Ronmar
Well-known member
- 3,846
- 7,475
- 113
- Location
- Port angeles wa
Or enhance it
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
M1078A1 cab and chassis electrical upgrades including AC
- Thread starter hike
- Start date
- 835
- 1,519
- 93
- Location
- Mesa Colorado
Maybe if they were just taped, but that gel is a natural dampener. Obviously the wire can carry those vibrations from the engine but Idk. That'd be a fun test to do on a bench, see what frequencies that gel is absorbingOr enhance it
- 531
- 838
- 93
- Location
- Texas Hill Country
You all are way ahead of us. We didn't use the the canon connections; we used the eyelets with 2 flat washers with a lock washer in the gel and plastic. In modding like this everything we do is a lab test—
Last edited:
- 2,034
- 5,224
- 113
- Location
- Portland, OR
I was taught to do peckerhead connections with bolt/nut/lockwashers and cambric tape, splicing tape, and finish with electrical tape. Never had one rub through or come loose 
- 835
- 1,519
- 93
- Location
- Mesa Colorado
I think the point is debating/addressing the possibility of a "non-tight" connection, leading to the Vdrop at high amperage's we talked about earlier elsewhere, not that these connections can come completely apart. For controls, it's irrelevant. But for power connections, the force exerted on the sandwiched lugs is known to be directly proportional to lo connection resistance. (Material surfaces) It's common in industrial power systems to "torque" the power terminations to specs since the material needs to be pressed together continuously to get low resistance (those spring washers on the manual disconnect terminals do this). Much like structurally bolted steel, there needs to be constant tension on the bolt. Without that, you get poor resistance and hot connections showing up on thermal images
So, if vibration can cause the bolt/nut to loosen where there is no longer any tension but still not come apart (bc of locknut and tape), you still have a weak connection. From a QA perspective, removing the lbcd studded connection "changed something". So maybe the vibrations changed too?. It's not something that can be eyeballed however. be nice to know what a test bench says, or at least what an acoustics book might say on the topic. Luckily I have one!
vibration analysis/monitoring of bearings in operation was a big thing at the rad labs, mainly for ventilation fan certainty. I wish I had that setup to attached to this truck to see where all the noises are coming from lol.
So, if vibration can cause the bolt/nut to loosen where there is no longer any tension but still not come apart (bc of locknut and tape), you still have a weak connection. From a QA perspective, removing the lbcd studded connection "changed something". So maybe the vibrations changed too?. It's not something that can be eyeballed however. be nice to know what a test bench says, or at least what an acoustics book might say on the topic. Luckily I have one!
vibration analysis/monitoring of bearings in operation was a big thing at the rad labs, mainly for ventilation fan certainty. I wish I had that setup to attached to this truck to see where all the noises are coming from lol.
Last edited:
- 531
- 838
- 93
- Location
- Texas Hill Country
We have a few miles on her since pulling out the LBCD and disconnect relays. Everything seems to work except the Inlet Air Heater (IAH). At start up the dash light cycles on and I can hear the solenoid cycle off along with the dash light. Though once started the IAH does not cycle back on. Temperatures are not all that cold right now: 58ºF this morning.
Not sure of the protocol the system uses to fire the IAH, though she is idling rough until she warms up. Rough idling is a new issue. Does anyone know the IAH parameters for cycling on and off?
Rough idling video
Watching the gauges the inlet air starts out warmer than ambient, drops within a degree or two of ambient, before warming slowly as the engine and transmission warm up. Just as expected.
Once all warm she runs smooth and clean–
Not sure of the protocol the system uses to fire the IAH, though she is idling rough until she warms up. Rough idling is a new issue. Does anyone know the IAH parameters for cycling on and off?
Rough idling video
Watching the gauges the inlet air starts out warmer than ambient, drops within a degree or two of ambient, before warming slowly as the engine and transmission warm up. Just as expected.
Once all warm she runs smooth and clean–
Last edited:
- 2,034
- 5,224
- 113
- Location
- Portland, OR
Sounds like a fueling issue to me.
- 531
- 838
- 93
- Location
- Texas Hill Country
I picked up primary and secondary yesterday. I'll drop those in today and see if that works—
- 2,034
- 5,224
- 113
- Location
- Portland, OR
Have you replaced all your fuel lines yet? They will be rotten and could be sucking air.
Ronmar
Well-known member
- 3,846
- 7,475
- 113
- Location
- Port angeles wa
What does the primer feel like? Try it before you start next time. It should be firm in a press or two…
- 835
- 1,519
- 93
- Location
- Mesa Colorado
Do you recommend the push lok stuff shown in the parts spreadsheet in the forum?
- 2,034
- 5,224
- 113
- Location
- Portland, OR
I had the factory hoses copied by a local hose shop. Push-lok fittings work fine also. They are perfectly adequate for the pressures involved. Obviously the hose needs to handle diesel.
- 531
- 838
- 93
- Location
- Texas Hill Country
Yes, all new fuel lines. Hand pump stays hard. I recently ran the tank low, hopefully just picked up some silt from it. I should likely drain the tank and clean it out—
- 2,034
- 5,224
- 113
- Location
- Portland, OR
Hhhmmm - pop into CAT ET and see what your injection oil pressure is doing. Assuming that's good I would check the lift pump fuel pressure.
coachgeo
Well-known member
- 5,147
- 3,462
- 113
- Location
- North of Cincy OH
far as I know..... most everything on the yellow spread sheet only gets put there "after "reports of someone successfully using it.
- 2,034
- 5,224
- 113
- Location
- Portland, OR
The reference to a "fuel shutoff solenoid" makes me think that was all 3116 stuff. And the 3126/C7 have different fuel systems so may or may not be applicable. Electronic engines don't have shutoff solenoids. They just cut power to the injectors when the computer loses the ignition power signal.
coachgeo
Well-known member
- 5,147
- 3,462
- 113
- Location
- North of Cincy OH
Thanks for info. Aren't fuel lines and fittings same though, even if other items listed are likely 3116?
- 2,034
- 5,224
- 113
- Location
- Portland, OR
3116 is a mechanical injection pump with the lift pump on the back of the head. 3126b and C7 have HEUI injection pumps with the lift pump driven off the back of the HEUI pump so the lines are going to be totally different length, etc. Not sure about fitting sizes but there's also a difference in engine displacement, and fuel pressure since the HEUI engines don't operate with high pressure fuel from an injection pump - they use high pressure oil instead.
So I wouldn't assume any of that is correct for an electronic engine. Measure everything before you order part numbers off a random internet spreadsheet.
- 531
- 838
- 93
- Location
- Texas Hill Country
Well, this morning similar temperatures, new primary and secondary she fired right up smooth.
After swapping filters video
Hopefully we won't follow behind @ckouba too quickly. Though our rough idle had a different pattern and feel from his from watching his video.
Still back to this thread, pretty sure it has nothing to do with pulling the LBCD and disconnect relays.
We have diagnostic eqiupment though not the CAT ET software as yet. We have the dearborn dowload? and Dana/Spicer CTIS download—
- 2,034
- 5,224
- 113
- Location
- Portland, OR
Naw you need CAT ET to perform the injection pressure tests, etc. The generic scan tools and software generally don't understand the HEUI system and special tests you can run.