M1009 LED Problems

[cb88]

Someone at Trucklite must have had a premonition about this thread.... they came out with a heated version last year 27455C

But wow are they expensive.

 

[catamountinsp]

Any recommendations when the 30AMP main lighting fuse melts down? I believe I will need to rteplace the fuse box because of this. Cold my LED head lamps have caused this; they where just installed?

 

[cucvrus]

Common issue. You can split the fuse block and add an inline fuse. the melt is from an over loaded circuit and the heat was caused by the poor connection due to the overload. You will need 2 inline fuse holders to replace that leg of power on the fuse box. I also used a circuit breaker for the light circuit and an inline for the brake light circuit. Good Luck. Mounted to the firewall and kept neat it works just as good as factory without the melting. But yes you could change the entire cab wiring harness. Good Luck. I would splice and heat shrink the repair I mentioned.

 

[catamountinsp]

Common issue. You can split the fuse block and add an inline fuse. the melt is from an over loaded circuit and the heat was caused by the poor connection due to the overload. You will need 2 inline fuse holders to replace that leg of power on the fuse box. I also used a circuit breaker for the light circuit and an inline for the brake light circuit. Good Luck. Mounted to the firewall and kept neat it works just as good as factory without the melting. But yes you could change the entire cab wiring harness. Good Luck. I would splice and heat shrink the repair I mentioned.

Sounds good; I only see one wire coming out the back of my 30 AMP fuse mount; does this mean circuit board is hot and the fuse gets its 12V from box it self or am I missing something? Thank you very much!!!!!

 

[cucvrus]

After you have the fuse block split you will see one leg that supplies power. It's ben a few years since I corrected one of these for this issue. I just remember that 2 fuse holders were serviced from the power that I eliminated and spliced into. Once you get the box split you will understand better. It will have no brake lights if you just cut the 1 wire and hardwire an inline fuse in place. Thus the second inline is needed. I am not an electrician but I fair well with my own wiring and know enough to keep me out of the trouble zone. Good Luck. My advise is only a suggestion. I know for 100% sure it is safe and works. Take Care.

 

[fullthrottle46]

I'll stick with my Trucklite LED headlamps. They are the only ones that made my driving at night easier. They also lightened the load on the lighting circuit. I put LED's thru out my old Crown of Thorns M1009. Everything that had a bulb. Only thing I ever noticed was the head lamps. Sold that and see it now on occasion. The new owner is a hacker. He has it all messed up. I miss it on my wood cutting trips but that's about it. LED's are good and they do help the old CUCV with the light circuit problem. But I never replaced the stock lighting circuit in any of my CUCV's I cut the melt fuse out and replaced it with a circuit breaker in line. Good Luck. LED is the way of the future for now. Something else will be along shortly.

Sorry buddy I ask but what is the melt fuse? I’m trying to get LED’s working properly on my M1031 but to no avail. Blinkers won’t flash, brake lights won’t light up. All bulbs were changed to LED and a got an electronic flasher from Napa. It worked before fine until I put in LED headlights and front turn signals. So I’m just really confused on this setup and I can’t make it work right. I tried that LMC relay harness but have the same issue. No blinkers no brake lights. Also I don’t understand how the driver side headlight harness isn’t connected to anything using that damn relay harness. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thx
Todd

 

[cucvrus]

I found this picture under Google images. CUCV Fuse Box Diagram. The Blue circled is the 30 amp fuse slot that get melted all the time. Mess with that and check out your fuse. I never used any headlamp wiring upgrades. If I had an issue with the melted fuse I cut the wires and replaced the fuse with a circuit breaker or an in line fuse. Check out the fuse area and report back. I hope that helps. Good Luck.

 

[fullthrottle46]

View attachment 839840
I found this picture under Google images. CUCV Fuse Box Diagram. The Blue circled is the 30 amp fuse slot that get melted all the time. Mess with that and check out your fuse. I never used any headlamp wiring upgrades. If I had an issue with the melted fuse I cut the wires and replaced the fuse with a circuit breaker or an in line fuse. Check out the fuse area and report back. I hope that helps. Good Luck.

Thank you for the help. So that main 30 amp fuse blew recently (never have had it melt) and it just made me finally install my LED headlights and LED front grill turn signals. . I already put LED’s in everything else and put in an electronic signal flasher. It all worked as it should, that is until I put the LED headlights and turn signals in. Now the signals in the dash are just lit up green. Won’t blink at all. Everything else is working. I’ve read somewhere it can be the front flashers that gives you this problem. I’m going to put in regular bulbs in a little bit and see. The LMC relay harnesses seems to be pointless as I installed it and I had the same non-blinker issue, so I just went back to a stock setup. Also I don’t know why I can’t find any info on what people did with the driver stock harness that plugs into the headlight when they install this relay harness. Because the instructions are to just leave it disconnected. Makes no sense. Anyways thanks again and I appreciate the dialog.

 

[fullthrottle46]

View attachment 839840
I found this picture under Google images. CUCV Fuse Box Diagram. The Blue circled is the 30 amp fuse slot that get melted all the time. Mess with that and check out your fuse. I never used any headlamp wiring upgrades. If I had an issue with the melted fuse I cut the wires and replaced the fuse with a circuit breaker or an in line fuse. Check out the fuse area and report back. I hope that helps. Good Luck.

WINNER WINNER CHICKEN DINNER!! Put the stock blinker lights back in and everything works as it should off the stock harness and the relay harness. damn strange…. Side makers are LED and rear’s, but for some reason it doesn’t like LED flashers in the front. Oh well, I wonder if it’s the type of LED or something.

 

[fullthrottle46]

So what is the solution to keep LED bulbs in my front turn signals and side markers? I am working on this right now. I have everything working except the front park/turn lights. My front side markers work as both parking lights (on solid) and flashing (turn and hazard). Again, the front park/turn lights wont come on in park, turn or hazard conditions.

I think the easiest option is to cut and ground the flasher wire of the side marker. This would effectively make the side marker a parking light and have no flashing abilities. @laquine is saying something along those lines, I just don't know about the 6V thing. It doesn't really matter as long as we get the right bulbs working.

Also, for reference I pulled my LED side marker light out on one side to see if that front turn signal light would now flash...nothing.

EDIT #3 - a potential solution is to convert side markers to the 1157 style and rewire so there's a ground. They would function just like the front turn signal lights.

Hey man. Did you end up figuring this out? My LED flashers in the front turn signal’s was what was not making the turn signals flash. I have LEDS all the way around and it was those LED’s causing the problem. Running the stock harness or LMC relay harness works with stock bulbs up front. Strange.

 

[Mad Texan]

I ran a resister on the front turn signals when I switched to all led. I tried several different flashers but none seemed to solve the problem. My setup currently works with switch back bulbs in the turn signals, which might be a little fast and furious. But I like the difference in appearance.

 

[fullthrottle46]

I ran a resister on the front turn signals when I switched to all led. I tried several different flashers but none seemed to solve the problem. My setup currently works with switch back bulbs in the turn signals, which might be a little fast and furious. But I like the difference in appearance.

Oh wow that’s cool. Where do you put the resistor? Passenger side right before the plug? And do you have to install a resistor on each flasher harness? Do you mind telling me what resistor I need to get? Sorry I didn’t quite get what ‘switch back bulbs in the turn signals’ mean? Sorry for all the questions.. I just want to get this right. Oh are your flashers white when driving and yellow when turn signals are engaged on the column? I just realized I’m following you on IG. Great work on that M1010. I wish the guy I bought my M1031 from didn’t scrap the damn box and generator.

 

[GunnyM1009]

I ran LED s all the way around mine and only had to change the flasher module in the fuse panel. I remember having to put it in with jumper wires though because the pin out on the flasher module would fit fine but the pins needed a different configuration to run LEDs.

 

[GunnyM1009]

This is what I used. They just didn't have the adapter with mine so I made one out of wire and blade terminals.

 

[fullthrottle46]

This is what I used. They just didn't have the adapter with mine so I made one out of wire and blade terminals.

Right on. Now we’re getting somewhere. So this one I ordered is what I need right? I’m guessing I just use that adapter, plug it in and ground the wire to the body right? I used a Napa auto electronic flasher and I’m guessing that one doesn’t work if you don’t reverse the pins.

United Pacific LED Flasher w/ Polarity Reversing Adapter 12V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GF1A0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_V4NZK32NZZSMNQKDECPG

 

[GunnyM1009]

Right on. Now we’re getting somewhere. So this one I ordered is what I need right? I’m guessing I just use that adapter, plug it in and ground the wire to the body right? I used a Napa auto electronic flasher and I’m guessing that one doesn’t work if you don’t reverse the pins.

United Pacific LED Flasher w/ Polarity Reversing Adapter 12V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GF1A0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_V4NZK32NZZSMNQKDECPG

That's how I did mine and it worked fine. Yes put the wire to a body ground.

 

[fullthrottle46]

That's how I did mine and it worked fine. Yes put the wire to a body ground.

epic! Thx brother man.

 

[GunnyM1009]

epic! Thx brother man.

Good luck man hope it's as simple for you as it was for me.

 

[Mad Texan]

Oh wow that’s cool. Where do you put the resistor? Passenger side right before the plug? And do you have to install a resistor on each flasher harness? Do you mind telling me what resistor I need to get? Sorry I didn’t quite get what ‘switch back bulbs in the turn signals’ mean? Sorry for all the questions.. I just want to get this right. Oh are your flashers white when driving and yellow when turn signals are engaged on the column? I just realized I’m following you on IG. Great work on that M1010. I wish the guy I bought my M1031 from didn’t scrap the damn box and generator.

The resistors are commonly available (ebay, superbright led), I did one before the plug on both sides. The bulbs are white and then flash yellow.

 

[fullthrottle46]

Good luck man hope it's as simple for you as it was for me.

MAN!! I did exactly what you said and they will only both flash when you turn your indicator(blinker) on. It’s like I have my hazards on, all 4 blinking. Maybe it’s the LED bulbs I’m using? They’re these:

Phinlion Super Bright 3014 72-SMD BA15S 1156 1073 7506 Amber Yellow LED Light Bulbs for Turn Signal Blinker Lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D579C9...abc_1R9KKK9RE835DWJ8N6BT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Which bulbs did you use? Thx in advance, it’s strange that this is such a PIA! The Front bulbs are only LED issue, everything else works. Oh and I did try them with and without the relay harness connected.