M1009 Battery Issues

[Moejon0206]

I just recently replaced both batteries in my M1009 with Interstate group 31's. When I reconnected the terminal cables, I connected positive first and then negative. When I was connecting the last negative, the lead started sparking and got red hot. Because it was a threaded post, the ring terminal was stuck and it was too hot for me to remove right away. The terminal posts are fine but I had some of the wires melt. It appears that I have lost both main charging wires. I have 2 questions:
1. Why was I experiencing, what appeared to be, flow resistance when connecting the new batteries when all connections were tight?
2. Where can I find these replacement cables (picture attached) since all of the parts stores look at me with a blank stare when I ask?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Moejon0206]

I just recently replaced both batteries in my M1009 with Interstate group 31's. When I reconnected the terminal cables, I connected positive first and then negative. When I was connecting the last negative, the lead started sparking and got red hot. Because it was a threaded post, the ring terminal was stuck and it was too hot for me to remove right away. The terminal posts are fine but I had some of the wires melt. It appears that I have lost both main charging wires. I have 2 questions:
1. Why was I experiencing, what appeared to be, flow resistance when connecting the new batteries when all connections were tight?
2. Where can I find these replacement cables (picture attached) since all of the parts stores look at me with a blank stare when I ask?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[nyoffroad]

1. Why was I experiencing, what appeared to be, flow resistance when connecting the new batteries when all connections were tight?


Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Not being a wise ass but it's obvious that something was hooked up wrong, Are you sure about the connections? A look in the TM's should give the correct connections. Just a guess but did you hook Pos.to Pos.? as in a 12 volt system ?

 

[Moejon0206]

Not being a wise ass but it's obvious that something was hooked up wrong, Are you sure about the connections? A look in the TM's should give the correct connections. Just a guess but did you hook Pos.to Pos.? as in a 12 volt system ?

Thanks for the reply! I'm new to the 24v system so I tried to reconnect exactly how it was connected with the old batteries when it was working properly. So should positive on battery 1 be connected to negative on battery 2 etc?

 

[jcollings]

Anytime I'm connecting a battery that I'm not sure of.
make sure you just briefly tap it there, should be no spark of any kind. if there's a spark you know there's a problem. And if you're still not sure make sure you smell and look for smoke because there could be something else wrong this basis is on a vehicle that you really have no idea of the history. so make sure you tap it lightly and get ready to pull it back if you're not sure of the hook up. Just a suggestion


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[Moejon0206]

Anytime I'm connecting a battery that I'm not sure of.
make sure you just briefly tap it there, should be no spark of any kind. if there's a spark you know there's a problem. And if you're still not sure make sure you smell and look for smoke because there could be something else wrong this basis is on a vehicle that you really have no idea of the history. so make sure you tap it lightly and get ready to pull it back if you're not sure of the hook up. Just a suggestion


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Thanks! Great suggestion...learned it the hard way this time

 

[jcollings]

You can also get a crimp like something similar and make your own cables to the length you want pretty easy and simple as long as you get the right cable size ends for what you're connecting to

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[Moejon0206]

You can also get a crimp like something similar and make your own cables to the length you want pretty easy and simple as long as you get the right cable size ends for what you're connecting to

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Thanks! Terminal cables appear to be fine. It is the main charging wires from the alternators that melted. They appear to be 10 or 12 gauge with what looks like a fusible link on the end where they connect to the resistor bank on the firewall (next to the glow plug relay).

 

[jcollings]

Watch out for all that heat that built up, how it reacted to the fuse panel inside, the through wires going through the terminal block ETC

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[Moejon0206]

Watch out for all that heat that built up, how it reacted to the fuse panel inside, the through wires going through the terminal block ETC

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Thanks! I checked all of that and no visible issues so far. Ill check voltage once I get everything reconnected

 

[Moejon0206]

My biggest issue now is getting the main charging wires replaced. Does anyone know where I can look to purchase them?

 

[jcollings]

Here is one of many suppliers of automotive wires etc

Automotive Wire, Electrical Wire and More | Waytek Wire

Looking for automotive wire for your next project? How about stranded wire, marine wire, or UL wire? Waytek has it all - we have you covered for any wire harness assembly.

www.waytekwire.com

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[Moejon0206]

Here is one of many suppliers of automotive wires etc

Automotive Wire, Electrical Wire and More | Waytek Wire

Looking for automotive wire for your next project? How about stranded wire, marine wire, or UL wire? Waytek has it all - we have you covered for any wire harness assembly.

www.waytekwire.com

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Thanks...I'll check there!

 

[Moejon0206]

Thanks...I'll check there!

Looks like they are both just 8 ga wire with 12 ga fusible link wire on the end connected to the terminal ring. Should not be too hard to make myself. Thanks for all the help.

 

[Mullaney]

Looks like they are both just 8 ga wire with 12 ga fusible link wire on the end connected to the terminal ring. Should not be too hard to make myself. Thanks for all the help.

.
Whatever you do, don't "cheap out" and decide that you don't need the fuse. I am a little concerned that the fuse didn't blow and stop the current. People have been known to hack a fuse with tinfoil or worse. Wish I could wave a magic wand and tell you what happened...

Your 24v system should be a (Bat1) Positive to the starter off the first battery, then a jumper that connects the negative from Bat1 to the positive on Bat2, then one last connection off Bat2 to frame ground. All those battery connections should be cable about the size of your finger.

Over the years, I have made a habit of keeping a good sharp (the teeth) set of Channel Locks in one pocket and a GOOD set of sharp 12 inch Klein sidecutters in the other. They sell a high leverage set. Yeah, you will spend about a hundred bucks for those two tools but they will last as long as you. AND, when something goes wrong -- you aren't standing there wishing you could "turn off the juice".

Doesn't seem like it now, but you really are lucky...
There are people who have reached down and grabbed a red hot wire and "smoked" their hands.

 

[Moejon0206]

.
Whatever you do, don't "cheap out" and decide that you don't need the fuse. I am a little concerned that the fuse didn't blow and stop the current. People have been known to hack a fuse with tinfoil or worse. Wish I could wave a magic wand and tell you what happened...

Your 24v system should be a (Bat1) Positive to the starter off the first battery, then a jumper that connects the negative from Bat1 to the positive on Bat2, then one last connection off Bat2 to frame ground. All those battery connections should be cable about the size of your finger.

Over the years, I have made a habit of keeping a good sharp (the teeth) set of Channel Locks in one pocket and a GOOD set of sharp 12 inch Klein sidecutters in the other. They sell a high leverage set. Yeah, you will spend about a hundred bucks for those two tools but they will last as long as you. AND, when something goes wrong -- you aren't standing there wishing you could "turn off the juice".

Doesn't seem like it now, but you really are lucky...
There are people who have reached down and grabbed a red hot wire and "smoked" their hands.

It looks like I was able to disconnect the lead before it did too much damage. The fusible links on both main charging wires did their job though. Thanks for all of the help! I'm the guy who has no real issues working through mechanical issues but hates dealing with the electrical issues so this forum is a God-send!

 

[Moejon0206]

.
Whatever you do, don't "cheap out" and decide that you don't need the fuse. I am a little concerned that the fuse didn't blow and stop the current. People have been known to hack a fuse with tinfoil or worse. Wish I could wave a magic wand and tell you what happened...

Your 24v system should be a (Bat1) Positive to the starter off the first battery, then a jumper that connects the negative from Bat1 to the positive on Bat2, then one last connection off Bat2 to frame ground. All those battery connections should be cable about the size of your finger.

Over the years, I have made a habit of keeping a good sharp (the teeth) set of Channel Locks in one pocket and a GOOD set of sharp 12 inch Klein sidecutters in the other. They sell a high leverage set. Yeah, you will spend about a hundred bucks for those two tools but they will last as long as you. AND, when something goes wrong -- you aren't standing there wishing you could "turn off the juice".

Doesn't seem like it now, but you really are lucky...
There are people who have reached down and grabbed a red hot wire and "smoked" their hands.

I can see that!!! It was HOT

 

[Mullaney]

It looks like I was able to disconnect the lead before it did too much damage. The fusible links on both main charging wires did their job though. Thanks for all of the help! I'm the guy who has no real issues working through mechanical issues but hates dealing with the electrical issues so this forum is a God-send!

.
Happy to hear that the fuses were there and helped stop the pain!

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Thanks! Terminal cables appear to be fine. It is the main charging wires from the alternators that melted. They appear to be 10 or 12 gauge with what looks like a fusible link on the end where they connect to the resistor bank on the firewall (next to the glow plug relay).

Well, that's a bit scary.

No, they don't connect to the resistor bank on the firewall. The charging circuit has no connection to the GP resistor. Either you are mis-eyeballing it or somethin' ain't right!

Maybe you should post some pics of your wiring and we can give it the hairy eyeball to make sure it's all good.


But even without that, it's clear that something is wired wrong. There should be no drama when reconnecting the batteries. It's possible that you fried an alternator diode or two, as well as cooking the fusible links.

There's a sticky at the top of the forum that will show you how to test your alternators while on the vehicle. Very helpful.

Also check out the "Helpful Threads" sticky there. Tons of good info on the charging circult and on the fusible links. There may be more fried than you know.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Whatever you do, don't "cheap out" and decide that you don't need the fuse. I am a little concerned that the fuse didn't blow and stop the current. People have been known to hack a fuse with tinfoil or worse.

No, sir. The stock CUCV does not have fuses under the hood. It has fusible links. NOT the same thing at all. The terms are not interchangeable.