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M1009 starting problems

REDWOLF

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Here lately been having problems with longer than normal start times. Replaced all the glow plugs and ends because they where bad. Now it takes longer crank time than it did before or starts. Yesterday drove 20 minutes home shut it off went in the house for about half hour or so went back out to run down to the store just cranked would not start. Took the wife's car down to the store and back about 20 minutes. Tried to start ot again the first time or seamed like the starter was bogged down. Hit the key again and it turned over a few times and started. Any ideas were to start?
 

patracy

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Little more detail needed. Are you using the resistor pack or just tapping 12V for the glow plugs? What kind of plugs did you install? (I bought some cheap ones from Advance Auto that lasted only a short time, cranking got harder and harder). But AECS pointed out other things to check. Batteries and fuel/fuel system would be next.
 

REDWOLF

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Ok more info. I am still running everything stock. I installed a new set of ac delco 60g glow plugs. It has not been cold enough her in Northeast Maryland for the fuel to gel. The fuel filter I may changed back in the summer time. Thinking it might be the module under the dash. Don't know for sure? Some times it will make a load clicking sound sometimes it does not. She had always started fine until six out of eight plugs went bad. Replaced them with the new ones same brand and now she has a longer crank time and it had not been really cold, low 30s.
 

cpf240

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Were the old glow plugs bad? If so, perhaps the new glow plugs are putting more of a load on weak batteries, thus the starter 'bogging down'. Also, should measure the output side of the glow plug solenoid when it is energized, as the glow plug solenoid contacts can get a carbon buildup on them, and then it doesn't work so well.
 

Hasdrubal

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Starter bogged down, sounds like batteries are weak. In colder weather I really notice the difference in cranking speed even with new batteries. AC60's require more burn time to get to maximum temperature, I have mine on a manual push button.
 

cucvrus

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I am going to go a different route. I feel if you drove it home and after 20 minutes it would not start. That could mean it is dropping fuel and each time in the morning you are having to crank it to re-prime the pump and nozzles. That is just my guess. I think the glow plugs are working but you have no fuel present to fire at time of start up and then again when you have a warm start up it has no fuel present. Check for leaks and wet spots are leaks. Check the throttle shaft on the injection pump and behind the fuel filter area. Have you ever had this problem before?
 

REDWOLF

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I had to replace the mechanical fuel pump years ago because the check valve went bad allowing the fuel to drain back to the tank every time it was shut off.
 

REDWOLF

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Were the old glow plugs bad? If so, perhaps the new glow plugs are putting more of a load on weak batteries, thus the starter 'bogging down'. Also, should measure the output side of the glow plug solenoid when it is energized, as the glow plug solenoid contacts can get a carbon buildup on them, and then it doesn't work so well.
Yes I checked them with my ohm meter all but three.
 

tbearatkin

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You may have a GP relay going bad. With a stock system (GP resister not bypassed) when the GP go bad you put more volts into the relay. When you go back to 12 volts because you now have 8 good GP the relay may start chattering, which means it is turning on and off multiple times. This is why most people, bypass the resistor and draw 12 volts off of the firewall to run the GP. Also check your battery connections, a corroded or loose wire can cause issue. Conduct a load test on your battery. Verify all your GP's are still good.
 

gottaluvit

Well-known member
It's not turning over slow it just takes longer than it did to fire.
Ok. Thanks for clarification. I put new glow plugs in this last fall and cycled them too many times and burnt 6 of them up, swelling them too, in minutes. They were Delco 13s. Major newbie to diesel move, but it sounds like you're no newbie. You could use the ohmmeter on them to eliminate. If they're good, it's fuel related.
 

cucvrus

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I am keeping my diagnosis in the fuel related issue. If it cranks fine and the glow plugs are working then it should start. Do you see any smoke from the exhaust pipes? Any smoke at all is an indication that fuel is present and unable to fire. But no smoke means no fuel is present. When no fuel is present it will not even start on ether. It may attempt to fire up on either but will just bind and momentarily burn the ether and not start. I am not talking about a lot of ether just a very little will do it. If not fuel is not present in the combustion chambers.
 

tbearatkin

Member
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Location
SouthWestTennessee
Fuel issue, is it making it to the IP, Take the return line off the IP and see if fuel is being returned when it turns over. Manual has troubleshooting step by step. Without being there hard to say. Low battery will cause chattering of the GP relay and so will a GP relay that is going bad. Any ether(starting fluid) is strongly DISCOURAGED. Turn on key and check volts on each side of your GP relay. Key on should have 12volts. Key off should be none.
 
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