M1008 Glow plug issues.

[Alucard-HD]

Ok, first off i'm new to this forum. I looked around a bit and found this be a common issue for these trucks. When i first bought the truck, it had bad plugs and no resistor and i am new to the 6.2s so i had no clue. One day i was driving it on the highway and smoke was pouring out of the dash, and i had no idea what it was. I noiced then i had a bad draw on the batteries. So i looked for new glow plugs, like a moron i put 12v plugs in it well it started right up the first time and that was it, fried. So i bought 24v plugs and they worked great for the first few days and then the truck wouldnt start again. i plug the plugs out and they didnt look bad. later i found i have two cards in this truck. one was right under the wheel and it was a bigger card, and the other was over to the right and it was half the size of the first card, and it was fried to a crisp. so that being said, how hard is it to but a push button in instead of the card? Any help would be great.

 

[K9Vic]

Well something is not right with your CUCV if you do not have a resistor block as the glow plus are 12volt and not 24volt. The only part on these trucks that is 24v is the starter, everything else including the glow plus is 12v. With a 24v CUCV (Not a converted 12v CUCV) you can bypass the resistor block by connecting the GP relay to the front battery to get 12 volts if the resistor block go bad. The GP control card under the dash is known to go bad on these trucks and replacements can be had on eBay. There are plenty of post here on how to use the push button system, but you need to find out why you do not have a resistor block to convert 24v to 12v as it should have 12v glow plus.

 

[Alucard-HD]

Well something is not right with your CUCV if you do not have a resistor block as the glow plus are 12volt and not 24volt. The only part on these trucks that is 24v is the starter, everything else including the glow plus is 12v. With a 24v CUCV (Not a converted 12v CUCV) you can bypass the resistor block by connecting the GP relay to the front battery to get 12 volts if the resistor block go bad. The GP control card under the dash is known to go bad on these trucks and replacements can be had on eBay. There are plenty of post here on how to use the push button system, but you need to find out why you do not have a resistor block to convert 24v to 12v as it should have 12v glow plus.

I well if this resistor block your talking about is the part that bolts to the fire wall then i have it, its just not hooked up. as far as the glow plugs go it is a 24v system, i metered it. the best way to describe these parts to me is by picture lol. here is the site i ordered the plugs from http://www.ssdieselsupply.com/produc..._Vehicles.html I'll have to look for button install details

 

[Alucard-HD]

If i want to do a push button, do i need that big resistor thing that sits on the fire wall? also since i have 24 plugs do i need any special button or just run what i can find?

 

[Warthog]

I well if this resistor block your talking about is the part that bolts to the fire wall then i have it, its just not hooked up. as far as the glow plugs go it is a 24v system, i metered it. the best way to describe these parts to me is by picture lol. here is the site i ordered the plugs from http://www.ssdieselsupply.com/produc..._Vehicles.html I'll have to look for button install details

In a Stock system the plugs are suppost to be 12v plugs. The Wellman 070 are a good choice. I just looked at the link and I beleive that these are the Wellman 070's that are made for the Vendor.

Read the Wiki sticky post at the top of the CUCV Forum.

If the "resistor block" is by-passed and the plugs are getting the full 24v, they WILL fry.

The system is designed to take the 24v, pass it thru the resistor, and use the resistance in the 12v plugs to reduce the voltage to 12v. It will first spike to 24v and then settle down to 12v.

If the first plug burns out then the rest gets ~13v. If another burns out then the rest get ~15v, and so on until the final plug is getting the full 24v and it will die a very PAINFULL death.

Also download the tech manuals (links on the Wiki page). They have a great section on troubleshooting the glowplug system and wiring diagrams in the appendix.

With your truck not being stock, it is hard to tell you how to process with changing to a manual system.

The controller board that burned up could be may things, ie the Tach Buffer Module or Resistor Board for the Diagnostic Circuits or the Low Coolant module. Can you post a picture of the module?

Warthog

 

[Alucard-HD]

here it is, i think i just want a push button lol