M1078A1 cab and chassis electrical upgrades including AC

[hike]

It's a red herring bc now the AHJ's only care about "how" I apply digital stamps, not the actual content of the drawing.

In the construction industry, especially Public Works projects, engineers have become much more lawyerly over the years. No one really looks at the shop drawings until the pipe fitter points out why it won't work—

 

[hike]

I remember. I'll take this and draw it up in standard electrical fashion. You'll have to review/edit prior to permit submission .

Looking at Post 19 the actual layout is more like this:



It is getting messy. It definitely needs to be redone, and I like your way best. You are welcome to do it, though I can import the schematics and edit them, too. I'd likely use GIMP or Inkscape. What software do you use?

 

[MatthewWBailey]

Looking at Post 19 the actual layout is more like this:

View attachment 929892

It is getting messy. It definitely needs to be redone, and I like your way best. You are welcome to do it, though I can import the schematics and edit them, too. I'd likely use GIMP or Inkscape. What software do you use?

Autocad for drafting line diagrams, elevations, plan views. It's the standard thing since Moses

 

[MatthewWBailey]

Looking at Post 19 the actual layout is more like this:

View attachment 929892

It is getting messy. It definitely needs to be redone, and I like your way best. You are welcome to do it, though I can import the schematics and edit them, too. I'd likely use GIMP or Inkscape. What software do you use?

We call that a point-to-point diagram which can get messy. We only use it for individual device in/out wiring details, so you can identify # of wires per device etc etc. the back of the TM has a bunch of point-to-point details on wiring terminals and cable assemblies. The Fmtv electrical schematics, 20 sheets, are drawn like "ladder diagrams" which are more organized into a system. These are better. Usually control schematics have 3 main types, p-to-p, ladder, and a topology. (Add a single line diagram for AC power, which is essentially a topology.). Your design needs a topology, which highlights the basic theory of operation and identifies major components for easy navigating/troubleshooting.

 

[Ronmar]

In the construction industry, especially Public Works projects, engineers have become much more lawyerly over the years. No one really looks at the shop drawings until the pipe fitter points out why it won't work—

Oh yea, wether it is right or not in the end is your buisness, but it won’t ever get to that stage if the Is are not dotted and the Ts crossed.

had an approved set of house plans in hand that I brought back to the engineer for “recommendations” because his end wall roof brace design wasn’t to code… Boy was he embarrassed At least I caught it before the inspector ever saw it…

 

[hike]

We call that a point-to-point diagram which can get messy. We only use it for individual device in/out wiring details, so you can identify # of wires per device etc etc. the back of the TM has a bunch of point-to-point details on wiring terminals and cable assemblies. The Fmtv electrical schematics, 20 sheets, are drawn like "ladder diagrams" which are more organized into a system. These are better. Usually control schematics have 3 main types, p-to-p, ladder, and a topology. (Add a single line diagram for AC power, which is essentially a topology.). Your design needs a topology, which highlights the basic theory of operation and identifies major components for easy navigating/troubleshooting.

I appreciate the help—

 

[MatthewWBailey]

In the construction industry, especially Public Works projects, engineers have become much more lawyerly over the years. No one really looks at the shop drawings until the pipe fitter points out why it won't work—

Yeah it's all about insurance and liability. I carry insurance so clients know they can sue me. The bureaucratic part has eclipsed the value/end-use-importance of the building/infrastructure. Lawyers have taken over this country with "statutory requirements" in every state. I used to just be an automation "design/build" guy in the private sector. Then on 1 public works job, a state agency said I was breaking the law by preforming "engineering" wo a license. So I got the license. Bureaucracy is just a way to mandate the funding for bureaucracy. I deal with it everyday.

 

[hike]

Got the ceiling covered in Dynamat Xtreme, except one "test" spot. Though hot I can hold my hand on the Dynamat, the test spot is hotter. Difficult to keep my hand there long.



At 5:30pm CDT
Ambient outside 97°
Air in the closed up parked cab — 106°
Surface of the Dynamat Xtreme ceiling — 110°
Surface of interior bare ceiling — 129°

Not comfortable, but not bad for a closed up parked cab.

We have a box of Dynamat Core (fiber blanket) and another mega pack of Xtreme. Thinking of adding a second layer of Core on the ceiling and using the Xtreme on the door, side and rear panels/wall. Planning to install Xtreme directly to back wall, though the doors and rear panel areas are tough. What about mounting to the panels and covering with carpet? Has anyone tried that?

Also, @GeneralDisorder has me wondering if Lizard Skin would be a good addition to the exposed interior area to be painted? What kind of surface does Lizard Skin present? Could it be used in place of a primer layer and painted over with the finish?

 

[GeneralDisorder]

@GeneralDisorder has me wondering if Lizard Skin would be a good addition to the exposed interior area to be painted? What kind of surface does Lizard Skin present? Could it be used in place of a primer layer and painted over with the finish?

Lizard Skin is AMAZING. It has a matt textured appearance. It can be painted. It dropped the inside skin temps in my M1079 box by 20+ degrees.

It's quite the engineered coating. It's used by the Navy, and by many integrators - used on the engine dog houses on fire trucks. Unlike Dynamat and other "consumer" solutions - "Lizard Skin" is just a consumer facing brand name that was spun off by Mascoat. It's made in the US:

LizardSkin

Automotive Heat and Sound Damping

lizardskin.com

Mascoat | Home

For over 25 years, Mascoat industry leading experts have combined technology, application history, and extensive testing to provide the best coatings available for thermal insulation, condensation protection and sound control. We serve a wide variety of industries with coatings designed for...

mascoat.com

 

[hike]

Lizard Skin is AMAZING. It has a matt textured appearance. It can be painted. It dropped the inside skin temps in my M1079 box by 20+ degrees.

That looks really cool. Watched a couple videos and read the FAQ's.

Thinking about using the ceramic (thermal) coat on the exterior of our planned 'white' roof as an undercoat.

Thank you!

 

[Ronmar]

Got the ceiling covered in Dynamat Xtreme, except one "test" spot. Though hot I can hold my hand on the Dynamat, the test spot is hotter. Difficult to keep my hand there long.

View attachment 929915

At 5:30pm CDT
Ambient outside 97°
Air in the closed up parked cab — 106°
Surface of the Dynamat Xtreme ceiling — 110°
Surface of interior bare ceiling — 129°

Not comfortable, but not bad for a closed up parked cab.

We have a box of Dynamat Core (fiber blanket) and another mega pack of Xtreme. Thinking of adding a second layer of Core on the ceiling and using the Xtreme on the door, side and rear panels/wall. Planning to install Xtreme directly to back wall, though the doors and rear panel areas are tough. What about mounting to the panels and covering with carpet? Has anyone tried that?

Also, @GeneralDisorder has me wondering if Lizard Skin would be a good addition to the exposed interior area to be painted? What kind of surface does Lizard Skin present? Could it be used in place of a primer layer and painted over with the finish?

so how did that A/C perform under those conditions?

 

[hike]

so how did that A/C perform under those conditions?

All we have done with the AC so far is the bench test. Most of the insulation is in place now on the ceiling and rear wall. Need to finish the AC installation.

While the cab is stripped out we are going to paint some trim and all the bits we pulled out of the dash; build out and carpet the rear area floor storage and rear wall electrical (accessory) cabinet panels; build out and carpet the ceiling panels with map lights and such; install power windows and locks; insulate and carpet the door and rear side panels; build out the central console and storage.

If I can keep my paying work load light hoping to be putting everything back together by the end of the month? We'll see which month =)

I too am very anxious to see how this unit performs in the wild—

 

[aw113sgte]

Got the ceiling covered in Dynamat Xtreme, except one "test" spot. Though hot I can hold my hand on the Dynamat, the test spot is hotter. Difficult to keep my hand there long.

View attachment 929915

At 5:30pm CDT
Ambient outside 97°
Air in the closed up parked cab — 106°
Surface of the Dynamat Xtreme ceiling — 110°
Surface of interior bare ceiling — 129°

Not comfortable, but not bad for a closed up parked cab.

We have a box of Dynamat Core (fiber blanket) and another mega pack of Xtreme. Thinking of adding a second layer of Core on the ceiling and using the Xtreme on the door, side and rear panels/wall. Planning to install Xtreme directly to back wall, though the doors and rear panel areas are tough. What about mounting to the panels and covering with carpet? Has anyone tried that?

Also, @GeneralDisorder has me wondering if Lizard Skin would be a good addition to the exposed interior area to be painted? What kind of surface does Lizard Skin present? Could it be used in place of a primer layer and painted over with the finish?

Regardless of the level of insulation, given enough time anything can get extremely hot. The more insulation the longer the process takes.
I have a 9kbtu mini split and it easily(less than 20% duty cycle) keeps the 20ft shipping container comfy during 90 degree temps in full sun.

 

[hike]

Regardless of the level of insulation, given enough time anything can get extremely hot. The more insulation the longer the process takes.
I have a 9kbtu mini split and it easily(less than 20% duty cycle) keeps the 20ft shipping container comfy during 90 degree temps in full sun.

Right. Insulation adds resistance to conducive heat exchange. Your experience is encouraging.

As I recall your metal box is also painted a light color in a satin or gloss finish. Once we paint the roof bright white and perhaps improve the reflectivity with a satin or glossy finish less radiant energy should transfer to the metal, allowing less conductive energy to pass to the interior insulation.

We will be adding a light colored roof rack above as well mainly to catch sun before it reaches the roof, cast some shade and hopefully radiate most that heat away from the roof—

 

[hike]

Slowly progressing. Painted the interior doors two tone: taupe and white.





Hoping to start going back together next week—

 

[Aviator4x4]

Man, this is a great build. Super informative