to the lamp. Luckily I found a neighboring fire department who is decommissioning a deuce and was willing to part out the flasher module. Now to rewire in the barrel connector and cross my fingers. Still at a loss on this, Clinto....any ideas?
 

cattlerepairman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,256
3,354
113
Location
NORTH (Canada)
I have received the parts, built and installed the unit and can report that the box I mention above mounts perfectly to the original bolt holes (using the original bolts, after drilling out the mounting tab holes a little).

This is one of the best safety and peace of mind modifications to the truck that one can do! I love the stock look of the setup.
 

clinto

Moderator, wonderful human being & practicing Deuc
Staff member
Administrator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
12,596
1,132
113
Location
Athens, Ga.
It makes me really happy to be able to give something back to the community. I'm glad this is something that has helped some of you out.
 

duttoer1959

New member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
16
3
0
Location
Lafayette, Indiana
Just want to say thanks for this information . Have had my truck (Jeffery) since 2003 . I don't know how many of those junk flashers I've been through . I used the Grote 44860 with the aluminium box , turn signal plug from ebay and connector from the old unit . It works perfect . Also inside the box is an extra flasher just in case . Thank you guy's . Great info and money saver .
 

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,290
1,776
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
Argh. Went to put my new relay on and nothing! And my drivers side headlamp popped. Any ideas? Clinto, Can you message me?
Did problem get solved?
What was issue if so?

All issues and fixes should be posted here so it will help others.

Noticed Clinto didn’t post anything after your question.
 

clinto

Moderator, wonderful human being & practicing Deuc
Staff member
Administrator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
12,596
1,132
113
Location
Athens, Ga.
Did problem get solved?
What was issue if so?

All issues and fixes should be posted here so it will help others.

Noticed Clinto didn’t post anything after your question.
He had PM'd me and we spoke offline.

He told what the conclusion was but I can't remember now. I think he ended up using a stock flasher relay.

EDIT: went back and looked at my PM's. He said he couldn't get it to work and ended up buying a current replacement m-series relay.

Not sure what was up with his truck, I've done this swap on dozens of friends trucks without issue. Mine has been in the truck now since January 2015 without issue.
 

nchittendon

Active member
544
28
28
Location
La Crosse, Wisconsin
I recently had my original taillight short out, and melt part of the housing. The gasket between the 2 halves was in bad shape, and let water in. It filled with water and corroded enough to short. In my hobbiest mind, I decide to upgrade instead of just replace. So I look into the military LED lights. Too rich for my blood.
I decide to do a civilian LED conversion, to my OWN tastes. Had some custom brackets made, had everything powder coated, and snagged the lights themselves for $7 a pop. I like that better than the $200 a pair I've seen for the military LED ones.

This was my photoshop vision:
taillight plan.jpg

And this is the finished product:
20180108_154715.jpg

But now, they blink funny. So, here I am. Looking to build a civilian upgraded flasher box. Was it ever determined if the EG22 plays well with LED's? I'm so close and getting anxious to drive my truck again with her new "bling."
 

clinto

Moderator, wonderful human being & practicing Deuc
Staff member
Administrator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
12,596
1,132
113
Location
Athens, Ga.
So, I have to post an update.

After 3 years on the truck, one of the plastic mounting tabs on the box broke. Now, this may be my fault, as I tend to pull the box off and use it to test customer vehicles before I build another relay. So maybe that had something to do with it............

But, after thinking about it, I think the heat and vibration of the engine compartment are probably hard on that box. So I ordered one of the metal boxes The Stig used to build his and I've now upgraded my flasher to Version 2.0.

20180301_172335.jpg20180301_172341.jpg20180301_172404.jpg20180301_173422.jpg20180301_173424.jpg20180301_173432.jpg20180301_173437.jpg20180301_173441.jpg
 
Last edited:
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks