M1009 temp gauge

[cucvrus]

I have sold many of them to people that used them for temperature gauge and electric fan sensor holes. I only have complete new HMMWV coolant cross over manifolds anymore. No used ones. I never installed the HMMWV manifold on one myself I just used the passengers side rear head port to put my temperature sending unit is. Or i just done nothing at all and left it stock. Both reaped the same results. It is pretty hard to over heat a CUCV if you keep up on the pre trip and regular maintenance. Hi speed 70-75 heavy hauling on the interstate with the bed loaded and the snow plow attached has my temp light flicker a few times. i just lower the plow so it is 2 inches off the highway and I have not problems. I had a co-worker call me and tell me the sail boat light (hi temp) was flickering on and off. That was a good one. The hi-temp light does look somewhat like a sail boat in the Red Sea. I am going to be changing the fan clutch on my plow truck to see if that is the problem. On the upside. When it is 12 degrees and the temperature light flickers. The cab and defrost sure do have plenty of heat. Have a great day. Don't make work for yourself. If it ain't broke don't fix it. Nicer weather is coming.

 

[cucvrus]

I put a NOS hmmwv gauge in mine next to the volt gauge. I too put the sensor in the water pump. It reads cool, but I know where "normal" operating temp is on it. That way my dummy light is still functional.

I am curious about the crossover as well.


My setup:
View attachment 607612

View attachment 607612Are you running 24 volt to the gauge and sending unit? All HMMWV gauges and sending units are 24 volt. Not like a CUCV with 24/12 mix on certain items, That could be the reason for the results and the low temperature. Just a thought. I know I have lots of HMMWV gauges/lights/indicators and have not used them because they are 24volt. I did use a HMMWV horn and when you put 12 volt to it it sounded sick. I wired it 24 volt on a seperate fuse and harness. Just an idea. Thought I would mention it. Not sure why the post went wacky and re-posted 2 pictures.

 

[Drock]

Is the HMMWV crossover a direct fit on the 6.2?
No modifications?

Yes it is direct bolt in. But before you install it, take it to the hardware store to get fit brass plugs for the bosses you won't be using.

 

[REDWOLF]

I have sold many of them to people that used them for temperature gauge and electric fan sensor holes. I only have complete new HMMWV coolant cross over manifolds anymore. No used ones. I never installed the HMMWV manifold on one myself I just used the passengers side rear head port to put my temperature sending unit is. Or i just done nothing at all and left it stock. Both reaped the same results. It is pretty hard to over heat a CUCV if you keep up on the pre trip and regular maintenance. Hi speed 70-75 heavy hauling on the interstate with the bed loaded and the snow plow attached has my temp light flicker a few times. i just lower the plow so it is 2 inches off the highway and I have not problems. I had a co-worker call me and tell me the sail boat light (hi temp) was flickering on and off. That was a good one. The hi-temp light does look somewhat like a sail boat in the Red Sea. I am going to be changing the fan clutch on my plow truck to see if that is the problem. On the upside. When it is 12 degrees and the temperature light flickers. The cab and defrost sure do have plenty of heat. Have a great day. Don't make work for yourself. If it ain't broke don't fix it. Nicer weather is coming.

How much are the new ones. I don't know if I will get one probably just stock the gauge in the head, not really worried about it over heating just like the thought of a temp gauge instead of a light.

 

[REDWOLF]

All bundled up for winter driving. Lol

 

[M1008BOV]

Are you running 24 volt to the gauge and sending unit? All HMMWV gauges and sending units are 24 volt. Not like a CUCV with 24/12 mix on certain items, That could be the reason for the results and the low temperature. Just a thought. I know I have lots of HMMWV gauges/lights/indicators and have not used them because they are 24volt. I did use a HMMWV horn and when you put 12 volt to it it sounded sick. I wired it 24 volt on a seperate fuse and harness. Just an idea. Thought I would mention it. Not sure why the post went wacky and re-posted 2 pictures.

Thanks for the info. I'd have to find my thread, to remember all the questions I asked, but it is hooked up 12v right now. I believe the main reason for my low temp readings is because I'm reading in the water pump right after the radiator where the water would be it's coolest. I either need to relocate to a crossover or just go to the head. The sending unit I have won't fit in the head, so I'll have to find something different.

This is the sending unit I am using: M35, M54, M800, M900, M151Temperature Sending Unit, MS24537-1, 6685-00-814-5271

Gauge is : HMMWV M998 Temp Temperature Gauge 12338473 NSN 6685011809037

 

[Tinstar]

Yes it is direct bolt in. But before you install it, take it to the hardware store to get fit brass plugs for the bosses you won't be using.

Perfect !

Ordering one now

Have sensor in the water pump location and want it to be more accurate

thanks !

 

[Drock]

Perfect !

Ordering one now

Have sensor in the water pump location and want it to be more accurate

thanks !

One more thing I forgot to mention. Make sure to use gaskets and (thermostat housing gasket sealer), the normal sealer WILL FAIL!

 

[Hennek]

You can just stick the sending unit in the hole where the idiot light sending unit is on the drivers side front head. Or in the back top side of the passengers side rear head. Across from the glow plug temp sending unit. Your choice. Strill others use the HMMWV coolant manifold and put the sending unit in one of the available ports on the coolant crossover manifold.

Hey CUCVRUS, you've helped me once before on a different thread and I have just one question regarding this thread. I have a coolant temp gauge with sending unit [not 100% sure the thread pattern but will check when home] I'm installing and was just going to use the dummy light location on the driver's side front head like you suggested here. I just noticed that the previous owner of my m1009 has the cold start advance/high idle disconnected on the passenger side near the firewall. I think this is due to him switching the rig over to a glow plug push button in the cab as well as a high idle switch instead. The rig starts, runs, and drives very well so im not interested in messing with any of that its just some background info. My question is, can I install my temp gauge at this location, considering i can match thread patterns? Or am I best off going in the dummy light location?

Thanks for any help here!

 

[cucvrus]

Either way will give you a decent reading. And the holes in the front of the head are the same size as the back. The heads can be switched side to side. There is not right and left head when they are setting on the floor and not attached to the engine. Maybe the back side will give a more accurate reading since some say the engine gets hotter back there. Good Luck.

 

[Hennek]

Either way will give you a decent reading. And the holes in the front of the head are the same size as the back. The heads can be switched side to side. There is not right and left head when they are setting on the floor and not attached to the engine. Maybe the back side will give a more accurate reading since some say the engine gets hotter back there. Good Luck.

I learn something new every time im on this site. Thanks rus. I'll be tackling the job this weekend hopefully. I'll reply back here later on and update what temp readings I get from the back side.

 

[Keith_J]

Stock heater core and heater works great for pickup cab but nearly nothing for the 1009 when it is really cold. Blocking the radiator won't do much unless your thermostat is failed open.
I would go with a supplemental heater mounted between the front seats. There is plenty of coolant flow with a closed thermostat, parallel with the stock heater.

My 1031 did fantastic during our last blizzard, even at 10 °F. I am running a thermostat made in Israel..after two failed Gates brand.

 

[Hennek]

I learn something new every time im on this site. Thanks rus. I'll be tackling the job this weekend hopefully. I'll reply back here later on and update what temp readings I get from the back side.

I removed the Cold start advance/high idle sensor on the passenger side and replaced it with my temp gauge sender. The plug is 3/8 NPT if anyone is curious. After a while of warming up in the driveway, I took it on a trip around the farm. The gauge read a max of 180 F and I'd say I'm pretty pleased. I haven't taken it up to hwy speeds to see how much hotter it'll get.