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Or, your differentials are pressurizing and causing differential lube to seep out. Open the fill plugs slowly and carefully and listen to see if you hear an air release sound.
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M813 Wake Up Thread
- Thread starter Ajax MD
- Start date
Vents are located on the drivers side of the axle housing on the rear and the passengers side in the front. Use a 7/16" wrench or socket and remove them and install an 1/8" npt hose barb. and add a hose to route up higher.
RhinoTAC
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So after the rain let up I crawled underneath and found it's not diff fluid.Its It's the throttle body or the fuel distribution control. Its leaking fuel just a tiny drop at a time. See photo added. Also why is my transmission missing this plug? I can see the clutch spinning. Also see photo. Thanks guys
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Fording plug. You only install when entering high water. leave it out to prevent buildup of crap inside of it like clutch material or oil.
Injection pump seems to weep off that lift pump or the throttle shaft mostly. Common thing. Have it rebuilt if it is sucking air.
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Yup, Fuel pump is leaking at the throttle shaft....most likely. Look higher on the pump, if it is wet at the plate covering the shaft and not higher, it needs a repair...the pump.
162tcat
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Disregard, saw the other posts addressing the vents.
RhinoTAC
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Forgive my ignorance but this my first diesel. Can you point me in the right direction on getting new parts or NOS and a "how to" on fixing it lol.
RhinoTAC
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Here is a top pic
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So, I'm new here as well. Here's what I've been doing-
Download all of the Army/Air Force tech manual PDF's from the tech manual section. Save them on your computer/tablet. Go to the parts manuals, to the fuel system section and find the NSN (National Stock Number) and/or part number for the part(s) you're looking for. Then, plug those numbers into the search engines of our favorite vendors, or just Google in general. The NHC 250 is a commercial engine so Cummins will have parts. They may not be the most affordable source so you have to dig around.
The manuals are broken down fairly logically with lots of sketches and pictures for "visual learners" (like me). I ain't gonna lie, it's like drinking from a wide open fire hydrant. Once you read the procedure for replacing/rebuilding the fuel pump, you'll no doubt have some very specific questions that are NOT covered in the manual. You come back here, and guys like Simp and WWagner help you through the fine details and the nitty gritty.
Some common parts vendors:
https://www.easternsurplus.net/
www.tnjmurray.com
https://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/
https://www.bigmikesmotorpool.com/
www.deucemansurplus.com/
More than likely its the throttle shaft... You can repair it on your own but it isn't much fun. You have to remove the pump and disassemble the unit. Member Technoweenie did it awhile back. Maybe he could help you. A pump shop may charge you $350 to $600 for a pump rebuild... The truck just sitting has caused the orings to just get hard and fail.
Plus rebuilding the pump may give you some additional power to move that heavy thing.
RhinoTAC
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Luckily a close friend of mine is a heavy diesel mechanic and he loves anything cummins I'm sure he can assist me
If YOU are saying that rebuilding the pump is a PITA, then it's definitely not for the newb or the faint of heart. I would happily fork over around $500 for a professional rebuild if the shop was trustworthy. I'm going to guess that a whole replacement pump would run at least $1k.
RhinoTAC
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- Troup, Texas
Got any part numbers for the pump? Cuz I found a guy locally that has a NOS for $400 or best offer
It's just a normal cummins pt pump
I have a takeoff unit that goes on a small cam that came off my personal NHC250. It is around 40 percent more power over a stock pump. You have to add a dual fuel line kit and a little more air for it to not burn the motor up
I have a takeoff unit that goes on a small cam that came off my personal NHC250. It is around 40 percent more power over a stock pump. You have to add a dual fuel line kit and a little more air for it to not burn the motor up
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Careful, depending on how old the "NOS" pump is, if the rubber parts inside are the old non LSD compatable stuff, you'll have the same issue you have now in short order.
Ok, this is lame but I've replaced all the dead light bulbs in all the light fixtures around the truck and in the dash. There were several.
All of my filters arrived in the mail while I was away for Xmas.
Ordered a new pair of surge tank hoses from Eastern since one of mine has a weep. Those have also arrived.
Got some glad hands to make air tool fittings with.
Got most of the tires to the proper air pressure.
Tomorrow, I hope to replace the fuel filter. If that goes well, I'll change the oil.
I've noticed that the truck has "Service" and "Emergency" air fittings on the front bumper. The -10 only seems to discuss the location of the air supply valves for the M816, not the M813.
(Front bumper) The Emergency air fitting has a valve right on it. The Service air fitting does not. I followed the lines but I can't seem to find supply valves for these guys. I've attached some photos.
All of my filters arrived in the mail while I was away for Xmas.
Ordered a new pair of surge tank hoses from Eastern since one of mine has a weep. Those have also arrived.
Got some glad hands to make air tool fittings with.
Got most of the tires to the proper air pressure.
Tomorrow, I hope to replace the fuel filter. If that goes well, I'll change the oil.
I've noticed that the truck has "Service" and "Emergency" air fittings on the front bumper. The -10 only seems to discuss the location of the air supply valves for the M816, not the M813.
(Front bumper) The Emergency air fitting has a valve right on it. The Service air fitting does not. I followed the lines but I can't seem to find supply valves for these guys. I've attached some photos.
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Almost forgot- I inspected the steering axle boots and they seem totally intact. How friggin' lucky is that?
I've been running the truck for 30-60 minutes each day. Sometimes I drive it around the block. Zero fluid leaks of any kind, except for that surge tank hose. The truck really does seem to be waking up after a long sleep. It idles better every day, no smoke, starts easy.
I seem to be starting off with a solid foundation. If I can just get through the routine maintenance, it'll be ready for driving. Woot!
I've been running the truck for 30-60 minutes each day. Sometimes I drive it around the block. Zero fluid leaks of any kind, except for that surge tank hose. The truck really does seem to be waking up after a long sleep. It idles better every day, no smoke, starts easy.
I seem to be starting off with a solid foundation. If I can just get through the routine maintenance, it'll be ready for driving. Woot!
Scrounger
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The front glad hands are for when the vehicle is towed. Air lines are connected to the towing vehicle, the emergency line charges the system, the service line will operate the brakes.
Only the front emergency line has a shut off valve. The service glad hand doesn’t have a shut off valve and if it has a dummy glad hand installed it should have a vent in it. If the front service glad hand doesn’t vent the brakes won’t release properly.
Only the front emergency line has a shut off valve. The service glad hand doesn’t have a shut off valve and if it has a dummy glad hand installed it should have a vent in it. If the front service glad hand doesn’t vent the brakes won’t release properly.
Ah, ok. This is very different than what I thought. So, if I want to use air tools driven by the truck's air system, I should plug in at the trailer service air brake fittings at the rear of the truck?