M1009 Brake Shoes and Differential Seals

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Mainsail

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What the heck happened here?

Six hands and a leg to hold everything, get it all back together before I noticed that the shoes I bought eight months ago are much narrower than the ones I took off.

I bought them on Rock Auto and these were the ones they selected.

What do I need exactly?

New one installed, old one rested next to it for comparison.

BrakeShoe.jpg
 
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doghead

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They show 2” wide up to 2.8” wide shoes. Any of them will work.

It’s up to you what you want.
 

doghead

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Of course, the oem shoes are listed in the parts TM.
 

Mainsail

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Thanks doghead. The narrow ones came from rock auto, not sure how I ended up with those unless I was too lazy to go outside, take the wheel and drum off, and measure them. :sleep:

I went to the local parts store with an old one and made sure they matched. The girl at the counter brought some little ones from the back at first- had to tell her it was for a Blazer, not an S-10 Blazer. She went back and brought out the right set.

Installed and test driven. Brakes were a little spongy at first but seemed to improve. Parking brake still needs adjustment- not sure how the auto adjusting works on this truck.
 

cucvrus

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What the heck happened here?

Six hands and a leg to hold everything, get it all back together before I noticed that the shoes I bought eight months ago are much narrower than the ones I took off.

I bought them on Rock Auto and these were the ones they selected.

What do I need exactly?

New one installed, old one rested next to it for comparison.

View attachment 794883
Please get the correct brake lining for the drums you have on the M1009. I would hate to see anyone get hurt / killed and find out an investigation revealed that the incorrect brake shoes where installed on the vehicle. Liability and for the $30. brake shoes and an hours labor the incorrect parts could be installed and the problem fixed. Why chance it. Do it right the first time and never look back. Be Safe Take Care.
 

Mainsail

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I had a funny feeling something was amiss. When I was putting the whole thing back together I had a hard time turning the star wheel. I got to thinking about it and went out after (tele)work today and pulled the wheels and drums off. Yup, put that bottom spring on wrong and the barrel of the spring was jamming the star wheel. Easy enough to pop it back off and turn it around. I actually started putting it on wrong again! Stuck in my brain I guess. Got both sides fixed but...

The right side that had to take a beating to break the drum loose is leaking diff fluid now. :mad:
 

cucvrus

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Beating the drum loose on an M1009 will not create an axle seal leak. I would think the leak is the wheel cylinder. But I would question the wrong width brake shoes creating a bad and forth action in the free play in the axle. On these old vehicles I would advise anyone changing rear brakes to pull the axles, replace the axle seals and lock pin bolt. Also new wheel cylinders and all new brake hardware. I do it once on every CUCV I own and have never had any issues. Even on the Terminus M1009 and we all know how hard that was used. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/terminus-m1009.144523/page-29#post-2211382
Good Luck. I hope everything works out for you. Be Safe. And while you are in there put the correct brake shoes on.
 

Mainsail

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Beating the drum loose on an M1009 will not create an axle seal leak. I would think the leak is the wheel cylinder. But I would question the wrong width brake shoes creating a bad and forth action in the free play in the axle. On these old vehicles I would advise anyone changing rear brakes to pull the axles, replace the axle seals and lock pin bolt. Also new wheel cylinders and all new brake hardware. I do it once on every CUCV I own and have never had any issues. Even on the Terminus M1009 and we all know how hard that was used. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/terminus-m1009.144523/page-29#post-2211382
Good Luck. I hope everything works out for you. Be Safe. And while you are in there put the correct brake shoes on.
Thanks . The narrow shoes were removed and replaced with the proper ones, see post #5.

It smells like diff fluid to me. What's involved in pulling the axle?
 

cucvrus

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Remove the rear 10 bolts differential cover. Turn the ring gear and you will find a 5/16" headed bolt running horizontal thru the center carrier. Remove that bolt. The pin will slide out. You must remove that pin and push the axles in and get the C clips out.
Good Luck. I never remove the spider gears. I use my finger and keep them in alignment. Replace the lock bolt. It has lock tight built into it and they can get cracked on the unthreaded part. It is a $5. item and worth replacing.
 
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Mainsail

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Remove the rear 10 bolts differential cover. Turn the ring gear and you will find a 5/16" headed bolt running horizontal thru the center carrier. Remove that bolt. The pin will slide out. You must remove that pin and push the axles in and get the C clips out.
Good Luck. I never remove the spider gears. I use my finger and keep them in alignment. Replace the lock bolt. It has lock tight built into it and they can get cracked on the unthreaded part. It is a $5. item and worth replacing.
Thanks for the video- doesn't look too bad.

Got the parts and oil, will be attacking this afternoon.
 

Mainsail

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Don't forget the bolt. It is 1 use item and I know from experience. Do it right or don't do it. It is less than $5.
Good Luck and Be Safe.
You wouldn't happen to have the part number would you?

I have to go back to napa for the gasket- they were having it delivered from another store.
 

cucvrus

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Edit














No need for a tool. Cross that bridge when you get there. And only IF. I removed hundreds in my lifetime and maybe 5 broke. Only 1 ever broke the head off the bolt. Then I drove the pin out with a brass drift and replaced the pin and bolt. That was easy. Good Luck. Be Safe.
Differential Pinion Shaft Lock Bolt-4WD NAPA/SOLUTIONS-NOE 6351023
 

Mainsail

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The guy at napa knew what the bolt was- walked over and got it from the peg board.

Everything going smoothly until....

The pinion gears are not coming out. In the video he just rolls them out- but the gov-lock doesn't look like that apparently.

Can't figure out how they come out.

Re1.jpgRe2.jpg
 

cucvrus

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Don't. DO NOT. remove the pinion gears. Roll that up with the bolt down. Remove the lock bolt. The pin will slide out with a mild coaxing. DO NOT roll the gears. I use my finger to keep them in alignment. Roll the gear slightly so you can see the C clips. I pull the big pin. Roll the gear ever so slightly and push the axles in one at a time and magnetically assist the C clips out. When they fall out one side at a time pull the axles out. I hope that helps. Just roll the spider gears slightly to realign as you need to reinstall the pin. Good Luck. I will be here again. I know you can do this.
 

cucvrus

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The guy at napa knew what the bolt was- walked over and got it from the peg board.

Everything going smoothly until....

The pinion gears are not coming out. In the video he just rolls them out- but the gov-lock doesn't look like that apparently.

Can't figure out how they come out.

View attachment 796541View attachment 796542
I can see the C clips in the top photo. After the big pin is pulled out you only have to push the axle in slightly and gently to get them to fall out. Use a dab of wheel bearing grease to reinstall and have a helper tug the axle outward when you have it seated. Use a straight screwdriver if the need arises. Good Luck.
 

Mainsail

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Don't. DO NOT. remove the pinion gears. Roll that up with the bolt down. Remove the lock bolt. The pin will slide out with a mild coaxing. DO NOT roll the gears. I use my finger to keep them in alignment. Roll the gear slightly so you can see the C clips. I pull the big pin. Roll the gear ever so slightly and push the axles in one at a time and magnetically assist the C clips out. When they fall out one side at a time pull the axles out. I hope that helps. Just roll the spider gears slightly to realign as you need to reinstall the pin. Good Luck. I will be here again. I know you can do this.
When I realized you weren't waiting by the forum for my questions, I went outside and figured it out. :D

Question- do I want to use a limited slip additive with the 80/90 gear oil? I got some, just don't know if I want to use it. The LO doesn't mention it for the 1009, but the gov-lock is a limited slip diff. I have it, so use it or don't use it? In other words, is it a bad idea to use it?
 

cucvrus

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No it is a locker when engaged. There is no slip when it is engaged. That is why so many become broken. Thank you. I hope it all works out for you. Be Safe. Glad I could assist. Straight 80/90 works. its all I ever use. I change gear oil annually.
 
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