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M1009 charging issues

tim292stro

Well-known member
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Location
S.F. Bay Area/California
If the key is on, the engine is not spinning, and the circuits are good - the light should be on.

Once the engine is up out of low idle right after a start, the alternator should be charging and the light should go out, and you should see 14.4V from the alternator ground to the alternator positive.

Just work through it, it's not magic, just frustrating :beer:
 

GunnyM1009

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Location
Roanoke/Alabama
Every mechanic I talk to says it has to be the alternators since I am getting voltage to the exciter but the alts still aren't charging. I am lost I am going through all the trobble steps again along with cleaning the firewall connection then if I still have nothing I have to accept the fact that it must be the alternators.
 

GunnyM1009

Well-known member
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Location
Roanoke/Alabama
Just replaced the two larger fusible links on the driver side of the 12v distribution terminal that lead to the harness even though they both looked fine and had continuity. Then bam driver side gen 1 is charging. Now to figure out gen2.
 

tim292stro

Well-known member
2,118
39
48
Location
S.F. Bay Area/California
Yeah, sometimes those links fail looking fine - bad fusible links can conduct for a continuity test but fail to carry an actual load. I've gotten in the habit of doing fusible link tests with a halogen light-bulb fixture - which is made from an old cigar lighter spotlight with a 130Watt H3 bulb. I just cut the plug off and put on two alligator clamps. It pulls at least a 10Amp load through the fusible link, so I can find weak fusible links as the spotlight won't even glow on marginal ones.

This hidden failure is one of the main reasons I personally prefer fuses (that and the fact that they are quicker to change and mostly don't require tools to change).
 

GunnyM1009

Well-known member
354
529
93
Location
Roanoke/Alabama
Yeah I may consider fuses down the road this was just a cheaper way to figure out what my problem was. I got 10ft of 12,14,and16 ga fusible link wire for about $22 all in.
 

GunnyM1009

Well-known member
354
529
93
Location
Roanoke/Alabama
Alright well I have voltage at the 10amp fuse and I have voltage at the relay so I suppose that means tomorrow I am pulling my dash back apart.
 

PeeWeeQ

Member
161
4
18
Location
Altoona, WI
I'm in the same boat and I'll be pulling mine apart tomorrow...Should have some new sockets and bulbs in the mail by tomorrow AM...
 

GunnyM1009

Well-known member
354
529
93
Location
Roanoke/Alabama
I've replaced everything I can think of. I'm hoping I just have a bad connection somewhere. I have about $250 in electrical work and thats just parts.
 

GunnyM1009

Well-known member
354
529
93
Location
Roanoke/Alabama
Problem solved on Gen2 now. The bulb that was in it was perfectly fine but I switched it for a 194 and bam gen2 is now charging. I have 14.8 at the rear battery and 14.3 at the front one. Thanks to everyone that attempted to help me on this. With your help and the rest of the SS forum someone with absolutely 0 automotive electrical knowledge figured out there problem.
 

GunnyM1009

Well-known member
354
529
93
Location
Roanoke/Alabama
I have no idea. I hooked my power probe up to each bulb when i replaced the pcb and sent 12v to them and any that didn't light i replaced. That bulb still lights so i am not sure what the deal is there.
 

PeeWeeQ

Member
161
4
18
Location
Altoona, WI
Didn't get to mine tonight... Won't tomorrow either... Thursday or Friday, hopefully.... Glad you figured it out! I'm hoping for a sigh of relief soon too...
 
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