M1008 wiring troubles

[brandonwillyumz]

Hey all. I have a m923 and an m1008. This post is in reference to the latter.

I purchased a 1985 m1008 a few weeks ago. It seems as though one of the previous owners attempted to convert it to 12v. Not sure. Basically a ton of wiring is hacked up in the engine bay. None of the exterior lights work either.

The alternator on the driver side (GEN2, I think?) Is completely disconnected from everything, electrically.

Basically I'm wondering what I can do to check this wiring out. Trying to figure out a good starting point for seeing what has been done. How can I check to see if the starter is 12 or 24v? It does start and drive a little. Stalls out if I put much of a load on it, but I think that is the aftermarket fuel pump someone installed.

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[brandonwillyumz]

Hey all. I have a m923 and an m1008. This post is in reference to the latter.

I purchased a 1985 m1008 a few weeks ago. It seems as though one of the previous owners attempted to convert it to 12v. Not sure. Basically a ton of wiring is hacked up in the engine bay. None of the exterior lights work either.

The alternator on the driver side (GEN2, I think?) Is completely disconnected from everything, electrically.

Basically I'm wondering what I can do to check this wiring out. Trying to figure out a good starting point for seeing what has been done. How can I check to see if the starter is 12 or 24v? It does start and drive a little. Stalls out if I put much of a load on it, but I think that is the aftermarket fuel pump someone installed.

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Here's the 5 ton, and then some of the wiring in the CUCV engine bay.

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[cucvrus]

I would start over. That means remove the entire wiring harness and fuel lines and go from there. I have seen the horror. And it was worse on a few. Like I said so many modifications that Bill Nye the science guy couldn't even have figured it out. So my advise is. remove all the wiring and get another wiring harness and rewire it back to stock. And you are less then 100 miles from me. I can do that work for a fee if you would like. I think I have that on my side. No BS here. Have a great day. I have a few sitting here with everything you need. Send lawyers , guns, and money.

 

[brandonwillyumz]

I would start over. That means remove the entire wiring harness and fuel lines and go from there. I have seen the horror. And it was worse on a few. Like I said so many modifications that Bill Nye the science guy couldn't even have figured it out. So my advise is. remove all the wiring and get another wiring harness and rewire it back to stock. And you are less then 100 miles from me. I can do that work for a fee if you would like. I think I have that on my side. No BS here. Have a great day. I have a few sitting here with everything you need. Send lawyers , guns, and money.View attachment 706079View attachment 706080

Not opposed to that idea. It crossed my mind a few times for sure. How much would you charge for that?

PS appreciate the reply

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[cucvrus]

I think you need to send me a few more pictures and we could go from there. Are you in a huge rush? That is what always get me. I am always back logged with projects. I do have the parts if you are proficient in replacing the wiring harness yourself. And with this internet. I am only an email away. Sounds fairly easy just time consuming. Unhacking always takes more time and effort then doing the correct repairs in the first place. Usually a lot less expensive also. Do you have a 24 Volt starter? And are the alternator brackets in place. All this is what will be the deciding factor in cost. Imagine what it would have cost to correct the original issue? A lot less and easier.

 

[brandonwillyumz]

I think you need to send me a few more pictures and we could go from there. Are you in a huge rush? That is what always get me. I am always back logged with projects. I do have the parts if you are proficient in replacing the wiring harness yourself. And with this internet. I am only an email away. Sounds fairly easy just time consuming. Unhacking always takes more time and effort then doing the correct repairs in the first place. Usually a lot less expensive also. Do you have a 24 Volt starter? And are the alternator brackets in place. All this is what will be the deciding factor in cost. Imagine what it would have cost to correct the original issue? A lot less and easier.

I'm not in a huge rush but I do want to get it up and running fairly soon. I need other parts also so I may come and pay you a visit. I need a new seat cushion and driver side window. Also I think a utility body would be cool to have, don't know if you have one or not.

I am not proficient with vehicle electrical stuff, but I could definitely do the work myself if I had something to go off of. I'm an electrician by trade, so I get the basic concepts at least.

How do I test the starter voltage? Both alternators are still in place. Just that the driver side one has nothing hooked up to it.

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[cucvrus]

The starter solenoid will be marked if it is 12 or 24 volt. Most are. And the engine harness is easy. It plugs in and fits or bolts in place. Sure you are welcome. Bring a camera and take as many pictures as you would like. i am sure you can get it back together. Just keep in mind. mine are 100% stock wired correctly. i have and want no mods. Worked so good for the 20 + years I owned them. I see no pointing messing things up now. But sure. Harford County is near Conowingo Maryland. If you head up to Lancaster Pennsylvania and stay on PA 72 North I am in Jonestown on PA 72 North. Before you hit the crossroad of US 22. Utility body??? I have 4 M1010 bodies in my yard. I have the glass and just about any other parts you may need. PM me if you know when you might be heading up this way. I am around on weekends and will be on vacation the second week and last week of November. I may be able to do some hands on work if the time is right. Take care.