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M1009 transmission kickdown switch

M1009Kev

New member
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19
3
Location
North Carolina
I noticed that the kickdown switch at the throttle pedal isn't being engaged, even at full throttle.
It moves freely by hand though.

What is the proper adjustment for that switch?

Thanks,
Kevin

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M1009Kev

New member
13
19
3
Location
North Carolina
I'm beginning to wonder if the throttle pedal is moving at full travel or not.
I'm hoping that someone on here could give me some insight as to how far the pedal is supposed to travel.


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Keith_J

Well-known member
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Schertz TX
Switch needs to be engaged at full throttle. It forces a downshift if allowed per engine speed and gear. Plus it increases hydraulic pressure to fully engage clutches.
 

M1009Kev

New member
13
19
3
Location
North Carolina
Try posting a pic or two, I'm trying to figure out what switch you're talking about.
Here is a stock photo of one. I broke mine taking it apart to see if I could adjust it. It is located on the go pedal bracket under the dashboard. At full throttle, the metal bar of the pedal assembly barely touched the switch. The throttle would have needed to travel about another 3.4 inch in order to engage the switch and allow it to make electrical contact.
th400 switch.jpg
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I have a few of them switches. Send me an address I will send you one. An OEM take off. I never had one fail. Make sure the Orange wire is plugged into the transmission. And make sure it has continuity. I had more than one that the wire was disconnected and one or 2 that had no wire. It was cut off. One genius ran a ground wire to the switch from the frame. ????? 40 years of Hacking has paid it's toll on the poor CUCV fleet. Keep hacking. It just makes the originals worth more.
 

M1009Kev

New member
13
19
3
Location
North Carolina
I have a few of them switches. Send me an address I will send you one. An OEM take off. I never had one fail. Make sure the Orange wire is plugged into the transmission. And make sure it has continuity. I had more than one that the wire was disconnected and one or 2 that had no wire. It was cut off. One genius ran a ground wire to the switch from the frame. ????? 40 years of Hacking has paid it's toll on the poor CUCV fleet. Keep hacking. It just makes the originals worth more.
Thank you sir! I sent you a DM.

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M1009Kev

New member
13
19
3
Location
North Carolina
I installed one of CUCVRUS' kickdown switches in place of mine that I broke (thank you CUCVRUS!)

My throttle bar still doesn't make contact, or just barely, with the switch's peg, and I know that it's mounted correctly. So, I think that the throttle either isn't able to move at full travel or that the throttle bar is bent or out of adjustment.

I have a suspicion that it could be an incorrect or too tight of a throttle cable that possibly a PO may have installed. But, I don't know that for sure. At least two other people have owned it before me.

Both pics are showing the throttle fully depressed.
 

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cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,441
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
In lieu of placing a rubber hose on the peg of the switch we could all learn the real cause of the issue. If it is a throttle cable lets correct that issue. If it is the accelerator pedal lets replace it with the correct one. Putting makeshift repairs and add on parts does not correctly resolve the issue. I see makeshift/half fast repairs on vehicles all the time. I have the correct parts. I put on the correct parts. Reverse engineering. The fact that I have the parts is not the reason I suggest that you replace parts. I can keep the parts and you can add a hose and wonder what the problem is. Send me a PM and I can get you what you need. Let's see the other end of the cable where it attaches to the injection pump. Good Luck.
 

Sharecropper

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Paris KY
In lieu of placing a rubber hose on the peg of the switch we could all learn the real cause of the issue. If it is a throttle cable lets correct that issue. If it is the accelerator pedal lets replace it with the correct one. Putting makeshift repairs and add on parts does not correctly resolve the issue. I see makeshift/half fast repairs on vehicles all the time. I have the correct parts. I put on the correct parts. Reverse engineering. The fact that I have the parts is not the reason I suggest that you replace parts. I can keep the parts and you can add a hose and wonder what the problem is. Send me a PM and I can get you what you need. Let's see the other end of the cable where it attaches to the injection pump. Good Luck.
thats-brilliant-zl0ex4.jpg
 
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