M35A2 converting to super singles

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Location
South bend,Indiana
I'm interested in swapping my deuce to super singles. I found a couple sites for adapters and wheels. Didn't know if they are the right things for what i need. I don't mind if wheels are scuffed up because I'll end up getting the sandblasted and powder coated. And i need to know what else I'll need to complete the swap. If anyone has feed back or information it would be greatly appreciated.

Here are some sites i found for wheel adapters and wheels:


 

Fatalid

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I’ve purchased from Feltz before - pretty easy to work with.
The adapters I bought from Boyce Equipment in Utah. They were closer to me and I was able to have a family member pick them up and save me the shipping.


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davidb56

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No. I am not. We as in business partners had a surplus contract of tires and wheels for a few years. We have lots left.
I bought a 1st gear from them and was happy with their help and very quick response. Good to know about the tires. mine are only a few years old right now. They may outlive me.
 

tobyS

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While I have A3 wheels, I like the custom made wheels that Eastern is selling. But man are they pricey at over $400 each. The offset is good to bring the front out a bit and then use them dish out on the back.

Actually I like them on the front (only) because of backspace and A3 wheels with dish out on the back.
 

fasttruck

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The Army itself started buying M35 "eager beaver" deuces with 6 wheels. Similar buy was the M 135 GMC. However the 6 wheel design proved to be less than stable and the trucks were then purchased with 10 wheels plus spare. Forward 40 years and towards the end of the M35 era in reserve components they switched back to 6 wheels this time with 11:00X20R tires. Roll overs resumed until trucks withdrawn from service. My unit was involved in a project to recover almost new 11:00X20R tires from the now salvage deuces for use on M818 5 tons. As the wheels are different it was necessary to dismount 22 tires and mount 17 tires per truck, We did one a day with an air impact wrench and hand tools until we ran out of donor trucks. NJARNG would never think of buying a new tire for your tractor but it was OK to get them for mess and supply trucks that ran a fraction of the mileage.
 

Metalpoptart

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In regards to singling out, I have everything I need to do it, but I did have someone tell me I would need to shim the front end to track straight? Does anyone have any info in regard to that claim?
 

Recovry4x4

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In regards to singling out, I have everything I need to do it, but I did have someone tell me I would need to shim the front end to track straight? Does anyone have any info in regard to that claim?
I don't think adjusting caster is part of the singling out process. I've had a dozen deuces or more and each one had it's own unique driving characteristics. It will be the same going back and forth between singles and duals.
 

Godspeed131

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@Metalpoptart Yea I read about the caster suggestions when I singled out mine last year to the 395’s. When I did convert mine at first it did feel a little “Squirrly” on the highway compared to Stock. It did wonder in the lanes, but all I did was drop the tire pressure down from 50 psi to right around 35-40 all around and most if not all went away. Different trucks can handle completely different though so just see what yours needs. If the tire pressure adjustment doesn’t help, IF you have issues at all, you may have to go with the caster modification.

Also If your going with just singling the truck out without drastic tire size changes or sticking with the bias plies and not going to radials, you shouldn’t have any issues and disregard the above statement lol. I believe the main issue with the caster is going to the radial tires in general.
 
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tobyS

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When you go from the reversed budd and bias 9.00 to a larger floatation (radial probably) and a wider track, they "wander" a bit. Stability is improved a lot. They did it on all A3's.
 

Metalpoptart

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@Metalpoptart Yea I read about the caster suggestions when I singled out mine last year to the 395’s. When I did convert mine at first it did feel a little “Squirrly” on the highway compared to Stock. It did wonder in the lanes, but all I did was drop the tire pressure down from 50 psi to right around 35-40 all around and most if not all went away. Different trucks can handle completely different though so just see what yours needs. If the tire pressure adjustment doesn’t help, IF you have issues at all, you may have to go with the caster modification.

Also If your going with just singling the truck out without drastic tire size changes or sticking with the bias plies and not going to radials, you shouldn’t have any issues and disregard the above statement lol. I believe the main issue with the caster is going to the radial tires in general.
I went with the radial Goodyear’s, MV/T’s, any idea the length of the 1 inch bolts for mounting the MRAPS to the adapter plate? I’ve heard 2.5” length and 3” so need to verify please and thank you
 

Godspeed131

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@Metalpoptart I went with 2.75 in long ones with mine. I’ll post some pictures, they were perfect but just barely long enough. All depends which wheels you have. More than likely you have the aluminum ones but there are steel ones also. The steel are a thinner hub area compared to aluminum. If you have the aluminum ones I’d go 2.75 or longer. Grade 5 will be plenty strong enough also, I asked when I did mine. All the hardware I got from copper state nut & bolt company. They seemed to be the best priced when I did mine and the customer service was awesome. If you have any questions just ask, happy to help any time DCEFE765-32A3-4461-ACB9-A8DFE04B5F6F.jpeg38F42C67-1EC7-46AD-A2EE-0BA3F1CD9AB9.png
 

Metalpoptart

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@Metalpoptart I went with 2.75 in long ones with mine. I’ll post some pictures, they were perfect but just barely long enough. All depends which wheels you have. More than likely you have the aluminum ones but there are steel ones also. The steel are a thinner hub area compared to aluminum. If you have the aluminum ones I’d go 2.75 or longer. Grade 5 will be plenty strong enough also, I asked when I did mine. All the hardware I got from copper state nut & bolt company. They seemed to be the best priced when I did mine and the customer service was awesome. If you have any questions just ask, happy to help any time View attachment 826984View attachment 826985
I was told not to use nylon, but to use the metal locking type nut, but I appreciate the info! That’s exactly what I needed, what was the torque? And I have the aluminum rims.
 

Godspeed131

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I’ve not had a issue with them so far and have used it quite a lot here on the farm, but I don’t plan on ever taking them apart for anything and have applied torque strip on them to watch any chance of loosening. On the torque I don’t have the exact spec but I believe I went somewhere around the 4-450 ftlbs on them I believe you can just use general torque specs for the hardware you use.
 

simp5782

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Using nylon on something like a tire/hub assembly is a no no. Vibration and heat make the nylon weak over time. There is a reason reason military used fine thread with lock nuts on deuces and 5 tons. They vibrate A LOT. We all know this.

I've ran across nylon fine thread locknuts on some rebuilt companion flanges on the M939s and when the joint gets weak and has a Vibration the nylon just crumbles out.
 

Godspeed131

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Also one thing I might add is when you are swapping the hubs over if you are is to throughly check the wheel studs. Out of everything those six buggers are the weak link. Which the age of the truck they can be stress cracked. I found four between my front two hubs cracked visually, and quickly decided to change out the complete front axle set
 
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