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M1088 camper conversion

ckouba

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That was my way of saying a place to connect "city" water- water already under pressure so I won't need to run a pump if I want to run the water. It amounts to a spigot tapped into the pressure side of the house system with a flow check device to prevent backfill into the tank and out the tank's vent line. I believe the pump has backflow prevention, or I will have a stand alone device.

Chris
 

chucky

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That could be a dicey move unless you have some way to only let in a certain amount of pressure of water with so much different pressures from 1 water district to another and i wouldnt want my whole system being under a 100 psi round the clock for no reason ! Maybe plumb the tank with a trigger valve to close when the tank is full and close keeping the pressure only on your fill hose (which better be a really good hose) . And the pump only runs when your useing water and they last forever the way we would use them .
 

chucky

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Good looking build my friend. Are you planning on utilizing air to move the water? Or what did you mean by pressurized service connection?
We used that idea briefly in the early 90s useing 30 gallon horizontal air compressor tanks and our coach air tanks but soon as the air was down and they take up so much room for no capacity ! Just a shurflo brand 12 v inline water pump won out over every thing we tried for economical and no pressurized bomb water tank .
 

Mullaney

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That was my way of saying a place to connect "city" water- water already under pressure so I won't need to run a pump if I want to run the water. It amounts to a spigot tapped into the pressure side of the house system with a flow check device to prevent backfill into the tank and out the tank's vent line. I believe the pump has backflow prevention, or I will have a stand alone device.

Chris
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You definitely need some sort of pressure regulator when you connect to "city water" is pretty important. Like @chucky mentioned, a hundred PSI is a lot of water pressure to deal with.

Friend of mine with a basement in his house lost everything stored in that basement (and the neighbor beside him) when CMUD (Charlotte Mecklenburg Utility Department) had a pressure spike in the water main that ruptured copper water lines.
 

ckouba

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You definitely need some sort of pressure regulator when you connect to "city water" is pretty important. Like @chucky mentioned, a hundred PSI is a lot of water pressure to deal with.

Friend of mine with a basement in his house lost everything stored in that basement (and the neighbor beside him) when CMUD (Charlotte Mecklenburg Utility Department) had a pressure spike in the water main that ruptured copper water lines.
Understood. I knew there was something I was missing.....

I may facilitate for it but I doubt I would really ever use it. My other campers had it... and I never used it. But I did think it was a good option to have available.
 

Bill Nutting

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A water pressure regulator is a must in my opinion. I paid something like $65.00 for one from e-trailer.com. They have a veriety of them some are fixed pressure. Mine is adjustable and has a pressure gauge. I figured if it saves my plumbing once, it was cheap insurance. BTW, if you use a Flojet on demand pump, they have the check valve built in. A good source for them is electronics goldmine.com. They have a good selection and fair prices. If you are using a diaphragm pump, I recommend an accumulator tank. You install it on the output side of the pump. It will smooth out the pulsing and will delay the pump starting on short faucet runs. You can find these on Amazon.
 

chucky

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You are correct. There are no clearance issues. I don't have any specific pics but the short story is the subframe rail and the base rail of the habitat gave me ~12" of height to play with, and the floor deck gives me another 3" as well. I think the bottom of the structure is slightly below the tops of the frame rails, but even so, there is more clearance between the bottom of the tank supporting structure and the ball joint for the V-links than there is between the axles and the frame rails. For there to be a clearance issue, the axles will have to seriously relocate some of the other chassis components first!

You can kind of see the structure in these pics:


It just came to me while looking at the end of where the water tank will be in this pic to either this end or the other which looked like you will have some spare room you could put a screw in bung to mount a 12v or 110 block heater in the end of the tank to keep the water from freezing near all your outlets in a hard freeze . I think you would be glad you did it while u still can if you ever found yourself in artic conditions .
 

chucky

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Im useing plastic tanks so i never thought about it for my truck but i ran across a block heater i bought a while back for the 3116 freeze plug hole and thought rite then if i ever build another with metal tanks i would definatly use them . in the bus's stainless tank we all used a little like a 7in x 71n ceramic heater kept our tanks from freezing up in canada winters
 

coachgeo

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Im useing plastic tanks so i never thought about it for my truck but i ran across a block heater i bought a while back for the 3116 freeze plug hole and thought rite then if i ever build another with metal tanks i would definatly use them . in the bus's stainless tank we all used a little like a 7in x 71n ceramic heater kept our tanks from freezing up in canada winters
they sell 12v hot water heater elements.... standard hot water heater configuration. Might work fine for what your thinking if you put it high enough to not be close to plastic edge ... but not so high it could never NOT be submerged. Granted guess one could put it in a small side metal tank and circulate the water thru it too?
 

ckouba

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Hi all- I am alive.... Have just had a distraction divert my attention for a few months.

In 2016, I had an acquaintance enter the Portland Adult Soapbox Derby. His entry was a little scary, but he still managed a top 10 finish. I knew I could build something "better", but wasn't sure how that would stack up. So I put together an entry over the off season, and it seemed pretty fast. I had a buddy helping with the testing duties and such, and he thought it looked like fun too, so I built him one too.

We entered the 2017 event... and I won. Yeah, the whole thing, and the other car came in 5th. And we had a blast doing so! The hook was set.

For 2018, I wanted to enter again, but wasn't sure if I should tweak and re-enter the same or build a new one. There was a derby memo that they hadn't had a 4 wheel car make the final (never mind win) in over a decade. I thought, "Challenge accepted!" I built a new 4 wheel car... and won again (and the other car finished 3rd).

The new car had many enormous improvements over the first, but I was pretty confident I could go even faster with those improvements on a 3 wheel car. So I built another new car for 2019. And won again. And the other cars finished 2nd and 3rd.

Thanks to covid, 2020 and 2021 were scrubbed.

Through all this time, I was getting closer and closer to the course record- 71.1 seconds. My first year wasn't too close, but it felt achievable (75.0s). My 2018 entry was a step function quicker- 72.6s. 2019's time was tauntingly close- 71.9s. With the announcement that we'd have a 2022 event and wanting to bring the record back to Oregon (a Cali team holds it), everything else ground to a halt this spring while I built a new car. This is why there has been no progress on the camper.

The event was ~2w ago (8/20). This year, I only built and entered one car. It was fantastic, and I won again, and I improved my best time down the hill, but I didn't break the record. For my best time, I only managed a 71.3s pass, so yeah- 0.2s off of the course record. Ugh!! So close yet so far.

If you're curious what goes into the derby build process, I have a build thread on another forum for each years' entry. This is the 2022 build thread and there are links to prior years in the first post: https://www.gt40s.com/threads/gravity-racer-part-iv.55915/#post-571587

This year's car on course:


It's a blast, but now that it's done for the year, I am back to working on the camper... except for the week I took and did a paddle through the San Juan Islands with my dad - https://photos.app.goo.gl/9SjbzhYxta6gxXbY7





But last week I started working on (read: staring at) the big empty inside of a camper box that I've built. It might not seem like much, but so far this week, I got the ceiling of the bedroom area constructed. It still needs its finishing treatment, but the concept is good and I am on to doing the walls now. Even the roof hatch is in and reasonably finished.



It's not massively visible progress, but it is progress. We have plans to take it out at the end of the month, regardless of the state of finish, just to get out and poke through the countryside and spend a night or two in it. If our expectations remain low enough, we'll probably have no problem!!

Chris
 
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ckouba

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Up with the ceiling and on with the walls (and windows)!

Thurs:


Fri:


Sat:


So much nicer working on it with the windows open. It bodes well for when we'll be out camping in it and it's hot.

Once all the framing and construction is complete, this will all be torn down, sealed, and reinstalled. I know that's a lot of work but after what I've got into it, I don't want anything rotting out or molding up. Insulation will be finalized at that point too.

Feels good to be making visible progress and looking forward to our end of the month excursion!
 

ckouba

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Front wall roughed in:


Shelving on the right side:


And the left:


Center section of the left shelving is reinforced as it is right underneath the hatch and may inadvertently end up being used as a step.

If we like the shelving layout after our little trip, I will rip it all out, seal the raw plywood, insulate, and reinstall, and then get moving with the rest of the build out.
 

ckouba

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We're going on our trial excursion next week, so a bed is in order. We now have one!!

Mattress in place:


And I finally put the grille back in:


There will be lots of disassembly once we're back, but putting the mattress in was a monumental leap forward. The vehicle has a purpose now.
 

ckouba

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Using some scrap lumber, I mocked up the basic interior components- long counter on driver side, pedestal for the dinette and aft wall of bathroom on pass side. Also made a set of stairs to get up to bed.

Forward looking aft:


Aft looking forward:


The dinette pedestal:


Super quick and dirty but really helps to get a feel for the space/layout. Will be interesting to walk around with it this weekend and see if we really want to adjust. I think we're pretty good on the layout in general, just adjusting the spacing for the walkways and door sizes will likely be the biggest changes.

Also visible in the last photo is the filler connection for the water tank which I fitted this week as well. The system is still unplumbed aside from that, but it's a nice thing to have taken care of.
 

ckouba

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Long time coming, finally.....



3 days up by Mt Hood, everything went perfectly, layout seems to work and flow very well with plenty of space to function. Well worth the effort.



More pics and impressions shortly, off to unpack, strip out the interior, and spray it all down so I can get on with a final build out.
 

serpico760

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I still wasn't ready to abandon the pass through idea though. With our truck camper, that was one of the things which I had always wanted and even if we didn't use it all that much, I could see how it would be useful. After burning some additional creative calories, I thought up a fairly simple manner to load and store the spare- make a ramp which flops down to the side from the rear cargo bay and just roll the spare in and out. The space will be at least 4' tall and if I hinge two 4' pieces together, I can probably roll it up that incline if needed. If that proves too difficult, there are manual winches which I can adapt to complete the task. At this point, the true tear down began.

Decking removed, intake torn down:


Trans cooler relocated:


I knew I wanted to keep the intakes up high in the space behind the cab. Having seen solutions like this on the web, I tracked down two Donaldson PSD10's and started copying a design I had seen. Turns out it was way too flexible and the air cleaner seemed like it would vibrate back and forth, likely hitting the cab or box. That support came out.

I ended up using a pair of 2x2 square tubes on each side, mitered and tapered into the air lift beam with a perch at the top where the filters mount. They are rock solid. On the driver's side, I took a circular section out of the tubes which was large enough to fit the expansion tank, and then cut off the tank mount from the original intake and welded that in.

Expansion tank installed:


For my next trick, I needed to scab together a few elbows and tubing to connect the 5" output from the filters to the 4" input of the OEM intake. I ordered 5 to 4 inch silicone couplers and a bunch of elbows from a place I found online and picked up some straight stock at a local place. The specific component I needed was a Y-pipe which flowed nicely into the OEM intake. The other elbows were a pretty easy task.

After some careful measuring and then more careful measuring, I started to cut. And then weld.

Step 1 - Y joint


Post-weld interior of Y joint:


Due to the offset nature of the intake, the pass side upward bend would also weld directly to the Y joint. In addition, the constraints to get the Y-pipe to flow smoothly into the OEM tube required another elbow getting welded to the output end of the Y joint. In total, there are 4 elbows cut and welded to form this assembly:



After that, the rest seemed easy- just join a few 90's with some straight sections of appropriate length. Eventually, you end up with something like this:



The couplers allow a bit of flex and imprecision for the system. I had to cut ~2' of the OEM tube to get my Y-pipe to connect smoothly, but it worked out fantastically with the coupler slipping on just aft of the intake support on the motor. Almost like I planned it that way.

In the interim, I had the driveshafts out and rebuilt. This resolved most of the vibrations which persisted after the changing of the tires. There is still a little bit to go, but it is WAY better than it was when I got it.

Other things also done are the relocation of the hydraulic controls and the manual pump. These are now on the pass side behind the cab. It's not the most effective use of space, but it's what I am going with for now. I have a few loose ends to tie up but at this point, I am about ready to start thinking seriously about building the box!

As it sits today:
Very nice I was thinking of something very similar but if you don't mind I might borrow your idea as I have the same air intakes.Donaldson Air intake bracket.png
 
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