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M1101/02 trailers: I need to change the wheels and need the exact size

tobyS

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What dia rims and size tires do you have? There are bolster rims that are the 6 lug like a deuce and 16.5" but I think your talking smaller, like auto size 6 lug. Post a couple of pictures. Google images shows a lot of different sizes on a M101A2 (and I don't have one).

Amish make steel wheels that would be lower....welcome to SS.
 

tobyS

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That posted. So you have a standard budd 20" like the M105 has. Tire looks good.

The bolster wheel is 16.5". It's too late for me to snap a picture but look at (google images) the 12.5x 16.5" that is on the M1061 trailer or bolster trailer. I saw a wanted add that had a couple of reply's, so they are out there.
 

tobyS

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Go down to reply 12 on this site: http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=57382.0

The bottom photo shows an M105A2 with bolster (M1061) 12.5 x 16.5" rims and tires. I don't know the height without measuring it

Myself....I would reduce the spring pack by about 5 springs also.

The HMMWV tires are also 16.5 and 37.5" high. The OD of a 9.00 - 20 is (I think) around 44.

Look at this 101A3....the HMMWV tires on bolster rims would look a lot like this: http://www.govplanet.com/for-sale/U...nd-M101A3-Cargo-Trailer-North-Carolina/797585
 
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ReelTrouble

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Maxtor, have you noticed any difference losing the surge brakes on the M1101? I like your idea of just altering the hitch since I also want to keep the stock tires.

Is just running the 12” riser a bad idea?
 
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maxtor

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Maxtor, have you noticed any difference losing the surge brakes on the M1101? I like your idea of just altering the hitch since I also want to keep the stock tires.

Is just running the 12” riser a bad idea?
I routinely load our trailer to one ton, and have no problems. I would not like to have to make a panic stop at 70 mph without trailer brakes, but it does just fine being pulled by a 2014 Jeep Rubicon. If I pulled it with our F250 psd, I would think it would even be better, because the truck has larger brakes than the Jeep. The best of both worlds is to change the hydraulic trailer brakes to electric. Some of the guys have done this modification. I pull ours loaded at about 50 mph and have no problem with the Jeep.

Not sure about a 12" riser, I will have to post a picture of our setup. It works great and pulls straight.
 
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tobyS

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Yes I do have a m105a2 trailer with a 20" budd rims but I'm having trouble finding a smaller rim in the six lug bolt pattern please help...and thank you for the help 
Bolster wheel (also M1061) and 12.50-16.5 tire
 

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ReelTrouble

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I’m planning on mounting my slide in truck camper so with gear will probably be around 1 ton. Pulling with Toyota Tundra. I’ll keep an eye out for your write up. Thanks
 

tobyS

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My riser is maybe 6. The back and forth and side to side has loosened my receiver fit.
 

maxtor

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I’m planning on mounting my slide in truck camper so with gear will probably be around 1 ton. Pulling with Toyota Tundra. I’ll keep an eye out for your write up. Thanks
Here is a picture of my alterations. I welded a 4" box tubing under the existing tongue, then welded another tube under that to level trailer when pulling behind the Jeep or Pickup.
The way to do this is to set the trailer level, then measure under the existing tube and measure the ball height of your truck. Then you will know how much you need to weld under the existing tongue on the m1101. Works great and trailer is level.

001.JPG
 

tobyS

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Here is a picture of my alterations. I welded a 4" box tubing under the existing tongue, then welded another tube under that to level trailer when pulling behind the Jeep or Pickup.
The way to do this is to set the trailer level, then measure under the existing tube and measure the ball height of your truck. Then you will know how much you need to weld under the existing tongue on the m1101. Works great and trailer is level.

View attachment 743430


Did you eliminate the brake MC operator? That is on and M1101?

Here is what I did to get down on 2 5/16" ball. Ring can mount higher. I will be extending the tongue with 3x3.

Oh yea, on the second photo there is a bolt through it. That stops movement of the interior arm structure from applying the brakes, making it near rigid. It stops the brake MC from operating entirely, then remove it to have them.
 

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maxtor

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Did you eliminate the brake MC operator? That is on and M1101?

Here is what I did to get down on 2 5/16" ball. Ring can mount higher. I will be extending the tongue with 3x3.

Oh yea, on the second photo there is a bolt through it. That stops movement of the interior arm structure from applying the brakes, making it near rigid. It stops the brake MC from operating entirely, then remove it to have them.
What you have will work, but with my setup, there is no movement. It is solid.
 

tobyS

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The bolt makes it solid. It stops movement in and it's at the full out position. I didn't want to lose the surge brakes when I want them, but I can run fine without the brake actuator moving in and out now also, just relying on the truck brakes. I guess it cold shear off a 3/8 grade 8 bolt, but then I got other problems too.
 

1stDeuce

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The bolt makes it solid. It stops movement in and it's at the full out position. I didn't want to lose the surge brakes when I want them, but I can run fine without the brake actuator moving in and out now also, just relying on the truck brakes. I guess it cold shear off a 3/8 grade 8 bolt, but then I got other problems too.
Just curious, but in what situation do you not want the surge brakes? I converted an M1101 into a brush fire trailer with a 200 gallon water tank and a pump and hose reel... The surge brakes were really smoothly, with no detectable banging or clunking or "surging".

So far as I can tell, they don't work much at all in reverse, because I've backed it up some pretty steep hills, and through ditches without trouble...
 
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