M1010 spare tire location

[chevymike]

Definitely interested to see the pics. I would love to be able to put my spare in the stock location too, on my M1010. Running 255/85-16 Toyos and really didn't want to have to make a rear swing out rack for a spare.

 

[tbearatkin]

okay, so I got the spare today and went to see how it would fit, two things, it appears it will fit, to be clear I am running the cooper discoverer s/t maxx 255/85/16. The problems I ran into are these; the hanger studs are not long enough. Also the big receiver that the fire department put in attaches to the frame in such a way that I can not remove said studs. My plan is to get some couplers (looks like 1/2x20) and cut the existing ones up a few inches, screw on couplers, thread in some new fine all-thread and dial in the perfect height on the fixed side and then put a few tack welds on things.

-Update- So I got the spare in there and it went well, the passenger side exhaust is about 2 1/2 inches away from the tread and the drivers side is about 3 1/2. I will have to make some minor adjustments and tack welds tomorrow. The details I came across are that it is NOT fine thread but 1/2x13 coarse thread. Easy to find couplers and allthread. I dropped the driver side hanger bolt and cut 1.5" off, added a coupler and some allthread above to tighten to the frame. cut 1.5" off of the passenger side bolt and added coupler and some allthread. Got it installed but would like it a touch more snug than it is now. I would say the optimal cuts would be around 2" off of each if using couplers. If just welding allthread to existing then it may be easier but I like the couplers for whatever reason. Will put up some pics when I wrap it up tomorrow or the next day or so.

Just a quick observation. If you were to flip the tire over is it possible the studs will be long enough? Or is it deeper on that side?

 

[cruzer747]

Just a quick observation. If you were to flip the tire over is it possible the studs will be long enough? Or is it deeper on that side?

No, the clamping pressure is from the frame through the rubber to the bottom plate. The tire carrier in the middle has two plates that help keep the rim centered on the bar.

Here are some pics that show where things were added. Still need to tighten it up, tack weld and throw a lock on it but it is fine for plunking around town.
here is the passenger side. For this size tire cutting 2" off of each threaded portion would be ideal before adding coupler (making sure to center old and new threads in coupler til they touch
This shows how close it is to the frame. Pretty close, would not be able to fit much bigger and due to decreased clearance wouldnt want to fit much fatter either.
Here is driver side again for this width tire 2" would be optimal removal on threads before adding coupler. Coupler is used as the adjusting stop to achieve proper tension on things and nut above frame locks it in place.
Since this is a 33 I would say a 34 or 35 may be able to fit but I would keep it skinny. Oh and to do anything larger than 33 it appears you would need to bend the hanger bolts to a bow to accomodate the additional size. The bolts were pretty much touching my tire.

Good luck and have fun lifting your tires up there! It's..."fun"

 

[chevymike]

Nicely done. Gives me hope.

The comment about "have fun lifting" is the one concern I was thinking about. I was thinking about if there was a way to use one of the newer truck crank up systems to raise it into place and then use the stock bar to actually tighten and hold it in place. Sure would save a lot of work getting it up into place.

 

[cruzer747]

I was thinking about if there was a way to use one of the newer truck crank up systems to raise it into place and then use the stock bar to actually tighten and hold it in place. Sure would save a lot of work getting it up into place.

I am sure anything is possible but it went well enough with a floor jack under the outside of the support bar. I do not want to carry a floor jack with me so in the event of a flat getting it down is easier and the flat will then go in the truck so no need to lift it back in if I am not feeling it. Good luck I am sure it will go well for yours.

 

[chevymike]

Definitely something I am going to look into. With the eventual build out of the back for camping, if I am on a multi day trip and have a flat, I sure don't want to put the old tire into the back. Outside of bouncing around, it would suck to have to unload and load it every time we are using the back. I'll definitely document whatever I end up doing.

 

[cruzer747]

It is very doable, just not fun. If you were on level ground and dont mind getting on your back and dragging it around under there... then once it is "jawed" in the open support you could just rig up a lever/fulcrum under the outside of the support using your jack or whatever as the lever. I took measurements and shared them so no one else has to do it three times in a row like I did! You will get the practice you need when you do the hanger extension.

 

[CSaR2010]

What about a small bottle jack? Position and lift. I have a free one I can send someone to experiment with.

 

[Boats]

Thank you Cruzer747!!!

 

[cruzer747]

What about a small bottle jack? Position and lift. I have a free one I can send someone to experiment with.

Thankyou for the offer but for me I am good as is, I am just about to go and make the final adjustments and I am almost positive using my hilift as a lever I will be able to get the plate high enough to make it onto the threads enough to get the tightening nut started. I am not the biggest guy coming in around #140 so I think it is a non issue. I would be interested to see how easy it is to add a stock style lifting setup.... but as seldom as I SHOULD need to do this in an away from shop/home setting I am just fine with a little lifting... will help vent the fumes I will likely have after flattening one of these $300 tires (after mount and balance...)

 

[CSaR2010]

The stock style on some of those trucks was the same set up. The main problems (coming from a conversion and body shop background) would be the hole for the crank. The lift crossmember (usually riveted in) and the rod itself.

I've got to go to the junkyard and they've got different year old K trucks. Can you get me the frame height centerline to the tire and the width? I can see if any year domestics will fit. It may hang down a little though.

 

[chevymike]

Just Google Spare Tire Winch and there are tons of them you can buy new, if you don't want to scrounge junkyards.

 

[cruzer747]

I just did it 3 times in the dark and it was raining by the last go.... and then once today after I finished welding things. Its really not that bad. Especially if you leave the nut on and thread it through the plate. Anyways, I may change my mind once I am older but there is a mountain of things higher up on the list for me. Here are some measurements for anyone else putting a similar size tire in for what worked for me.
my perfect opening size on the drivers side was 11" I could squish it about 1/2" tighter if I needed. Above the through hole in the frame are two nuts that keep it at the opening I want and then a nut at the end of the allthread that is welded to prevent an easy or accidental backing out of the long bolt.

this shows the amount I could adjust should I need it. (I am tempted to move the top welded nut to just an inch away from the adjuster nuts. Easy to do later. I will try and loosen things all the way to the welded nut and see if the tire can come loose, if so it needs to be closer.)
Here is the passenger side. This works well and gives me about 1/2-3/4 thread sticking through the bottom of the locking nut when the tire is in.
I measured things and hope this makes it a little easier for others, again note this would change on a different width tire and a taller tire may not work at all... but from the looks of it a 35" MIGHT fit.