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M35a2 stalling when hot?

JP871Racing

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First I'd like to say that I'm a proud deuce owner and I probably wouldn't be able to own one if it wasn't for the help of this website so I say thank you. Anyway getting to the point, I have a 1967 Kaiser with a LDT-465C and I've been trying to search on here plus trying to find some kind of helpful article in the TMs but haven't seen anything yet, I was driving the other day mainly back roads, then I hit the highway. I say it was roughly about 90° out. The truck was running very smooth all day, the temp gauge was going between 160° and 180°. The minute I turned off the highway and drove up to the stop light the truck went to a very rough idle then just died. I gave it a second, then it fired right back up, but if I didn't keep my foot on the pedal it would just stall out, it did this to me for the next few stop lights till I got back on the highway then all was good. I just would like some opinions of where to check because I would hate to either wreck into someone if that happened at the wrong time, so any input would be greatly appreciated!
 

clinto

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When is the last time the filters were changed, are you draining the water out of them and is the in-tank electric pump working?
 

porkysplace

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Your going to need to download these :
TM's for the Deuce

This should be read before operating a deuce
TM9-2320-209-10-1.pdf
TM9-2320-209-10-1 Operation, Installation and Reference data for the M35 series, Operator Level.
This will shows what needs to be inspected regularly
GTA-9-1-1851-8.pdf M35 complete diagram of with descriptions of all components.

These will assist with maintainence and trouble shooting,
TM9-2320-209-20-1.pdf
TM9-2320-209-20-1 Scheduled maintenance organizational level M44 series 2-1/2 ton trucks.

TM9-2320-209-20-2-1.pdf
TM9-2320-209-20-2-1 Organization level - Troubleshooting Multifuel M35 Part 1 of 2.

TM9-2320-209-20-2-2.pdf
TM9-2320-209-20-2-2 Organization level - Troubleshooting Multifuel M35 Part 2 of 2.
 

JP871Racing

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Filters were changed when I bought the truck roughly two months ago, now that's not to say that they got dirty again, I'm gonna buy a filter kit just for assurance, the fuel pump is brand new. I literally just put it in two weeks ago, fuse was checked, and all electrical contacts were cleaned, I have been draining all the filters on a weekly basis for any kind of water
 

porkysplace

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How much fuel was in the tank ?
They been known to get pin holes in the pick-up tube also .
And never trust the fuel gauge.
 

JP871Racing

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The tank was just under 3/4 of a tank, but I do feel safe with my fuel gauge, the gauge is new plus I cleaned the sending unit contact very gently and very well when I had the fuel pump out and it works well just because I like to take long trips, I did check the pickup tube when I pulled the pump out, I shot a quick blast of compressed air in that line and I had a soapy bubble solution on it when I did it and no bubbles, I know how things like to dry rot on these truck especially if they were sitting for a period of time.
 

Wildchild467

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Adjusting the valves is a good place to start also. .010" on the intake, .025 on the exhaust. I'm a firm believer in preventative maintenance.
 

JP871Racing

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Never though of that, when I get home, I'm gonna pop the cover off and check them, it's just kinda baffling when the truck runs so good and dies out when it gets hot, but makes sense if the clearance is off, thanks!
 

Wildchild467

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Never though of that, when I get home, I'm gonna pop the cover off and check them, it's just kinda baffling when the truck runs so good and dies out when it gets hot, but makes sense if the clearance is off, thanks!

Exactly. Valves are like kids, when you don't hear them, that is when they are usually in trouble.
 

doghead

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Warm stalls(as you described), are an indication of a worn out hydraulic head.
 
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JP871Racing

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I wanna give everyone a status update, yesterday I took off all the fuel filters and replaced them with stock ones. I forgot I was given a filter replacement kit when I bought the truck. The filters weren't too dirty, but I replaced them anyway, but there was a fair amount of sediment at the bottom of the primary and secondary canisters. The final canister was the cleanest. I wanna give a small tip on tightening the belts up. This is just the way I like to tighten them, but maybe someone else may find it useful. I use a piece of 1/2 hard copper pipe about 2 feet long. I stick it between the block and the generator, and pull it till the pipe bends. It tightens them to a nice safe point because I found if they go anymore, you'll start trashing your bearings in your water pump and generator pretty quick. I checked the air filter while I was at it also and it still looks like it was brand new. I'm gonna wait to check my valve clearness. I'm ordering a new set of valve cover gaskets, but for the time being I checked at least two rockers thought the oil fill cap and they were within reason. That doesn't say that the rest are that way. I guess when I pull the covers off I'll at least get a chance to clean the head real well and all the oil passages, and I'll give it a fresh oil change while I check all my clearences, I'll keep everyone posted.
 

JP871Racing

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Warm stalls(as you described), are an indication of a worn out hydraulic head.
I'm gonna hold off on the hydraulic head for right now until I get the valves checked, and I did see there is a great thread on here for removing, rebuilding,reinstalling the hydraulic head. I checked the price of them new or rebuilt, and it's not something in my budget right now, but if it boils down to it, I'll be rebuilding it for sure. Thanks doghead for something else to check out.
 

RAYZER

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Those valve cover gaskets are usually reusable if your carefull.
What rpm doe's the engine idle at before warmed up?
After warmed up,doe's it stall when coming down off of higher rpm when letting off the peddle?
 
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JP871Racing

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I guess I can give it a shot and reuse them but I'll still have the gaskets on the shelf for my sanity. When it's a cold start up, I know it might be a problem too, but I have to hold the pedal to the floor to get it to start. Usually takes 10-20 seconds or so to start, and usually when it does it runs at 500-550rpm with the pedal still to the floor for another 15-20 seconds then it will idle on it's own right at 750-850rpm. Now when I'm doing this, I do have a massive cloud of smoke coming outta my stack also. So far I'm still leaning on valve adjustment, then the hydraulic head rebuild is next, but if it needs rebuilt, I'm saving it for a winter time project. I hate not being able to drive the rest of the summer. I have a screwy work schedule and not much tinker time.
 
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JP871Racing

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Forgot the second part of your question, yes it only stalled when it's was hot like climbing a small hill on the highway then turning off the exit ramp to the stop light it stalled when I drifted in neutral to the light.
 

RAYZER

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In my opinion, this doesn't sound like a valve adjustment issue.
I think your dealing with a fuel system problem.
I would look at injectors and injection pump, a compression test wouldn't be a bad idea either.
Maybe start with a fuel pressure test.
 
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JP871Racing

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Okay, compression test isn't a bad idea since I'm right there, still would like to check the valves just for p.m. As far as the injectors, I'm gonna have to look at the tm to test them because I don't have a clue to know if there bad, but just for the sake of asking, is it a day job on rebuilding the injection pump? I guess just a gasket set will work for a rebuild? Like I said before, I'm still new to the Diesel engines. The deuce is pretty easy to work on, and the TMs are very helpful too. I have been doing a lot of reading lately on the truck, but I don't wanna have to dump a ton of money into this truck when I read the troubleshooting section. I greatly appriciate everyone helping me so far, thanks!
 
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