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M1010 A/C Compressor

m38inmaine

Well-known member
2,090
46
48
Location
Maine USA
Did anyone find a source for these? The diode inside is fried causing pass through voltage energizing the compressor pulley all the time even with the a/c off. The actual relay itself looks fine.
 

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Keith_J

Well-known member
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Schertz TX
Yes, that diode is FRIED. It is a snubber, meant to prevent arcing when the relay breaks contact since this relay is driving a coil which can store energy, releasing it when the circuit breaks.

After looking over it, any 1 amp power diode will work although I would start at 100 volt so any between a 1N4002 to 1N4004 should work. Look up Allied Electronics if you don't have a local source. Talk to your local ham radio experts.

If it again blows, higher current diode in the 1N5401 to 1N5404 would work. These are 3 amp diodes, the 1N4xxx are 1 amp. There is a 50 microhenry choke supplying this relay so I'm pretty certain the 1 amp diodes will work.

Don't delete this picture since I believe the cathode band is still visible. This is IMPORTANT, install the diode wrong and it will burn out.
 

nun101

New member
9
0
0
Location
Cleveland, OH
I'm attempting to repair my relay right now.

Mine isn't as fried and I can see the diode part number is 1N6421. Hope this helps someone. (actually a transient voltage suppressor)

EDIT: After talking with a tech at digi-key electronics, I was advised to use part# F5644CT-ND to replace this transient voltage suppressor that is no longer available. Will update once I install it.
 

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cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I may be able to help. I have a few that still have them panels under there. I will look in about an hour when I get out of traffic. I will take some pictures. No promises.
 

nun101

New member
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0
Location
Cleveland, OH
Yours probably have same issue I'm guessing. Should be simple repair though. Maybe you could refurbish them and sell on eBay? I will let you know if replacement part works.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
DSCF2668.jpgDSCF2665.jpgDSCF2666.jpgDSCF2667.jpgThere you have it. I entered the compartment and removed the relay. I also found a nice assortment of starter relays. What do I need to look at to see if it is still good. Test procedure?
 

nun101

New member
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0
Location
Cleveland, OH
Should not have continuity between the outside pins. If no continuity, use diode setting on multimeter on same pins. Should be a affirmative in one direction, negative in other.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I am no electrician. I am in the house for the evening. The best thing I have is a Fluke multi meter. It is out in my garage. I know how to check voltage and ohm things. That's about it. I use a test light and a power probe when I work on my vehicles. I don't even know what a diode setting is. Should I disassemble this relay and look inside? Sorry. I make out fine with the knowledge I have. When it exceeds my know how. I get out my wallet or call a friend.
 

nun101

New member
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0
0
Location
Cleveland, OH
Start by testing for resistance between the pins. If close to zero you can stop. Diode test setting will have a triangle and a line with another line through it. On mine it's next to resistance (ohm) setting.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,352
9,959
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Looking I think you need to come load an entire M1010 body and use the interior to repair or replace the interior of yours. But I will look and get you what you need and price it. I have 4 M1010 bodies in my field. .
 
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