M1009 Printed Circuit Board

[GunnyM1009]

I realize this topic has been touched on many times but in every thread I read it states that there is not an aftermarket pcb that will work on the M1009. Well my pcb is shot which is causing one of my gens not to work and none of my cluster lights. After searching around on good ole google for awhile i found this. The photo should be on the post. Now after zooming in and comparing to my original it looks as if all the circuit ribbon routing is identical. Any thoughts.

 

[cucvrus]

I bought the printed circuit board a couple of times from LMC and it did the job perfectly. It is the same circuit board for a civilian truck with idiot lights.

 

[GunnyM1009]

Thats what I was hoping to hear. The po of this thing just let it go badly so now I am attempting to resurrect it. Mainly electrical stuff that has crapped out.

 

[cucvrus]

I don't have a catalog near me but I think the part number on the back of the circuit board is the same number in the LMC catalog. I am relying on memory and I have a lot of things in there at times. Good Luck. YOUPULLITS are a nice place to find an entire GM idiot light cluster for $25.

 

[GunnyM1009]

10-4 I appreciate the info I will be ordering it soon then hopefully my electronics will be ironed out

 

[Jozseph]

I realize this topic has been touched on many times but in every thread I read it states that there is not an aftermarket pcb that will work on the M1009. Well my pcb is shot which is causing one of my gens not to work and none of my cluster lights. After searching around on good ole google for awhile i found this. The photo should be on the post. Now after zooming in and comparing to my original it looks as if all the circuit ribbon routing is identical. Any thoughts.

Review Classic Industries, see URL:

http://www.classicindustries.com/shop/truck/parts/dash-components/printed-circuits

Regards

Joseph

 

[Warthog]

There are a couple of parts numbers listed in the Instrument cluster threads in the CUCV Helpful Threads sticky.

 

[brianrbull]

I installed a dash cluster with gauges... Some simple swapping of wires and a sending unit....

 

[overlordofmars]

They are common, I cheated and converted my dash to an actual oil pressure gauge by using three clusters for parts. Added in led back light bulbs for effect.

 

[Recovry4x4]

I installed a dash cluster with gauges... Some simple swapping of wires and a sending unit....

I have the same quest. How did you deal with alts 1 and 2 lights?

 

[cucvrus]

IMHO. Simple leave the stock cluster in place and install a set of after market gauges. The more expensive ones are more accurate then the OEM cluster gauges anyway. You'll need 2 alternator gauges, oil pressure/temp. Water temp. and the list goes on. I have all these gauges in my Crown of Thorns M1009. I also have a set of gear oil temp,transmission temp, transfer case temp engine oil temp and 2 exhaust pyrometers. I have not installed them but I have them and plan on installing them as a novelty item. I know I don't need the pyrometer gauges(no turbo) But it would just be for fun/novelty. I stalled on installing the transmission temperature gauge because of the location of the sending unit. It says on the pan. No way i am putting it on the pan. i drive through logging roads and the wiring would be ripped off in an instant. I grab enough kindling under the Crown to start a fire every time I go in the woods. Any ideas wher i can mount the sending unit up safe and high? I was thinking one of the cooler lines.

 

[GunnyM1009]

The cooling line would probably be your safest bet. It might not be exact but it should be close as far as the reading you get.

 

[87J]

I have the same quest. How did you deal with alts 1 and 2 lights?

Just an idea you could add a couple generic lights by the low coolant and wait light there should be plenty of room. The c60 series trucks often had lots of lights in that area and used the same gauge cluster.

 

[GunnyM1009]

I ordered the dummy light pcb it should be here on the 18th. I will try to get it in this weekend and give updates on what it fixed. None of my cluster backlights worked. My gen 1 light didn't work and my fuel gauge didn't work so it would be nice if this fixes all of it being that it controls all of it.

 

[GunnyM1009]

Just got a update from the shipping company. My pcb is waiting on me at home. The what all it fixed update will come late this afternoon or tomorrow.

 

[Warthog]

Make sure you clean the ground wire located near the parking brake. It has the 6 lug connection on it. Second picture in this thread
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?50551-CUCV-Switches-Diodes-Relays

And service the bulb sockets. A good cleaning will do wonders. While you are at it clean the connectors on the cluster pigtail.

Also disconnect your batteries before you start. There are live wires in the cluster pigtail.

Read the Cluster threads in the CUCV Helpful Threads sticky

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?123199-CUCV-Helpful-Threads

 

[GunnyM1009]

Thanks for the advice Warthog I have already serviced the bulb sockets with a brass wire brush and a little dioelectric grease. Did the same with the pigtail. Haven't checked the ground wire yet i will though.

 

[GunnyM1009]

Update: 4x4 light now works. Gen1 light now works. Oil light now works. Gauge backlights work. Fuel gauge appears to work i got a little over half a tank. Blinker lights work and bright light indicator works. Now i have no gen2 light when i had one before

 

[Dave Kay]

My printed circuit board replacement is on hold for now and I haven't even fished the gauge cluster out from the dash yet. However. from the looks of it, it seems easier to remove the whole dash pad then get after the cluster. That I haven't done yet.

Meanwhile, since dumb questions are my specialty, here's one: the thing that keeps me wondering about this job is exactly HOW, or if, does one remove the old printed circuit from back of cluster and then install the new printed circuit? Is the old PC 'glued' to back of cluster with adhesive or ???? In other words, what exactly holds the NEW printed circuit to the back of the cluster--- sticky stuff?

 

[GunnyM1009]

The old pcb is held on by your light sockets just twist and pull them out and push out the 3 pins for the fuel gauge and the pcb just falls off. You have to take the wire harness loose to. Disconnect batteries before doing any of the above. Also it is easier with the dash pad off. No sticky stuff required put the new one back the way the old one came off.