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M35a2 stalling when hot?

patracy

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FWIW, a thicker "fuel" would mask HH plunger issues. When I wiped my HH. I could get it to run on 100% WMO and not at all on diesel.
 

73m819

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It never stops to amaze me what people think a MULTI-FUEL will run on on a full time basses, the multi-fuel is a WW2 German design, after the war, both the USA and Russia mainly with other nations following along but not as much used this design. The idea was that the NEXT war would be fought in Europe, and the multi-fuel was a diesel engine that by design could run on battle field scavenged fuel IN ORDER TO FINISH THE MISSION and GET THE PERSONAL OUT, never mind that it ate a engine, ip, hh, all of this was replaceable NOT the mission. I would guess that 95% oil to cut mix is just a little thick which would put a he11 of a load on the ip and the hh, yes the engine is designed to burn it but at what cost, Remember that the design and use of these engines was by the military that had DEEP pockets that could AFFORD throw-away engines and parts for the sake of the mission.

Years ago I ran across a rather long list of what could be dumped into a multi-fuel tank and the "suggested" mix "if available", on the left side was members which corresponded with notes at the bottom of the page, these notes where what could be expected when using each fuel, well over 50% of the fuels caused some damage to the engine, ip, ect, for even a short time of use, and the longer the use the higher the % got till you were looking at about 95%, after using alternate fuels you were supposed to have maintance drain the fuel system, fill with diesel, check and make sure that there was no damage, if there was, fix it.
 
718
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Been driving my Deuce six day a week for 3 1/2 years on 100% used motor oil. Did have some issues with the injector pump but after replacing it it was apparent it was defective before I bought the truck. The problem was in the advance unit. I agree with your amazement but its how well the engine works on used oil. Owning a repair shop it is so nice to never have to deal with getting rid of used oil and almost never buying fuel.
 

acesneights1

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I'm not sure if this would work on an AMBAC but on the DB2s when the head and rotor get worn you can dump water on the IP to cool it off and see if it improves.
 

jsthnt@gmail.com

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Most of the time that I have issues with mine not running it is the filters are plugged. The return lines are leaking (letting air into the system) along with a week or none functioning in tank pump.
 

JP871Racing

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Okay so here it goes, the rain today kept me from making any progress, but I tried something that a Vietnam mechanic told me at a car show this past Friday, two days before my stalling issue. He told me about the quarter trick on the IP. So I though what the heck I'll try it I got nothing to loose. I popped off the cover with the three bolts in a triangle, I'm sure there's a name for it but I really don't wanna search for it right now, so I put three quarters under the cover and carefully put it back on. I just took it for a drive an there was a huge difference in power that I got back. Then I went to the gas station and pulled up to the kerosene pump and dropped in about 6 gallons, and I gained even more power like I'm climbing steep inclines in forth gear at half throttle, instead of second like I used to be at full throttle, but I'm still scratching my head. I haven't by-passed the fdc yet, everything is completely stock, I never increased the fuel on the IP and all of the copper security tags are still all over the IP. Is it possible that the HH is still good with my quick power increase? Or should I still consider replacing it? Plus I know the fdc are very prone to leaking in the oil, but I am closely watching my oil level and it still never increased over the full mark since I bought the truck not even a hair. If anyone would like to throw there 2cents at me, should I try and fix anything else on the IP? Or just leave my three quarters in place?
 
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RAYZER

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In my last post I inserter a thread link, in that thread is mentioned the quarter trick but using two quarters not three.
You have turned up your fuel but probably too much, be careful.
And yes, your hh may be fine.
 

JP871Racing

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I'm gonna be very careful till I order my pyro gauge this weekend. I apologize not checking out your link to the thread Ray, but I just did and it was very helpful getting some facts straight that I didn't know.
 
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Mattk211

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What was the end of the matter jp? I'm a mechanic working on a customer's deuce and a half right now. It stalls at stop lights after getting up to temp.
 

JP871Racing

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I’m pretty sure if I remember correctly back that far that the main issue was the in tank lift pump was clogged with debris. All of the fuel filters needed changed even though I do remeber that they were not that old, but I’m sure it’s definitely due to sediment that was still left in the fuel tank. I changed the oil and filters too. Then after that, I just took it for a long hard run up into the mountains to really clean the engine out. I’ve always used clean diesel and I’ve never had a problem since then.
 

Floridianson

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What was the end of the matter jp? I'm a mechanic working on a customer's deuce and a half right now. It stalls at stop lights after getting up to temp.
Well we just had a problem child Deuce on the board and we were guessing fuel pressure problems and if in tank pump was catching air.
Truth first thing with a diesel is change all three filters. That was the problem with the last one I saw here but also the in tank pump rubber hose was falling apart and all the rubber clogged the filter. If you have the stock fuel filters and not spin on then you can also see what if any clogged the filter. If spin on then it would be a good idea to cut them open and look sea.
 
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