M1028 Small Lift Build

[GPrez]

Another thing I like is that you kept the stock rear springs which keeps the overloads.

What color of green you going to do, 383?

Keeping the stock spring capacity was one of my goals and the rear looked a good bit higher than the front. I figured the zero rates with 2" springs in the front would level me out or come close and it did. The bed sets 1" higher in the back than it does at the cab.

I will probably use the Restoration Shop Olive Green Hot Rod Flatz paint. I used this stuff on my M1009 and it came out great.

Great looking truck! I was wondering if you could post a little about your powdercoating, how you did it, where you got the powdercoat. I have done a cpl of fire arms with Gun Kote in the oven but did not know you could do small parts like that. Is there alot of odor? Also, please make sure and post some pics of your headliner when installed, I have been thinking about one of those and would love to see how it looks. I had read someplace you need the civi headliner trim to finish out the install with those.

I just recently got started powdercoating and it is really easy and inexpensive. I actually started doing it for parts on my motorcycle, but it works great on anything metal. I bought the kit on ebay. It is the Eastwood Hotcoat powder coating kit. It came with everything you need except an oven. Paid $175 and it came with 4-different colors of powder with it. It has already more than paid for itself. The powdercoating is the easy part. The prep leading up to it is what takes some time. You will need a blasting cabinet. Anything you want to powdercoat has to be taken down to the bare metal. Applying the powder can be done with nothing more than a dust mask on, and cleanup is easy too. Any powder that goes on the floor just gets swept up, and the gun cleans out with a air gun in about 10-seconds. While curing in the oven the fumes are more harmful and they recommend a respirator when opening the oven door, but still not bad unless your curing in your basement. You do not want to use your oven in your kitchen for this reason. Old ovens are easy to find and very reasonably priced. I picked up a used double oven for free. You can also use a toaster oven if your parts will fit in it.

I will post some pics of the headliner when I get it in. I was on the fence about buying it at first because it is a little pricy for plastic, but I think in the end it will work out for the best. One advantage to it I didn't realize when I bought it though was it has a light built into it. I tapped into the light under the dash that works on the headlight switch so I can turn it on and off with that. I ran all the wiring last night so hopefully I'll get it installed this week.

It comes with a edge molding that goes on the perimeter so I do not believe there is any need for the stock headliner trim. When you order from LMC there are 2 options for the headliner. One for trucks with an existing headliner and one for trucks without the existing headliner. Order the later.

 

[Shrapnel]

I have a tiny lift as well. This is my 1028 with 1" ez-inch up front (same thing as zero-rate) moving the front axle forward 1" and lift 1". The tires are 9.00-16 STA superlugs on stock wheels. Rear is stock.

I trimmed the front of the fenders a little, but the back of the front fenders are untouched. I hit the bumpstops before rubbing with the sway bar off.

 

[andytk5]

Good stuff! Looks great.

Can you post some pics of the small lift you put on your M1009 also unless you have a thread for that as well. I am looking to put 2" TC springs and blocks on mine for a small lift.

 

[GPrez]

Good stuff! Looks great.

Can you post some pics of the small lift you put on your M1009 also unless you have a thread for that as well. I am looking to put 2" TC springs and blocks on mine for a small lift.

I did not do a thread on it, in fact I didn't find this website till after I had done most of it. The M1009 has a ProComp 2-1/2" lift with blocks in the rear. I'll get some pics up for you soon. In fact I need to update this thread with more stuff for my M1028 too.

 

[andytk5]

I did not do a thread on it, in fact I didn't find this website till after I had done most of it. The M1009 has a ProComp 2-1/2" lift with blocks in the rear. I'll get some pics up for you soon. In fact I need to update this thread with more stuff for my M1028 too.

Cool! Look forward to it. Thanks.

 

[Thaidonk99]

You have a link to buy these flip kits cause that is a way better price then anywhere

 

[Thaidonk99]

I have the kit to flip my shackles. Its not an ORD kit, its a kit a local 4x4 store puts together for 65$. Only problem I ran into with stock springs was that the new plate will just barely hit the bump stop bracket. My plan one of these days is to remove the bump stop and move it over 1 or 2"s.

btw i really like the 2" lift.

You have a link to buy these from your local shop?

 

[GPrez]

Long overdue update

It's been a while since I have updated this so here goes. I did a seperate thread on the Gear Vendors overdrive, but it's in and works great.

Since my last update I installed an electric fuel pump, spin on fuel filter, Warn premium hubs, LMC overhead console with radio and speakers, reupholstered the seat, insulate and carpet the floor, tinted sliding rear window, and Bully side steps.

I am really happy with the overhead console. Having the speakers right by your head works really well in these loud trucks. The other nice thing is it comes with a light built into it. I wired it to a toggle switch to turn on and off. I just have to be careful not to accidentally leave it turned on. I painted the console with Colorbond to match the door panels.

Reupholstering the seat was a lot easier than I thought it would be. I considered just a seat cover, but that's like a bandaid and I wanted it to look good. I bought the fitted uphostery from LMC and it came with the hog rings and hog ring pliers. I also bought a reinforcement kit that came with steel rods and padding to firm up a sagging seat. The backrest portion was super easy, and the seat portion was fairly simple too. I did it by myself, but a helper would make it easier.

Other than a very little bit of body work and paint this spring I think I'm done.

 

[scottladdy]

How does that headliner mount up? Screws into the sheet metal?

Thanks

 

[truck1]

Gprez did you get the 4x4 lockout function working on your GV? If so what was the fix?Thanks.

 

[GPrez]

How does that headliner mount up? Screws into the sheet metal?

Thanks

It screws on and has plastic buttons that snap on over the heads to help conceal them. This was another thing that I did do myself, but would have been easier with a second set of hands. I used a ratcheting cargo pole to help hold it in place while I mounted it.

Gprez did you get the 4x4 lockout function working on your GV? If so what was the fix?Thanks.

No, I haven't even looked into it yet.

 

[Scarecrow1]

You did a very good job on the rebuild !!!! I have seen some go hog wild and end up with a old truck that cost more than a new one would and still won't work right. You have done to this truck what Frank Loyd Wright did to homes ...Form and function with an eye pleasing result. You should be proud of the end result just take an old mans advice NEVER SELL IT ...Don't ask me why ...

 

[GPrez]

I finally got around to installing a winch after a lot of procrastinating back and forth about which way to do it. I decided for me the permanent mount was the way to go.

This was not a very difficult way to go provided you have a welder and some steel cutting devices on hand. I used a universal winch mount and notched it to slide into the brush guard and then welded it to the brush guard. I had to cut out one of the cross sections in the brush guard for the winch to fit. I cut some pieces of 3/8" steel scrap I had lying around to the shape of the curved bumper guards and welded those to the bumper guards and the winch mount for
added strength. It appears very strong and stout but putting it to use the first time will be the true test. I can always add additional support if needed, but I don't think I will need to.

 

[llong66]

GPrez, I really like the way you did your winch mount, very nice! You mention in your post about going back and fourth about how to do it and that you chose the permanent route.I am in the same place right now, trying to decide between a permanent mount or one that would let me move to front or rear depending on the situation. I was wondering if you could elaborate on some of the things that helped you go the permanent way?

Thanks much!
Greg

 

[Drock]

Gprez did you get the 4x4 lockout function working on your GV? If so what was the fix?Thanks.

Yeah I'd like to know if and what you did to get this to work. I hooked mine up, tried it out, it worked, but then wouldn't disengage. I had to unplug it to get the gear vendors to work again.

 

[GPrez]

GPrez, I really like the way you did your winch mount, very nice! You mention in your post about going back and fourth about how to do it and that you chose the permanent route.I am in the same place right now, trying to decide between a permanent mount or one that would let me move to front or rear depending on the situation. I was wondering if you could elaborate on some of the things that helped you go the permanent way?

Thanks much!
Greg

The reasons for me were:
1. Much harder for someone to steal
2. Retains the tow hooks
3. Does not stick out off the front of the truck as far
4. Stronger, more solid, and secure mount. To temporary mount to the tow hook brackets you have to leave a certain amount of loosness so you can install and remove the winch. It would seem to me that this method could be noisy bouncing down the road and not be as secure.

 

[GPrez]

Yeah I'd like to know if and what you did to get this to work. I hooked mine up, tried it out, it worked, but then wouldn't disengage. I had to unplug it to get the gear vendors to work again.

I still have not messed with it. The only thing I can try is to attach it to the other wire, but I never tried. I just turn it off whenever I engage the hubs.

 

[Winston Wolf]

I'm about to order all the stuff to do this exact same thing. My truck is in storage down at my farm, so I can't get any measurements right now, I want to get all the parts by next week when I can bring the truck home, and would like to get stuff on order so I'm hoping I can get some help.

What size are the rear U bolts you used? Width, Length, Diameter? (or what is the hole spacing/diameter for the bottom perch?) Same question on the front U bolts. I'm assuming you need the 3" spring zero rate block from ORD?

I didn't take pics of the front spring install, but it's pretty straight forward as is the zero rate install. I bought longer center pins and rear u-bolts so both had to be trimed off once installed.

I sandblasted and powder coated the upper and lower U-bolt brackets while I had it apart. The lower bracket is a bad design and can hold dirt and moisture causing it to rust and degrade. Many choose to reverse the U-bolts and Off Road design has a new part to allow this, but it will not work on the 1-ton trucks unless you lift them I think 4-inches.

 

[Ilikemtb999]

A U bolt flip kit should work just fine on a stock truck FYI. Not sure what the OP was talking about years ago.

 

[Recovry4x4]

A U bolt flip kit should work just fine on a stock truck FYI. Not sure what the OP was talking about years ago.

The top spring plate will hit the bump stop bracket below the frame. You can always torch it off I suppose. The folks that sell these kits warn about it.