• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

M1031 question

panzerwillie

Active member
977
136
43
Location
miami florida
This not just to the M1031 guys as all Chevy CUCV should be the same, so i have had this M1031 for about 2 years is fully loaded with tools that i use on Sundays to do maintenance on some MV's , its all factory except new batteries still 24/12 Volt system , so driving home today as i was getting near HQ it started raining hard so i had the lights on and wipers 2 blocks from home i turn the blower motor as it was getting a little foggy so the GEN light on the left flash on and it stop running , the only thing i had was head lights lucky me i roll in to my drive way, flick key back of and on nothing all dead, waited few minutes for the rain to get lite, check all fuses , everything was good work key back and forward nothing , only thing i had was head lights, check where i believe the vehicle gets 12 volts and it had over 13 volts pull all fuses out with key on nothing wiggle the wires on fuses box nothing check all fusible links for any sign of heat but all was normal, check for 24 volts all good could not find anything wrong , so when back in the cab and turn the key all back on fire right up and drove in to the garage try to duplicate the load but would not do anything , check both 24 and 12 v and it all was good. go figure that its like it pot a a breaker and when it cool down is back on , any info on this would be a great help........
willie
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,246
1,179
113
Location
NY
That is one long run-on sentence!

I know this has been covered before, but right now I do not recall the correct answer or search-terms.
 

panzerwillie

Active member
977
136
43
Location
miami florida
Believe i search could not come up with anything like mine, i know this vehicles in and out so maybe ignition box on the steering column i was going to check that next but it all starter working....
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,246
1,179
113
Location
NY
I think it's something to do with the fan switch and where power comes from.

Warthog will probably get this one.
 

panzerwillie

Active member
977
136
43
Location
miami florida
Ok thank you, but like to understand how it made everything go dead and stay dead for at least 10 minutes like if the battery was unplug, there most be a reason..
 

SCSG-G4

PSVB 3003
Steel Soldiers Supporter
5,368
3,379
113
Location
Lexington, South Carolina
Could there be a thermal overload that the fan switch 'activated' by pulling too much current. Once it cooled down, it 'reset'. I once had a truck that died when driven through standing water. Moisture was getting into the distributor cap and shorting it out. After 15 minutes or so the heat from the engine would dry it out and it would revive on it's own. Sounds like something similar is happening to you.
 

panzerwillie

Active member
977
136
43
Location
miami florida
thank you for the answers, will look at it today, will try to go see how the key switch gets its power from because as i mention the key was dead..
 

m38inmaine

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,118
67
48
Location
Maine USA
The 12v fusible link can be bad and still show 12v, but as soon as a load is applied it will fail. There is just enough of a connection to show voltage but it won't carry any current. It may have been able to carry enough current after it cooled off. I would replace the main 12v link.
 

panzerwillie

Active member
977
136
43
Location
miami florida
Yes i found the fusible 12v wire is a thin gauge for all the work it does even do i could not find my manuals, will replace and go from there thank you...
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
3,657
1,323
113
Location
Schertz TX
Check the upper right hand fuse, especially the spring clips. They can get weak, causing heating and oxidation. Fuses have tin plated lugs, the spring clips are brass. The copper oxide can become an insulator.

Yes, you can restore tension. Fuses should be difficult to remove with bare fingers.
 

panzerwillie

Active member
977
136
43
Location
miami florida
Its all working good now but i am sure it will happen again , i have a back up plan in effect but may be a few days before is in place, now can i replace the fusible link with a fuse i guess just need to figure out AMPS,
will read that post now Kenny thank you
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,012
1,808
113
Location
GA Mountains
The fuses may not be able to handle the current rush quite like the fusible links. I looked into using fuses or breakers in place of the links and everywhere I turned I was warned away from it. I should have gotten the part number for that link wire at NAPA.
 

panzerwillie

Active member
977
136
43
Location
miami florida
Ok i read all the thread on your melt down, will investigate on the fuse links and just put my back up plan in effect before weekend, glad i got a disconnect switch on the battery in case of a melt down..
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,246
1,179
113
Location
NY
You would need 2 disconnect switches.
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,246
1,179
113
Location
NY
You'd need 2 switches, one on each negative terminal.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks