M1009 Starter/Switch help.. need some pointers.

[OGMurph]

Hey guys,

Long time no post. I've just had an issue after a great day of catching crab out in Oxnard, CA i drove 50 miles round trip and parked the car for the evening. When I Went to fire it up this morning it gave me a half of a click for the turn over and then didnt fire. My CUCV came with a glow plug relay switch already done so i can still get them to clunk and "glow".

I pulled the starter off from the advice of my friendly mechanic and he said to test the starter post to the battery post to see if it fired and it does. So that leads me to believe its a switch?? like the park/neutral safety switch or the ignition switch...

I dont know the best way to access this and would love some advice on the best way on going about that.. and what these things im looking for look like. should i try to lower the column or should i take the instrument pannel out? or come in from the bottom.. im kinda lost..

I gave it a good google and forum search and didnt find enough information ...

I've never looked these things so any extra pictures or help would be appreciated!

thanks.

 

[m38inmaine]

I would check the starter relay under the dash, it's next to the diagnostic plug. The can stop working or stick on, search for doghead relay.

 

[OGMurph]

Ive got the starter relay off and opened up the cap... what am i looking for really?

 

[GREENMV]

Check Fuse just In case. 42. ENGINE WILL NOT CRANK (NO AUDIBLE CLICK FROM STARTER SOLENOID)
Step 1. Check 20 amp ignition fuse. (See paragraph 4-12)
Replace fuse if burned out.

 

[OGMurph]

Hey thanks.. first thing I checked was the fuse..but I'll take all the suggestions as I'm guessing. The starter relay isn't clicking.. so I ordered a new one.. don't know what else is in line between this and my ignition... So if you have any other ideas let me know.

 

[german m1008]

Before I split half the car ...... I would check the batteries

 

[firefox]

I would do the dog head mod instead of just replacing that relay. Those relays are
bad news.

 

[OGMurph]

Thanks.

 

[HelluvaEngineer]

I would do the dog head mod instead of just replacing that relay. Those relays are
bad news.

I can tell you for a fact that the new AC Delco relays made in China will sometimes fry themselves on first use. They simply aren't worth using. The solenoid from the doghead mod are now available on Amazon for $11. You can install one in 30 minutes or less, depending on if you solder the connections.

 

[OGMurph]

I've been sold on swapping the out the relay.. just wanna see if I put in the new one and it turns over.

Thanks for the info!

 

[firefox]

Just be alert and have your hand on the relay so you can yank it out if you get starter run on.

 

[OGMurph]

That's a big 10-4.

 

[cucvrus]

Just unplug the stock relay and jump across the outer 2 wires. That will tell you if it is the relay. i have all OEM relays on my trucks. never cut any wiring. But that's me do as you wish. 1 new relay and a good set of batteries will cure all that relay issue. Only time I ever had issues was with low amp batteries. but if you want jump the wires and see what happens. It could be the starter that went out in a heart beat. Not the first time I seen it on all vehicles before. Good Luck. Report back.

 

[OGMurph]

My batteries both tested good with load tester. I jumped the two wires and no luck. I pulled the starter early to see if it was bound. And while it was down I jumped the battery Pole to the starter pole and the starter ran. Are there any other relays or anything else in line?

 

[cucvrus]

Neutral safety switch at the bottom of the steering column under the dash. I didn't think that would not allow you to crank that just has Back up wires going to it. Worth a try. The vehicle is still 24volt?

 

[cucvrus]

While you are under the hood look at all the fusible link wires. i think it sounds a bit like a burnt fusible link wire. It may be the one that runs the width of the firewall under the hood. That blue end of the wire where it connects to the power point at the left of the master cylinder. get a test light and start checking for current. A test light or a volt meter. i use a test light 95% of the time and have been getting by for years that way. very simple and put some time and effort and can fix anything. Still don't know how to properly read a schematic. Too old to learn. maybe to stubborn. Check all the wires and report back. Is this still 24 volt?

 

[firefox]

cucvrus: On most things, I agree with you not to change things from the original design.
Maybe I had bad luck, but when the original relay died and I got a proper replacement,
it died within a few months. I took the shell off of the relay and removed the internals.
then I connected wires to the pins and fed them thru the shell via a gromet. I mounted another
heavy duty relay to the same backing plate and attached those wires. This way the wiring harness was not changed and all I had to do was plug that make shift plug back into its socket
Like I said, I agree with most everthing you say on here and I really admire your work.

 

[OGMurph]

New relay. No turning over.

 

[cucvrus]

New relay. No turning over.

Keep looking I think you have a burnt fusible link. Hard to diagnose from Pennsylvania. But I will do what I can to help you.

 

[OGMurph]

Cucvrus.. I am breaking out the test light and following the fuseable links down.. how many are in line with the starter?


and could it be ignition switch?

Or anything else you can think of.

Really appreciate your guys help. Thanks for your time and knowledge.