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M1031: needs pics of governor actuator linkage

Skinny

Well-known member
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Location
Portsmouth, NH
I am fixing my generator setup on the M1031. My truck came with no linkage between the actuator motor and the little heim joint that attaches to the IP throttle assembly.

I fabbed up a temporary rod to see if the system works. It works well but I noticed that the throttle pedal is no incredible stiff to push on (almost feels like something is going to break) and the actuator limits the throttle movement to about a 1/3 of what it should be.

I'm not sure if the linkage is suppose to be a solid rod or maybe a pushrod that doesn't tug on the actuator when the pedal is pushed during normal driving.

Any help, photos, or someone with a spare rod would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Skinny
 

Skinny

Well-known member
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486
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
Appreciate it

I figure it must be telescoping, no way it could be a solid rod.

I'm stoked that after troubleshooting a ton of misadjusted switches and poor connections, everything is functioning great. Don't know why the government removed the actuator rod to disable the whole system...:cookoo:
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
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Location
Schertz TX
Yes, it telescopes to allow normal throttle movement when the governor isn't running.

Do you have the manuals?
 

Skinny

Well-known member
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83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
Excellent! I have the Barber Coleman tech manual for the governor pieces and the Marathon Electric tech manual for the generator head itself. Is there another one for the PTO drive on the SECM body? Also, anyone have a writeup on doing a single phase 120/240v conversion? I know I have to rewire it to diagram G but would need some guidance when I get up in the panel. I know I have to replace the triple phase 208v plug for a NEMA L14-30 IIRC. Need to do some more reading on that. I never rewired a gen head.

Thanks guys for the help.

Just sayin' it...M1031's are bad a$$:cool:
 
Last edited:

Keith_J

Well-known member
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1,314
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Location
Schertz TX
They are also quite useful. Now if I can get a plasma cutter that runs on 3 phase 208 power for under $1500, mine would be even better. My welder runs fine on it, I just don't feel like spending 3 grand on a hand held plasma.
 

dependable

Well-known member
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Location
Tisbury, Massachusetts
I bought a control board with selector switch and lugs for an old 10kw MEP 018. Have not got around to wiring it in yet. This would keep the 3 phase for the compressor motor and other options. Would welcome input on this.

There is a manual for the PTO. I believe it is on the forum somewhere, maybe in one of the old 1031 threads.

One of the 1031 s I got had the governor, linkage and mounting hardware missing. There is a little aluminum part that attaches to IP, and a modified (by cutting a mounting hole off) cold start solenoid. I
 

Skinny

Well-known member
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486
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
Does that actuator rod have a lot of freeplay between the two pipe and tube dimensions? I made on that has about 0.025" difference in materials and it binds up when you go WOT on the IP. Not a good scenario. I know I can't blame Toyota if this things sticks open on the highway :)
 

b4thundr

Member
391
8
18
Location
LaFayette, NY
i found that mine bound if the parts were not lined up well, after the injection pump rebuild when i went to put the parts back on they bound. so i had to play with the brackets n such to get it just right. hope this helps!
 

Skinny

Well-known member
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486
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
I wish I would have known that earlier, I just ordered some fab parts from McMaster Carr. I made a temporary one to verify operation and it works great.

Thanks for the offer!
 

rednckii

Member
225
0
16
Location
Gulfport, ms
Anyone know of a place to get these rods and pictures of attachment brackets. Just got a throttle governor now trying to get the other pieces together thanks.
 

Skinny

Well-known member
2,130
486
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
I could have swore I posted my part numbers for building it but I bought two small heim joints from McMaster Carr for each end. Then I got two pieces of tube of differrent size. I bought bronze inserts so the two pieces can slide into each other. I welded nuts on each end so the Heims thread into them. Then I cut the inner tube to the proper length so that the actuator when fully closed allows for full throttle movement. Sounds way more complicated then it really is. I can take a pic of mine if you need it. I think no more than 2 hours fab time. Took way longer to figure out what size parts I needed.
 
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