ChrisOM50
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Ok I have a six lug pattern on my M101A2 so how would I lower that ?? # I'm a newbe
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I think your trailer is an M105A2.Ok I have a six lug pattern on my M101A2 so how would I lower that ?? # I'm a newbe
I routinely load our trailer to one ton, and have no problems. I would not like to have to make a panic stop at 70 mph without trailer brakes, but it does just fine being pulled by a 2014 Jeep Rubicon. If I pulled it with our F250 psd, I would think it would even be better, because the truck has larger brakes than the Jeep. The best of both worlds is to change the hydraulic trailer brakes to electric. Some of the guys have done this modification. I pull ours loaded at about 50 mph and have no problem with the Jeep.Maxtor, have you noticed any difference losing the surge brakes on the M1101? I like your idea of just altering the hitch since I also want to keep the stock tires.
Is just running the 12” riser a bad idea?
Yes I do have a m105a2 trailer with a 20" budd rims but I'm having trouble finding a smaller rim in the six lug bolt pattern please help...and thank you for the help
Bolster wheel (also M1061) and 12.50-16.5 tireYes I do have a m105a2 trailer with a 20" budd rims but I'm having trouble finding a smaller rim in the six lug bolt pattern please help...and thank you for the help
Here is a picture of my alterations. I welded a 4" box tubing under the existing tongue, then welded another tube under that to level trailer when pulling behind the Jeep or Pickup.I’m planning on mounting my slide in truck camper so with gear will probably be around 1 ton. Pulling with Toyota Tundra. I’ll keep an eye out for your write up. Thanks
Here is a picture of my alterations. I welded a 4" box tubing under the existing tongue, then welded another tube under that to level trailer when pulling behind the Jeep or Pickup.
The way to do this is to set the trailer level, then measure under the existing tube and measure the ball height of your truck. Then you will know how much you need to weld under the existing tongue on the m1101. Works great and trailer is level.
View attachment 743430
What you have will work, but with my setup, there is no movement. It is solid.Did you eliminate the brake MC operator? That is on and M1101?
Here is what I did to get down on 2 5/16" ball. Ring can mount higher. I will be extending the tongue with 3x3.
Oh yea, on the second photo there is a bolt through it. That stops movement of the interior arm structure from applying the brakes, making it near rigid. It stops the brake MC from operating entirely, then remove it to have them.
Just curious, but in what situation do you not want the surge brakes? I converted an M1101 into a brush fire trailer with a 200 gallon water tank and a pump and hose reel... The surge brakes were really smoothly, with no detectable banging or clunking or "surging".The bolt makes it solid. It stops movement in and it's at the full out position. I didn't want to lose the surge brakes when I want them, but I can run fine without the brake actuator moving in and out now also, just relying on the truck brakes. I guess it cold shear off a 3/8 grade 8 bolt, but then I got other problems too.
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