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M1009 needing a new engine?

cowboywitek

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Noblesville IN
Hello soldiers,
I've had my first cucv vehicle which is an m1009 since June of last year. It was running literally like a brand new truck, everything working right, and two days later it wouldnt start. since then, it hasnt been on the road, and only in and out of mechanic garages. I've replaced nearly everything under the hood, and what I have not replaced the mechanic says is ok, such as IP pump, injectors, glow plugs etc. needless to say, steel soldiers has been a huge help. It is at a diesel mechanic shop right now, and the current situation is that there is no compression. According to them, most of the pistons are shot, and after a compression test, the psi ranged from 90 to around 130, obviously not near enough for the truck to start, let alone run. My question now after investing thousands into this thing, all the time to be a basic commuter truck, what is there to do now? the truck had 2 owners before me, and wasnt treated rough to my knowledge. Anyway, I now this is probably a very broad question, but I was hoping you all could assist with what could be done, either replacing the engine, rebuilding it or whatever else could help. Thanks in advance for your input!

Here's a pic for curiosities sake..
999649_374098049358432_1763966394_n.jpg
 

nyoffroad

Well-known member
906
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93
Location
Rochester NY
Call it quits and sell it to me! :) OK I tried, I'd start looking for a new(used) engine. Plenty of them around and that will be the cheapest way out. Find one that has low miles and the seller will stand behind. If you choose to rebuild your not only going to pay the mechanic to R&I the engine but also a machine shop for possibly a lot of work. I can see a new crankshaft and balancer, pistons rings ect. Going used you'll also have your old one to strip for spare parts.
 

GPrez

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Mt. Airy, MD
Personally, I would rebuild my own. This way you know exactly what you have. Any used engine is a crap shoot unless you know the person that's been running it.
 

M1009 NEWBEE 2013

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Colorado
a few of the members with 009's have had trouble rebuilding them, as once taken apart, cracks are discovered that prevent rebuild. As long as you are prepared to go new or used, if discovered, then it won't matter. You should be able to find a new 6.2 or 6.5 pretty easily. sorry to hear about all of your trouble, I have 65K on my engine and it had 61K when I got it, so far, so good but you never know. i love my truck and if the engine ever crapped out, Id spend the mooney and go new 6.2.
 

cowboywitek

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Noblesville IN
Thanks so much guys. So out of curiosity, I'm in Central Indiana and from what I've searched on the web, where would you go about getting a used or new 6.2 engine? I think I'll start with trying to rebuild it, but if its too far gone then I'll try for a new or used engine. I've just got too much invested in it to let it go without having barely driven it.
 

dependable

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Tisbury, Massachusetts
It was running literally like a brand new truck, everything working right, and two days later it wouldnt start.
I would be wondering what would cause the compression to deteriorate so fast. What is mileage, did you use either on it, any signs of bad head gasket, do you trust the shop? Could be legit, just saying.
 

cowboywitek

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Noblesville IN
I would be wondering what would cause the compression to deteriorate so fast. What is mileage, did you use either on it, any signs of bad head gasket, do you trust the shop? Could be legit, just saying.
This is what I've been asking myself for the past 8 months! its crazy, the owner before me was the second owner and he only drove it around town.. the mechanic shop its at right now is a good place, they specialize only in diesels, and they've dealt with military trucks before. Fact is, I'm just tired of messing with it and it needs to be on the road. They did two compression tests on it and both times in pointed to low compressed cylinders. The mileage is 47,000 I believe, which could obviously also mean 147,000.
 

cowboywitek

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Noblesville IN
Well looks like after some time the mechanic where my truck is at priced a rebuild at nearly the same price as a new Jasper engine. So now I'm looking at around 6k to drop a new engine in the truck. I just cant get around the fact that something else has to be causing the low compression unless in some unrealistic instance the compression dropped after owning it for 2 days. Is there anything else that can be done besides replacing the engine? it just seems crazy that at this low of mileage it would need to be replaced.
 

TXFirefighter

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Tomball, TX.
Mine weren't compression issues but I have opened two engines now and had crackes in the webs of the #2, 3, 4 main bearings.
One of the $wd mags bought a 1008 CUCV and it had low compression where it wouldn't start. they dropped a little ATF down the intake to wet the rings and Volla! up and running. They eventually swapped the engine for a hugh displacement big block but... That was cheap and might be worth a try???? Only other thing I can think of would be the timing ring in the IP. if it let go the thing wouldn't start but it would smoke like the dickens when you crank it over.
 

nyoffroad

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Rochester NY
Are all the cylinders low? Ifso they didn't just "lose" all thier compression without a reason. Did someone change the oil and forget to add the new oil or put the plug back in? Wouldn't be the first time! It also wouldn't be the first time the damage was passed onto the owner. It's a long shot but could the timing chain have jumped? I don't know if it could happen on a 6.2 but that would cause a sudden loss of compression on all cylinders.
Did the shop do a dry compression test AND then a wet test? If so was there a difference?
 

lostintexas

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Houston, TX
Have you verified the glow plugs are getting power? There is a thread around about how to test and it's easy to do. Could the controller card have failed so not GPs? That would explain the sudden failure. Also, did they say how low the compression was?
 

cowboywitek

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Noblesville IN
The cylinders ranged from 90psi to about 160 I believe. Oil is fine, I also had a concern about the timing chain but the mechanic blew air through the cylinders and it came out of the pistons, concluding that the rings were most likely shot. so according to them, regardless of the timing possibly effecting the compression, this test kinda side passes that idea.
 

nyoffroad

Well-known member
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Location
Rochester NY
The cylinders ranged from 90psi to about 160 I believe. Oil is fine, I also had a concern about the timing chain but the mechanic blew air through the cylinders and it came out of the pistons, concluding that the rings were most likely shot. so according to them, regardless of the timing possibly effecting the compression, this test kinda side passes that idea.
A mechanic that knows what he's doing would write down the PSI of each cylinder for comparison and to show the customer. I stand by what I said earlier, it didn't just happen. At 4?,000 miles that engine hasn't even hit mid-life yet.
I'd guess that your engine knowledge is lacking a little so I recommend you have someone else take a look at it.
Start at the beginning/basics, fuel,air, and the glow plugs. The glow plugs will not effect compression but do we even know for sure this mecanic isn't useing a compression gauge for a gas engine? (and getting a bad reading)
If all the cyl. are about 160 except two next to each other then my guess is a head gasket.
 

cowboywitek

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Noblesville IN
A mechanic that knows what he's doing would write down the PSI of each cylinder for comparison and to show the customer. I stand by what I said earlier, it didn't just happen. At 4?,000 miles that engine hasn't even hit mid-life yet.
I'd guess that your engine knowledge is lacking a little so I recommend you have someone else take a look at it.
Start at the beginning/basics, fuel,air, and the glow plugs. The glow plugs will not effect compression but do we even know for sure this mecanic isn't useing a compression gauge for a gas engine? (and getting a bad reading)
If all the cyl. are about 160 except two next to each other then my guess is a head gasket.

He showed me a sheet with each of the psi numbers on it, I just remember them being between that range.. also its solely a diesel mechanic shop and they've tested the glow plugs, ip, an everything that leads to a starting and compression issue. I totally agree with you that it seems impossible for the engine, in this case, the piston seals to be shot already. I personally dont know a whole lot about these things besides reading on here about them. however the shop has tested everything out and it has led to the pistons having bad seals, thus not holding compression. I'm just surprised that it suddenly lost power when I got it. I mean I've heard rumors that GM only built these things to last around 100k.. not sure if thats true, I mean a 6.2 is a 6.2 regardless of it being military.
 

nyoffroad

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Rochester NY
OK, glad to hear that they did have the info on the PSI. As far as GM building them to last 100K, I'd better tell my son! After all that 6.2 I gave him had about 400,000 on it when I pulled it out and it was just starting puff oil smoke. It used a lot but that was cause the oil pan had a hole rusted thru in the side of it.
I'd love to see the inside of that engine, I guess it's the rings could be bad but just dosn't sound right. Someone in the past may have run it without oil and it's possible that you just never heard an abnormal knock.
If the rings really are that bad your looking at a COMPLETE rebuild. That means sending the block out to a machine shop, all new everything $$$. I don't know what to advise cause it's a lot of money either way.
 

cowboywitek

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Noblesville IN
Thanks nyoffroad, its a crappy situation either way but I'm just trying to decide whether or not to have them put a new engine in it. of course thats a 6k investment but in the long run I think it'd be worth not having any engine problems in the near future.
 

Shankem-Deep

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Ada, Oklahoma
They used to have these for a lot cheaper, around $900 or so. http://www.boyceequipment.com/#!engines/c18ta
They must be getting harder to come by. Anyway here is another option. Get a harbor freight shop crane http://www.harborfreight.com/shop-crane-2-ton-foldable-69514.html and do the swap yourself. Take the hood off to give yourself plenty of room. Take pictures and make notes. Take your time and and save yourself some $$$$.
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
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Location
Schertz TX
My guess would be stuck rings. This happens when oil is improper, engine running excessively hot, low engine oil, or late injection timing. This is an indirect injected engine so piston temperature shouldn't be an issue unless timing is off or injectors leaking.

Now, with that said, using transmission fluid to free up the rings might work. Rings don't normally wear out unless you get a ton of abrasive dirt in the engine oil that passes through the filter. Or use kerosine as engine oil.
 

cowboywitek

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Noblesville IN
Thanks a bunch guys! I think thats what I'm gonna do, get it home and try a swap myself or get rid of the thing period.. Mechanic bills are just getting old.
 
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