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DIVE DIVE

DIVE DIVE

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Been a rough weekend so far. Bought a motor (6.2) from a guy here locally that had it in a HMMWV. He took it out because it spun a rod bearing apparently. He told me it had a new crank in it and new pistons with new main and rod bearings. Picked it up on Friday for 350 bucks. I figured I’d use the block and heads, then piece the rest together with my leftover flooded engine parts that came in my truck. Well I get the engine home and this morning start disassembling it just to check everything out, even though the guy told me it “just needs to be final torqued.” Needless to say the crank is damaged in multiple places and the crank and rod bearings are not good either. They are new looking bearings, but he had zero regard for cleanliness during his assembly. I’ve tried to contact him to get my money back but he’s out of town this weekend apparently. Good thing I know where he lives.

Then, was pressure testing my radiator after spending a lot of time cleaning and painting it. See results below. Dumpster fire weekend.

I guess it can only get better. Working on some window moulding instead now, I’m about done with metal things for the weekend!
 

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DIVE DIVE

DIVE DIVE

Well-known member
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Location
Chesapeake, VA
Yeah so it looks like a new radiator is about 600 bucks so that’s cool. Not sure how that works since I just got one for my Cummins for less than half that, and it’s basically the same thing. I have approximately zero interest in resurrecting/repairing 40 year old radiator technology, so a new one it will be.

Frankly I’m surprised no one has any comments like “I always pressure test mine before I clean and paint them” or something useful like that lol.

Still frustrated today, but I got a text from the guy I got the motor from, and we’re going to meet next week so I can drop his boat anchor off and he can give me my money back. So that’s good 👍
 
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ezgn

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DIVE DIVE said:
Yeah so it looks like a new radiator is about 600 bucks so that’s cool. Not sure how that works since I just got one for my Cummins for less than half that, and it’s basically the same thing. I have approximately zero interest in resurrecting/repairing 40 year old radiator technology, so a new one it will be.

Frankly I’m surprised no one has any comments like “I always pressure test mine before I clean and paint them” or something useful like that lol.

Still frustrated today, but I got a text from the guy I got the motor from, and we’re going to meet next week so I can drop his boat anchor off and he can give me my money back. So that’s good 👍
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Maybe if the heads are good he will give you those for your trouble.
 
Sharecropper

Sharecropper

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DIVE DIVE said:
Good news is that I got my money back. Back to square one with the motor situation, though.
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Hi. I've been silently following your thread. In my humble opinion you are making very good decisions.

Regarding an engine - I'm not sure of your financial situation, but have you considered simply purchasing a 6.5 crate motor and adding all the CUCV accessories to it? Not a turbo, mind you, but a simple naturally-aspirated 6.5. Just a thought. I'm still in the process of assembling and installing my supercharged P400 in my M1028, and I refuse to reveal how much of my daughter's inheritance I have invested in it. Everybody thinks I'm crazy, and I suppose I might be, but at least I am enjoying the fruits of my 55+ years of labor. In an engine, you get what you pay for. A 6.5 crate motor will bolt right into your truck and all CUCV accessories will bolt right on. And if you really want to sail down the road, I have a brand new Bowtie 700R4 for sale. which will also bolt right on with no modification to crossmember or driveshafts.

Another thought, you might want to watch the weekly auctions at Gov Planet. Almost every week there is at least one brand new military 6.5 auctioned in the original shipping crate. There are many take-outs also auctioned, but I wouldn't recommend trusting one of those. You can tell the new ones, you can almost smell the newness through the computer screen.

Good luck on your project. Keep posting your progress.
 
DIVE DIVE

DIVE DIVE

Well-known member
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778
93
Location
Chesapeake, VA
Sharecropper said:
Hi. I've been silently following your thread. In my humble opinion you are making very good decisions.

Regarding an engine - I'm not sure of your financial situation, but have you considered simply purchasing a 6.5 crate motor and adding all the CUCV accessories to it? Not a turbo, mind you, but a simple naturally-aspirated 6.5. Just a thought. I'm still in the process of assembling and installing my supercharged P400 in my M1028, and I refuse to reveal how much of my daughter's inheritance I have invested in it. Everybody thinks I'm crazy, and I suppose I might be, but at least I am enjoying the fruits of my 55+ years of labor. In an engine, you get what you pay for. A 6.5 crate motor will bolt right into your truck and all CUCV accessories will bolt right on. And if you really want to sail down the road, I have a brand new Bowtie 700R4 for sale. which will also bolt right on with no modification to crossmember or driveshafts.

Another thought, you might want to watch the weekly auctions at Gov Planet. Almost every week there is at least one brand new military 6.5 auctioned in the original shipping crate. There are many take-outs also auctioned, but I wouldn't recommend trusting one of those. You can tell the new ones, you can almost smell the newness through the computer screen.

Good luck on your project. Keep posting your progress.
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Thanks @Sharecropper. I’ve been eyeing those 6.5s as well. Truth is I’m always keeping an eye out for a good motor. I’m on this path of trying to keep everything stock, but that path may be changing. I stare at this 6.0 LQ4, Atlas II, and rebuilt manual valve body 4L80 every day and have to fight the urge to just say “screw it” and throw all that stuff in!
 

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DIVE DIVE

DIVE DIVE

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Haven’t posted in a while, I’ve been saving up to buy 5 more gallons of diesel!
I put 5 more gallons in the fuel tank to test the gauge and the results are below. Pretty much on track with every other square body I’ve owned (comes off of full at around 15 gallons).
Then I rolled the ol girl out into the sun to stretch her legs a bit.
Purchasing 4” ORD shackle flip and front springs soon. Then a radiator and finding a motor. Also need a front driveshaft still, since I destroyed the old one…should pick up on progress here in the next few months.
 

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DIVE DIVE

DIVE DIVE

Well-known member
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Chesapeake, VA
Worked on the front winch a little today. Got things sorta mocked up, to have a look at what it might look like. If I mount the fairlead on the bumper here, the cable will pay out from the bottom instead of the top where I need it. I could just turn the winch around I guess but then the motor junction box and relay/overload will all be backwards. I’m going to have to try and find a manual online to see if I can clock the box and whatnot. The drum has a sticker on it they says it supposed to wind in a certain direction so…
 

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87cr250r

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A little late joining here but if you still have the original radiator I highly suggest getting it re-cored. The original is far superior to any of the aftermarket units and a good radiator shop can maintain that quality.
 
DIVE DIVE

DIVE DIVE

Well-known member
217
778
93
Location
Chesapeake, VA
87cr250r said:
A little late joining here but if you still have the original radiator I highly suggest getting it re-cored. The original is far superior to any of the aftermarket units and a good radiator shop can maintain that quality.
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I took the radiator in to a place called Culpepper Radiator Service here in Portsmouth, VA. They told me a re-core would be around 1300 dollars. The guy that does it has been there for 40 years and I watched him work while I was there for about 30 minutes, it was pretty impressive to watch. He was working on a radiator out of an old Torino I believe he said, and to see him use the torch and compressed air combination to control the heat soak was very interesting. Anyways they were able to source a new one with the same specs made by a company called Thermal Solutions Manufacturing, Inc. and total price was $645. Unfortunate as it may be, that is actually a reasonable price, considering the ones from the chain stores are 6-8 hundred and aluminum/composite construction. The one from TSM is a direct fit but the problem is they only do commercial sales so they have to be purchased through a business. Looks like I’ll be ordering a replacement through Culpepper in the near future.4424DA35-2DAC-4967-9142-553CEB85DAA5.jpeg
 
DIVE DIVE

DIVE DIVE

Well-known member
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Location
Chesapeake, VA
Parts list2BCF8595-6FF3-4152-B439-5794D9B9DD58.jpeg

Skyjacker C140S springs
Skyjacker SE11C bushings
Energy Suspension 3.4116G body mount set

Front springs installed.

Still haven’t installed the bushings but I’ll put them in when I get them. Lesson learned: do not buy Skyjacker parts from Amazon. Skyjacker does not sell through Amazon. The bushing kit I got was repackaged and resold. It had 2 sets of metal bushings for 7/16” bolts when it should have a set of 7/16” and a set of 9/16” metal bushings. I called SJ and they said they were not original and it was an in authorized vendor. So I sent them back and ordered directly from SJ.

Pictures are with front springs installed and body mount bushings installed. Still waiting on all the other stuff from ORD and the replacement bushings from SJ (actual).3E937E40-E644-419D-BAFA-07F20F06124B.jpegFF60A596-C84B-47A1-9720-8E95F8C7A538.jpeg
 
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87cr250r

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Let us know how that radiator is. I bought an aftermarket brass one a while back. It was fully half the weight of the OEM. It was junk. The aluminum/plastic aftermarket radiators are better.
 
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