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M1009 engine swap

nyoffroad

Well-known member
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690
93
Location
Rochester NY
Ok. Thanks for the quick response, although telling me that 3" isn't even close just burst my bubble...hahaha. I do have the tranny canted up a bit by a jack and wood block. The motor is resting on the mounts and the pins are lined up with the holes on the bell housing. I hadn't thought that the bolts would be able to pull a 750# motor into place.(?) either way it's not close enough yet to thread them. Just didn't seem feasible. Maybe a couple of guys with steel pipe pry bars pushing from the front? I don't know. I'm afraid that I may break something, as impossible as that sounds. I'm known for that..haha. Anyway, appreciate the input.
You really shouldn't have "jam" it together. If you have the motor sitting on the mounts then you shouldn't need to have the tranny tilted up in front. What you need is two people , one up top and one down below. I'm assuming that you have the Flexplate mounted on the crank and the converter sitting in the tranny bell houseing , right? Make sure that the TC is slid all the way onto the the input shaft IIRC it has 3 "steps" and is kinda hard to put in there if you've never done it before. With the TC all the way back the engine should just slide in almost place, the guy down below will have to line up the dowl pins on each side of the bell house and the top guy 'wiggles' the engine back. Sometimes you do have to use bolts to pull it together BUT ONLY THE LAST 1/2 INCH OR SO AND MAKE SURE THE PINS ARE LINED UP AND THE T/C IS IN PLACE!!
 

dirtdiver

New member
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Location
Wichita, Kansas
Ok. Pins are lined up, without tranny jacked up, and block is resting on motor mounts. Flywheel is on the block, and the torque converter is properly installed in the tranny. Sounds like I need to get more dudes to "wiggle" 750 pounds back. Jeez, it's so close. You kind of lost me at "IIRC"....what is that? 3 Steps? Believe me, this is very helpful, and I thank you....
 

nyoffroad

Well-known member
942
690
93
Location
Rochester NY
"IIRC"= If I Remember Correctly, at my age that's very importent. Oh yeah , it's only 700pounds :) There's nothing wrong with putting a little oil on those pins.
 

dirtdiver

New member
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Location
Wichita, Kansas
Ahhh....funny. Your advice makes sense, and I really do appreciate the help and advice from all of you. Thank you for taking the time to respond and I will let you know how it turns out.
 

dirtdiver

New member
35
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0
Location
Wichita, Kansas
Ok. I have everything lined up, just need to scoot about another half inch to line up motor mount holes. The pins are in the bell housing and I have two bell housing bolts threaded and in place, but not tightened. I suppose I can use a jack with a wood block to lift the motor on the oil pan?? I'm hoping this will make wiggling the motor back to line up motor mounts and snug up everything. I managed to do this all by myself so far, and I said I would share how I did it. I used a 1 ton engine lift, connected chains to the brackets on front left and rear right on the block. I lifted just enough weight off so I could get back underneath and pry motor back, little by little. It got to a point I could no longer use lift because the arm, even fully extended, could not apply enough rearward force to help it into place. From there, after having gotten close to the pins and motor mounts, I used a pry bar to scoot it back. At this point, Im afraid to use engine lift because it may pull motor forward and out of place. My concern after that is bolting the flywheel to the torque converter. I'm assuming that I should get the motor mounts bolted up before doing that. Anyway, that's about it so far.
 

nyoffroad

Well-known member
942
690
93
Location
Rochester NY
Your doing fine! When useing the bell housing bolts to pull engine/tranny to gether BE CAREFULL! To much force can crack and break a chunk off the bell house! Just snug them up then wiggle, then snug, then wiggle then clunk IT'S IN!!! Don't worry about the T/C to flex plate bolts, it will turn( if it dosn't turn STOP!! the T/C is NOT IN ALL THE WAY!) and you will be able to line them up and install them. As a side note, ever since I had some T/C bolts come loose on a trip and ruin the threads I ALWAYS add a drop of lock tite to them now.
 

dirtdiver

New member
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0
Location
Wichita, Kansas
Thanks guys, for all of your advice and input. I can proudly say, after reading the replies, that I have successfully installed my first motor. lol. I took a little piece of everyone's remarks and put them to use. One of the things that helped, since I did it myself, was to use ratchet tie down straps hooked from the hard points on the motor mounts to the transmission crossmember. This applied constant rearward pressure to allow me to guide that monster right in. I just tightened them as I went along. I was able to take some of the pressure off of the movement by jacking the motor with a wood block cross ways on the oil pan. No damage noted, by the way. I was amazed by being able to drag it in using the bell housing bolts. I really was careful, hoping that nothing would break. I feel pretty pumped, but now I have the task of rewiring this big bastard. Thanks again, gentlemen, for all your advice.
 

dirtdiver

New member
35
0
0
Location
Wichita, Kansas
As a side note, after hooking up the wiring, I'm going to swap injector pumps with the motor I removed. I had replaced it just prior to realizing that the block was cracked, which is why I swapped motors in the first place. Long story. Lol. Then I will remove all usable parts off the old block as spares. What a feeling of accomplishment!
 
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