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M1078A1 "Pandora" Build | 2024-??? | ***Picture Heavy***

Aviator4x4

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While I'm waiting on parts from Allison, I figured I would tackle the corner bolt issue which was so, so much worse than I thought it was haha. When I removed this shorter, yellow zinc coated bolt... A section of aluminum threads came out with it.

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As seen here, with an original transmission bolt which is ~5-10mm longer. Some eagle eyed members might also notice another issue...

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The bolt in the trans that ripped the threads out is actually an SAE bolt cranked in to an M10x1.5 hole.

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In addition to some higher up threads being broken, the lower threads were all buggered up:
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After some internet research, I bought this M10x1.5 Helicoil kit, the shortest 13/32 bit I could find, and the shortest 90* adapter I could find. The 90* adapter was for "impact" but there wasn't much slop so I figured I'd give it a try. Ended up working.

20241230_152926 export.jpg

The tap and installation tool were too long so I 3d printed some softjaws, cut them down, and squared the ends to fit snugly in a ratcheting box wrench:
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I haven't used too many helicoils before, but seemed to go more or less according to plan. Trying to figure out the best plan for helping those gouges and scrape marks seal... he worst ones are perhaps 1/32" deep or less than 1mm. I think there are two of them, from where someone pried on the aluminum trans block to separate rather than using the jacking ports. Thinking of adding a small amount of RTV on both sides of a new gasket from Allison. Thoughts ? Other recommendations ?
 

aw113sgte

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Damn, sorry you had an idiot shove the wrong thing in the wrong hole. Nice work on the fix though!
I would use a little rtv, very little. A little loose piece of rtv can cause all sorts of issues in a trans with all the moving control bits.
 

Aviator4x4

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Damn, sorry you had an idiot shove the wrong thing in the wrong hole. Nice work on the fix though!
I would use a little rtv, very little. A little loose piece of rtv can cause all sorts of issues in a trans with all the moving control bits.
Haha yeah... the seemingly endless rabbit hole of transmission problems with this truck strikes again. Discouraging but I just keep holding on to the vision of what I want to build the truck in to. Hopefully I can achieve it with a lot of luck, little bit of skill, and no experience :LOL:

I'm thinking of wetting a fine diamond hone and using that on the gouges to make them flush with the surface, and then putting ~1/16" bead of ultra grey on the trans block gouges. Wait 24+hrs before filling the trans, for sure. After disassembling the entire valve body/control valves, it's not terrible... but I'd also like to not do it again.
 

Aviator4x4

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Feeling better about my hypothesis of where the water came from. It rained here yesterday and I could see a waterline/drop on this dry rotted filler seal:

1735614710394.png

Really hope that is the cause. I can't see any other plausible points of ingress; the breather cap on the top of the trans is in good shape, but I'm going to 3d print a little umbrella for it anyway.
 

GeneralDisorder

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You can use JB weld to fill the gouges and sand them down. I've even done that on head gasket fire ring mating surfaces on engines. Customer was fully aware of the risk and "only" wanted another year out of it. That was about 7 years ago and it's still running.
 

Aviator4x4

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You can use JB weld to fill the gouges and sand them down. I've even done that on head gasket fire ring mating surfaces on engines. Customer was fully aware of the risk and "only" wanted another year out of it. That was about 7 years ago and it's still running.
Interesting idea. I think I might !

Did you use regular JB weld Cold weld or something more exotic ?
 
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