M1009 wont start/no crank

[justinwregier]

Pardon the repost please but my M1009 wont turn over.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/47488-m1009-slow-crank-no-start.html

At first I thought maybe the batteries had finally died. I replaced the old batteries with new and the lights work, turn signals and even the heater fan kicks on to high but the engine will not even turn over now.

In the starting sequence after the battery for power what else can fail?

24v starter? Glow Plugs? Fuel gel?

I live in NW OHIO and I am unsure of repairs and/or any local diesel mechs but I am open to suggestions...

My daily driver will probably need to be towed

Any help is welcome

Thank you

Justin

 

[S&S]

After you turn the key the power then goes to a silenoid. I have no idea where the silenoid is for the M1009, but on most vehicles it will either be on the firewall or built onto the starter.
If you here a "click" when you turn the key then the silenoid is working and the power is not getting to the starter.

edit: I'm pretty sure the silenoid will be on the starter on your truck

 

[Keith_J]

Check for voltage to the starter, both the big terminal and the little one, when it is cranked. You should have voltage to the big terminal all the time.

Does the voltage (both batteries) drop when you attempt to crank? If so, that sounds like a bum starter. Since you had slow cranking, this is probably the case.

Starters are out there. And yours can probably be rebuilt. The 24 volt system is nothing to fear, just the starter and glow plug system run on it, all other loads are 12 volt.

The glow plugs are 12 volt, using ballast resistors to drop the voltage. Because of this, all glow plugs should be replaced if one goes out because the remaining have been exposed to 12.5% greater voltage.

 

[justinwregier]

Thanks guys... the replies help me alot. I live in an apartment now. I cant tear apart my M1009 so the mental puzzle before I tow it gives me a chance to spend appropriately.

The silenoid "click" is present while the wait light is on. Just no cranking with key turn.

The volt meter has gone from yellow to green in the past but now just stays yellow during starting.

I would suspect the starter at this point which is a solid purchase part to replace anyway on this old of a vehicle, glow plugs too...

Next then would be finding a starter or rebuild mech near by Napoleon OHIO. Anyone know a guy? Further suggestions towards resolution are still welcome too!

 

[Keith_J]

Well, in Ohio without a garage, you would be best served by any reputable GM mechanic. Not the dealer.

But you should find a replacement starter, online isn't an issue. Either the 27MT (direct drive, heavy) or 28MT (geared, lighter but requires modification to the bracket) are available.

 

[justinwregier]

Is the 27MT starter available at a retail store? Forgive my question but there is an Autozone as well as an Orielly's that I can get too.

Online ordering is there a brand name? AC Delco or another? If I can get a new 27MT that would be great! brand names/part numbers for starter/glow plugs would be like cheat codes for me right now

I have in the past ordered freight and repaired my CUCV using the manuals.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/32376-need-m1009-rear-end.html
If I can get the part I would try, probably with a lot of posts on here, to do the work in the parking lot... haha or at least borrow a friends garage.

 

[Keith_J]

NAPA might be able to order one for you. Delco made these starters.

 

[justinwregier]

Napa had this online would this be correct?

pic below

$$$ but if it gets the truck to start worth it

 

[Keith_J]

Yes, that is it! And she is a heavy beast.

Please download the TM for correct install/shimming.

 

[Warthog]

The sequence of starting is:

turn the Key
key cylinder turns a geared cam
cam pushes on the actuator rod
actuator rod pushes on the starter switch on top of the steering column
starter switch energizes the starter relay under the dash - 12v
relay energizes the the solinoid on the starter - 24v

I would check the starter relay under dash. It is know to cause problems. And its cheap to fix.

 

[kipman]

I am in Lancaster OH, you can call me if you need cucv help, 614-440-9039, Kip Thompson.

 

[3dubs]

It is very heavy when you are under the truck holding the starter up. Just remember not to drop it on your hand it really smarts. But changing the starter is something you should be able to do yourself. It would be easier if you had a buddy's driveway but you should be able to do it at your apartment because you are under the truck with the hood down. It would be easier if you lifted the truck. But if you have to just crawl under the truck and do not open the hood. Apartment management should not even notice if you keep your tools and parts hidden in your truck. I replaced a timing belt on a Mustang without management notice and I had the hood up. Good luck!

 

[3dubs]

Read the TM and diconnect the ground before you start.

 

[ODdave]

Check the starter relay behind the dash under where the radio would be, its the metal one, usually mounted upside down so it dose an excellent job of collecting water.

 

[bracebldr]

I f you jump power from large terminal on starter solenoid to small terminal with key on and it starts starter not problem. Ther is a very inexpensive tool for this with two wires and a trigger switch. I go old school and use screwdrier but dont arc to anything else!!! so i reccommend for you the right tool. If you do this and same problem occurs starter is the problem,

 

[Sgt Hulka]

And as I always say. Check the easy stuff first. Connections. From the starter right back through the starting circuit to batteries...

 

[SmokeyDod]

If you have not figured your problem out yet, I believe this is your problem. Look at your picture of the starter & solonoid. You have the green wire connected to wrong terminal. It should be connected to the 'S' terminal (one closest to engine oil pan). Change this & it should work if your batteries are connected up correctly. If you are not sure, maybe this will help. According to the military the correct sequence to connect the batteries are as follows:
On your firewall, the top long terminal are the + pos connections.
Underneath those w/shorter terminal are the - neg connections.
I call the front batt to be the one closest to the radiator and the back batt. is one next to firewall.
To connect sequence as follows:
1) Connect red "jumper" wire to + pos side of front batt
2) Connect red wire from top + pos terminal to + pos side of back batt
3) Connect other end of red "jumper" wire to - neg side of back batt (see note *)
4) Connect long black - neg wire from the short - neg terminal to the -neg side of front batt. (this will also have a smaller black wire that is grounded attached to it.)
*Note: On the "jumper" wire mentioned #3 also has the long smaller red + wire that goes all way to the small terminal connection block located next to glow plug solonoid.

To disconnect, just reverse sequence. (I never paid any attention to which order I attached my batteries until I got a M1009 with this ssequence stenciled underneath hood.)

Hope this helps. I WOULD NOT BUY A STARTER UNTIL YOU CHECK OUT YOUR CONNECTION ON YOUR STARTER SOLONOID AND HOW YOU HAVE BATTERIES HOOKED UP.

 

[beanman1]

hey man i had the same problem turned out to be the starter
the starter has a lot of torque and eventually the two long bolts that hold the starter together twisted causing the starter to ground out which leads to slow turning over or starter death

 

[beanman1]

ok forgeot to say that the resitors go bad over time (old age) sendind 24v to the glow plugs..... to much power to them will kill them really really fast i bypassed the resistors by taking 8g wire from the front battery pos (the one in the front of the truck) to the glow plug relay on the firewall next to the brake mastr cylinder i recomend doing that so u will have no glow plug blow outs but make sure all your glow plugs r good before u do

 

[badassissimo]

M1009 alternator missing

I am going to keep track of this thread because I bought my m1009 last week and drove it around the parking lot fine. The dealer turned the key for the wait light, tried to crank, then tried again to get it going. This truck is missing an alternator. I knew that going out there and got the deal on account of it. I have been looking for an alternator, bolts, and new pulleys to get it in shape. In the meantime, I towed it 300 miles back to home and couldn't get it going. It has the same problem described above in terms of the clicking when the light is on. The light doesn't go off or at least I don't let it click more than 15 seconds because I don't know that the clicking is good or bad. I think the headlights are out because nothing comes on anywhere. I'm just kind of diagnosing as I go. I figured I'd get serious when I find an alternator. Does anyone know where I could find an alternator for this truck if I need two? I'm not sure what amps are required or if it is recommended to keep the 24volts over the 12 volts. I found one on ebay but the dealer doesn't know if it fits. I'm assuming that the ones at oreillys and advance auto parts for the 6.2l diesel are good fits. Either one is fine with me. I couldn't find anything at a junkyard for 70 miles. Please let me know if the one at Oreillys will bolt on fine. I'll get the bolts and pulleys at the same time.

Sorry if I posted under the wrong thread, it just seemed so similar that I didn't want to start a new thread and be called out for it. Thank you for any help.